alpine audio setup good for price?
kinda a noob to audio but did some reviewing on some setups and was thinking about this for my 98 hatch... its 590 total.
alpine type r 6.5in 100 rms (pair) $111
alpine type r 6x9 100 rms (pair) $118
alpine pdx fx4 100x4 rms $360 ---- picked that one cause im not sure how to choose one so i just got one powerfull enough for the speakers and from the same company.
open to suggestions. currently im going to stay away from subs and kinda wana stick to coaxles for easiness and simplicity.
alpine type r 6.5in 100 rms (pair) $111
alpine type r 6x9 100 rms (pair) $118
alpine pdx fx4 100x4 rms $360 ---- picked that one cause im not sure how to choose one so i just got one powerfull enough for the speakers and from the same company.
open to suggestions. currently im going to stay away from subs and kinda wana stick to coaxles for easiness and simplicity.
Good speakers at a good price.
Very good amp at a very good price, and is just enough power for the speakers, [4x125W RMS would have been better]..
"it is better to be over-powered then underpowered"
The two problems I see are, first... the 6.5" are "over-sized" 6.5" not "standard" 6.5", the main diff. is mounting hole diameter, the "standard" 6.5" uses a 5" diameter mounting hole, [just like stock] the Alpines are 5-3/8", also stock mounting depth is 2" the Alpines are 2-3/8".
The above is easily dealt with, [and should be even if it was a standard 6.5"].
The stock door speaker housing is plastic and built into the door panel, [a very crappy speaker housing, more so with 100W speakers] they should be cut out, removing everything other then what is needed to mount the door panel to the door and the stock speaker grill to the door panel, a custom 1" or thicker, [the thicker and bigger the better] MDF speaker mounting plate should be made and attached, solidly, to the door itself, [not the door panel] and then mount the speaker to it.
Although not that hard to do, it can be time consuming to do properly, but well worth it in SQ, including bass response, and SPL.
The rears are less of a problem, although also shitty plastic speaker "housings", they are there for rear fill only.
I would not have picked 2ways, a mid-range/mid bass driver would have been better.
With what you have, I would disable the tweeters, [disconnect capacitors] wire the speakers in series for an 8ohm load and connect to the bridged rear channels of the amp for a mono rear fill, with amp gain turned down.
High frequencies, [very directional] from behind you is not a good thing.
Stereo from behind you is not a good thing.
Both the above will make for poor imaging and staging, lead to left/right bias up front, [make it hard/impossible to set system up properly]. 94
Very good amp at a very good price, and is just enough power for the speakers, [4x125W RMS would have been better]..
"it is better to be over-powered then underpowered"
The two problems I see are, first... the 6.5" are "over-sized" 6.5" not "standard" 6.5", the main diff. is mounting hole diameter, the "standard" 6.5" uses a 5" diameter mounting hole, [just like stock] the Alpines are 5-3/8", also stock mounting depth is 2" the Alpines are 2-3/8".
The above is easily dealt with, [and should be even if it was a standard 6.5"].
The stock door speaker housing is plastic and built into the door panel, [a very crappy speaker housing, more so with 100W speakers] they should be cut out, removing everything other then what is needed to mount the door panel to the door and the stock speaker grill to the door panel, a custom 1" or thicker, [the thicker and bigger the better] MDF speaker mounting plate should be made and attached, solidly, to the door itself, [not the door panel] and then mount the speaker to it.
Although not that hard to do, it can be time consuming to do properly, but well worth it in SQ, including bass response, and SPL.
The rears are less of a problem, although also shitty plastic speaker "housings", they are there for rear fill only.
I would not have picked 2ways, a mid-range/mid bass driver would have been better.
With what you have, I would disable the tweeters, [disconnect capacitors] wire the speakers in series for an 8ohm load and connect to the bridged rear channels of the amp for a mono rear fill, with amp gain turned down.
High frequencies, [very directional] from behind you is not a good thing.
Stereo from behind you is not a good thing.
Both the above will make for poor imaging and staging, lead to left/right bias up front, [make it hard/impossible to set system up properly]. 94
The problem is not so much depth, there is more then enough room for the speakers depth, about 2.5" total, the speaker housing itself is only 2" deep, cutting a hole in the back of the speaker housing will give you that extra about 1/2", the main problem is the speaker is an oversized 6.5" with a 5-3/8" mounting diameter, the stock plastic houdsing is only 5". 94
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