i googled adio forums, and found a couple but they move wayyy to slow, does anyone know of a good one?

 

what is adio? If your looking at a site try 12 volt.com or sit back here and watch or ask questions that you need answered.

 

i ttry to ask question in here, since its an *audio forum, but ppl still tell me to go check out *audio forums..
just need some input on what amp would be best for 2 10" alpine type-r's..
as well as what box would be best for them

 

Well did you put it in the wrong section? Like in the civic section or the all motor section? Well what kind of car is this going into? Your enclosure depends on the style of music you like-not all the time thou, how much room that you have. Ported or vented enclosure require more airspace which in turns require more room then a sealed enclosure. Even thou sealed could be as large as a vented most of the time they don't have to be or need to. Your set up need to have 1000rms to run, Since there 500 rms a peice. http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/p...1042D

Your enclosure should be .6-1.26 cf. This would be a sealed enclosure. The size depends on how much room you have in your trunk

 

Well as they are 500W, [continuous] 1500W, [peak] and you have 2 of them you will need an amp that will make 1000W RMS into 4 ohms, [SWR-1042D] or one that makes 1000W RMS into 2 ohms, [SWR-1022D] there are a number of good amps that will do that.

The JL Audio 1000/1 will work on either the 1042 or the 1022... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=221

as will the Alpine PDX-1.1000... http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/p....1000

or the Alpine MRD-M1005 will just work on the SWR-1022Ds... http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/p...M1005

The MTX TA92001 will work for the SWR-1042Ds... http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/pr...1.cfm

and the MTX TA81001 will work on the SWR-1022Ds

There are a few more good amps that would work, and just a chit load of junk that I would not wast money on for those subs.

As for a cabinet for the subs, sealed and vented box recommendations, [optimum] are in the owners manual... http://www.alpine-usa.com/imag...D.pdf 94

 

hmm ya most of that went way over my head. i now nothing about amps, (2ohms/4ohms/RMS... im clueless.

So can you just suggest a the best amp for it.. that is still in the pice range of $250ish..
also would it be better/safer to have a 1200w amp going to both 10's or a 600w amp bridged?

 

can someone explain all the RMS, ohms stuff to me, or have a link on how to read a amp

 

another forum suggested this amp for my subs. is this a good one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-NEW-H...wItem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another forum suggested this amp for my subs. is this a good one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-NEW-H...wItem</TD></TR></TABLE>Not in my opinion.

What is the model of your subs, SWR-1042D or SWR-1022D, the first is a DVC, [dual voice coil] 4 ohm, [it has two 4 ohm voice coils] the 1022D has two 2 ohm voice coils.
Ohms is a measurement of resistance, when you wire two 4 ohm VCs in series you have an 8 ohm load, two 2 ohm VCs would be 4 ohm, [so you double the resistance] if you wire the same 4 ohm VCs is parallel you would end up with a 2 ohm load, and a 1 ohm load with 2 ohm VCs, [so half the load], that is why it is important to know if you have DVC 4 ohm or DVC 2 ohm subs, it will determine how the VCs and the 2 subs would be wired to get a "usable" final load, [impedance/ohms] IMO the best way to wire them would be "series/parallel" where the VCs are wired in series and the 2 subs wired in parallel, with the DVC 4 ohm subs you would end up with a 4 ohm load, with the DVC 2 ohm subs you will end up with a 2 ohm load.

What the final load is will determine what amp you need, and as I said, with the JL 1000/1 or the Alpine PDX-1.1000 will work for either sub, but most other amps will double their output when you half the load, EG; an amp that makes 500W RMS, [RMS= continuous output] into a 4 ohm load will make 1000W RMS into a 2 ohm load, even 2000W RMS into a 1 ohm load, like the Hifonics, it is 450W into 4 ohms, 900W into 2 ohms an 1200W into 1 ohm, but when you half the load you lose SQ, [linearity, damping] and the amps THD %, [total harmonic distortion] goes up, all bad things.
BTW, expect to pay between $0.50 to $1.00 per watt retail, [into 4 ohms] for a good amp, [unless you can find something used] any less and it is chit. 94

 

good god, $1 per watt is a tadd over my budget.. i really dont have money to be throwing in to audio, my money pit is my motor, i cant offord anyother expensive hobbies, so as much as i would like to get a nice quality amp like JL i cant afford it.. so please help me fnd the best amp possible for my setup under $300 and my subs are 4 ohm...

 

Well there are 2 ways you can go, the recommended RMS wattage for the subs is 200W-500W, you could find a 400W-500W RMS into 4/2 ohms mono block sub amp... http://search.ebay.com/search/...o%3D1 and stay within your budget, and maybe get a second one later, [build box with 2 chambers] or just live with less output from your subs, or.....
You could get 2 chit 500W RMS into 2 ohms mono block sub amps, I have no recommendations for chit amps, but there are a lot of them out there. 94

 

Look at the Lanzar Opti Drive amps, in my opinion they aren't half bad for the money if you need something on the cheap. Also I have heard that Type R's actually handle very well with a little more power than recommended, like 600 watts, and still stay stable.

 

you think that jl 500/1 would be stronger than this one&gt; http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-NEW-H...wItem\
and what if i just bought to of these^

 

what do you think of this amp
LINK FIXED! http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/3801


Modified by vtaaakkkk!!! at 11:33 PM 12/6/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think that jl 500/1 would be stronger than this one&gt; http://cgi.ebay.com/2006-NEW-H...wItem\
and what if i just bought to of these^
</TD></TR></TABLE> at 4 ohms yes, the 500/1 is 500W RMS the Hifonics is 450W, but the Hifonics does not have a "regulated" output so into 2 ohms it is 900W and into 1 ohm it is 1200W, you could wire the VCs of each speaker in parallel, [two 4 ohm VCs wired in parallel is a final load of 2 ohms then wire the 2 subs in parallel for a final load of 1 ohm, it would allow the Hifonics to make 1200W, although SQ would suck, but it would work.
For the amp to get enough current to make 1200 W, you will need to run a 2ga power cable, use a 2ga ground and "beef up", [add] the batt. to chassis ground with a 2ga ground, otherwise you will "starve" the amp of current, it will "clip" continuously when cranked up and burn the subs voice coils, destroying the subs.
Cost you more in the end, there is a reason they say you get what you pay for.

Your other link, [ikesound] will not load. 94

 

JL 500/1 is your best bet

 

link fixed http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/3801

And FCM if you have some time, please look at the refurbished amps at ikesound. for around $250-300.. tell me what you think would be the best amp for my setup/price range.

 

omg, man save your cash before you blow two nice subs. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1409124&page=9 . There a used ppi, I used these amps back in the day and there great. And for 200 for it. This is your best bet.

 

ADIO? like the shoes?

 

[...]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b-h-b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...</TD></TR></TABLE> ya it is, its just above my left eye brow. thanks for the imput buy the way..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b-h-b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...</TD></TR></TABLE>

What a way to start a new membership and still being a trail user. What does your post have to do with helping the op? Its best to be silent and thought a fool, then to open your mouth and remove all doubt.


OP. don't waste your time with that site. Did you read the return policy?
Defective items that are returned 14 days after receipt date may be repaired or replaced at Ikesound's discretion (*** Except Alpine products, which are only repaired***.) The customer will need to send $39.00 return fee with the return. The $39.00 return fee is a non-refundable service fee and will not be part of any credit issued.

Why should you have to pay if the product fails under warrenty? After 14 days too

 

Sorry, there is nothing there, in your price range, I would recommend, and never a refurb, stick with the JL Audio 500/1 on eBay, at least that way you have a good amp and you can upgrade by getting another one latter. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sorry, there is nothing there, in your price range, I would recommend, and never a refurb, stick with the JL Audio 500/1 on eBay, at least that way you have a good amp and you can upgrade by getting another one latter. 94</TD></TR></TABLE> urrgghhh!!! ok didnt want to spend that much, but if you really think that the way to go then i'll get it. thanks for your help, i can tell you know about 10000000x more than the shops ive been going too

what are ythe pro/cons of having 2 jl500/1 over 1 JL1000/1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtaaakkkk!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what are ythe pro/cons of having 2 jl500/1 over 1 JL1000/1?</TD></TR></TABLE>
500/1 pros
1- Two power supplies.
2- Buy one now buy another latter
500/1 cons
1- You need two of them, to fully power your subs, although it will work
2- The cost of 2 amps
3- The cost of wiring for 2 amps, although you could just get 2ga power cable right away

1000/1 pros
1- You will have the RMS wattage you need right away
1000/1 cons
1- There are none, unless you count the extra expense right away. 94