Advice on amp
Alright so I have two 10' Kicker CompVR 07CVR104 and I am trying to decide what is a good amp to go with and after that deciding how I should wire it up to get the best sound out of these subs.
Get a mono subwoofer amplifier. It will need to be above 800 watts RMS @ a 4 ohm load for sound quality and reliability.
.
A new amp to run these will be above $400. Be weary of the amps which have rated "max" output instead of "RMS" or "continuous" power. There are a lot of good brands out there. Try to find a used amp IMO. There are other ways to do this setup but they are not as good IMO.
. A new amp to run these will be above $400. Be weary of the amps which have rated "max" output instead of "RMS" or "continuous" power. There are a lot of good brands out there. Try to find a used amp IMO. There are other ways to do this setup but they are not as good IMO.
That depends on your budget. Some options, some are slightly under powered to keep costs low, but there are cheaper amps I DID NOT link you to that usually are built with less quality control and parts :
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17535
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...18435
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...18814
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17271
And they just keep getting more expensive from there. I would buy the Alpine.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17535
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...18435
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...18814
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17271
And they just keep getting more expensive from there. I would buy the Alpine.
Forgot to mention something. One reason the amp is expensive is because your subs can either be wired to get a 1 or 4 ohm load. At 4 ohms amps produce about half the power it is capable of. Most amps don't do 1 ohm and they have more distortion. If your subs we're dvc 2 ohm you could wire them at a 2 ohm load. Most amps nearly double their power when the ohm load is halved. So, you could buy a less expensive amp and it would work fine like this : http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...20089 or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...16918 . But to do that you would have to exchange/trade you subs for the 2 ohm dvc versions.
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Stick with the DVC 4 ohms you have, wire them series/parallel, Re: schmiddr2
link.
I also agree with schmiddr2 that the Alpine PDX-1.1000... http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17271 is the best amp of any linked or mentioned here.
Do not get an amp that will require you to wire the subs parallel/parallel, [1 ohm load] SQ will suck amp will run hot and have a high THD %.
The SQ of your sub bass will depend a lot on the sub cabinet you install the subs in, for clean, tight and accurate sub bass response, use a sealed box, .8 cuft to 3 cuft per driver, [gross internal volume], the smaller the box, the more "punch", the bigger the box, the better the SQ and a lower F3 point, keeping in mind the bigger the box the lower the power handling, [at 3 cuft per driver the power handing is only 300W continuous per driver.
I have installed those drivers in a 2.5 cuft box, [two CVR104s] useing a JL Audio 1000/1 with very good results, I built the box using 3/4" and 1" MDF, [1" baffle, sides, center brace and internal bracing] the rest of the box was 3/4", [top, bottom and back] net internal volume, [after bracing] was 2.5 cuft.
At least one angled surface is always a good idea.
The MDF was sealed using fiberglass resin, [inside] all inside seams were also siliconed to insure airtight seal.
Kicker recommends 50% fill, [spun Dacron or poly-fill will work] do not use fiberglass insulation.
I like to use cloth automotive carpet underlay glued to all internal surfaces except the baffle.
The more solidly the box is mounted in the car, the better it will sound.
94
link.
I also agree with schmiddr2 that the Alpine PDX-1.1000... http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17271 is the best amp of any linked or mentioned here.
Do not get an amp that will require you to wire the subs parallel/parallel, [1 ohm load] SQ will suck amp will run hot and have a high THD %.
The SQ of your sub bass will depend a lot on the sub cabinet you install the subs in, for clean, tight and accurate sub bass response, use a sealed box, .8 cuft to 3 cuft per driver, [gross internal volume], the smaller the box, the more "punch", the bigger the box, the better the SQ and a lower F3 point, keeping in mind the bigger the box the lower the power handling, [at 3 cuft per driver the power handing is only 300W continuous per driver.
I have installed those drivers in a 2.5 cuft box, [two CVR104s] useing a JL Audio 1000/1 with very good results, I built the box using 3/4" and 1" MDF, [1" baffle, sides, center brace and internal bracing] the rest of the box was 3/4", [top, bottom and back] net internal volume, [after bracing] was 2.5 cuft.
At least one angled surface is always a good idea.
The MDF was sealed using fiberglass resin, [inside] all inside seams were also siliconed to insure airtight seal.
Kicker recommends 50% fill, [spun Dacron or poly-fill will work] do not use fiberglass insulation.
I like to use cloth automotive carpet underlay glued to all internal surfaces except the baffle.
The more solidly the box is mounted in the car, the better it will sound.
94
What you guys think about these amps?
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17788
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...19352
Any good?
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17788
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...19352
Any good?
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