Almost done with install. Just a couple more questions. The alarm is a viper 5002 and the car is an 00 si.
I used the orange wire off of the main harness with an auto relay like used in suspended hatch's write up. I wired it to the clutch. I cut the blue wire and my car obviously wouldn't start. After i was finished wiring, my car started while the alarm was going off. NOT GOOD! Do I have to program the alarm so that the orange wire grounds or something? Did I use the wrong relay. I went to napa with the title of spdt 20a/30 relay. They were confused but we figured it out i guess. The pins are the same as the relay suspended used. Is it not tripping due to it being rated at too many amps? Please help

Second question is, the alarm has an internal shock sensor correct? I never installed a shock sensor and bass sets off my alarm. Is there anyway to turn down the sensitivity to this sensor?

Thank you

 

I have no good answers for your first question, but if the unit has a built in shock sensor, you would turn the adjustment **** to the left (counter-clockwise) to turn down the sensitivity.

 

From looking at the owners manual, it looks like there is an on-board shock sensor. You have to adjust it with the remote. Here's a link: http://www.directeddealers.com...t.pdf

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sniggler316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From looking at the owners manual, it looks like there is an on-board shock sensor. You have to adjust it with the remote. Here's a link: http://www.directeddealers.com...t.pdf</TD></TR></TABLE>

By golly, I think you're right...

I guess I need to brush up on these new alarms before I go telling people how to do things... LOL

 

How exactly did you connect the relay to the "clutch", [I assume you mean clutch interlock switch], what wires were connected to what pins on the relay, there are 5 of them on a SPDT relay, you would have needed 4 of them, # 85, 86, 30 and 87a

Not sure about an 00 Civic but most Honda/Acura use a blue/black lead between the clutch interlock switch and the starter relay, it supplies a ground to the starter relays coil when you close the switch, [step on clutch], however if you cut the lead and the motor no longer turns over, you have the correct lead, if the 2 ends are connected to #30 and #87a of the relay, [it makes no diff. which end is connected to which terminal] the car should now start again, [if not you have a bad relay] next connect the orange lead, [ground out when armed] to #85 or #86, [it makes no diff.] last you must connect 12V+ starter, [hot when ign. key turned to start] or 12V+ true ign., [hot is run and start] to either #85 or #86, [whichever one you didn't connect the orange to].

The above is the correct way to wire the relay, if alarm is armed and you try and start the car, the relay will energize and open the circuit and motor will not turn over. 94

 

Try this, hook up the side of the blue balck wire that shows 12v when measured to ground to 30. Hook up the other side of the blue/black wire (the one that measures 0v either way, clutch pushed in or not) to 87a. Now hook up 85 to the orange wire and loop 86 back to 30( or where the blue/black wire that shows 12v).

 

jessman, that's what i did. That looks exactly the same as what is on suspended's website


So fcm instead of the loop, i would run a wire from that 12 volt source, do you know which i should use on the em1?

 

Any true ign., [hot in run and start] will work, the ign. switch harness has a true ign.
The way shown will also work just fine, and if you want to make it real effective, change the wiring a little, put the fuel pump on #30 fuel pump dash side to 87a, and ground to chassis #87, that way if they try to bypass the relay by supplying power directly to the fuel pump, it's a dead short, nothing but sparks. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that way if they try to bypass the relay by supplying power directly to the fuel pump, it's a dead short, nothing but sparks. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>



This is why I suck *** to you all the time.

 

I'm almost positive that's the way i wired it, i guess I will have to check everything... should have checked before i put interior back in.

 

I just checked my wiring on the relay. It is exactly as shown above, except for the blue manual wire instead of the fuel pump. I armed the alarm and the checked to see if the orange wire was ground and it was. i set my alarm off and then my car starts. This is the relay i got from napa. What could my problem be?

 

That looks like the proper relay, is the center pin #87a and the top pin, [left] #87?

I am not sure I understand, "It is exactly as shown above, except for the blue manual wire instead of the fuel pump." please explain. 94

 

I think that is what he's getting at. He just needs to open the circuit when the alarm is armed. It could be a normally open relay.

 

If you wire it up according to that diagram, then it matters VERY MUCH which side goes to 87a and which to 30.

Sounds like you have 87a and 30 backwards so you aren't getting power to 86 from the loop.

Wire up the switch side of the cut clutch wire to 87a. 30 needs to be connected to the side that disappears into the dash. The orange wire must be connected to 85, and 86 must be looped to 30.

 

i mean instead of a fuel pump wire being spliced into i'm using the clutch's blue wire. The pin that is opposite orientation is 87. here is the link http://www.dmauto.com/web/dmau...15002/#

 

suspended, i just checked again, clutch from plug goes to 87a, and clutch from dash goes to 30. here is a pic of the side of the relay. maybe this will shed some light on my problem
there is a thin red line connecting 87a, 30 to 85, 86, can't really see it.

 

LOL, I see your problem, the clutch interlock switch switched a ground not power, the diagram withe the "loop" will not work, no matter where you connect the loop.

Connect one of the cut ends to #30 the other cut end to 87a, orange goes to #85 then find a true ign. source, [black/yellow on ign. harness will work] and connect to #86

The diagram is for the fuel pump power line, it has 12V+ on it from the PGM-FI Main Relay, that's why you can "loop" the power from #30 to #86, not so if your cutting the clutch interlock lead, as I said it is a ground. 94

 

The line from 30 to 87 or 87a is inside the relay and the dashed line is showing what the coil between 85 and 86 is effecting. That coil is an electromagnet, when you apply power to 85 and a ground to 86 it creates a magnetic field that pulls the contact that connects 30 to 87a (when not powered) to 87 (when powered).....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarbonizedDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The line from 30 to 87 or 87a is inside the relay and the dashed line is showing what the coil between 85 and 86 is effecting. That coil is an electromagnet, when you apply power to 85 and a ground to 86 it creates a magnetic field that pulls the contact that connects 30 to 87a (when not powered) to 87 (when powered)..... </TD></TR></TABLE> And your point is? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And your point is? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95civicdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
there is a thin red line connecting 87a, 30 to 85, 86, can't really see it.</TD></TR></TABLE>