I felt the same way. I didn't want any block-off plates so the amber clock was a must. Really excited to still have these mats.

This weekend I decided to paint some additional parts on the car. The front bumper didn't match. Not sure why and cannot recall back when I painted the car. Went over the front lip, bumper, hood, and roof. The color matches is very good and the clear laid down really smooth.

 

I've been busy the past few months sourcing parts, wrenching, and enjoying this car. I did my first track day with the car, took it up to the Dragon for an event, and enjoyed the car. I wanted to update some photos.

I have these parts that I pulled off the car. Good condition but not my first choice. I've tossed them on the shelf. Is anyone interested in these? Not even sure what they are worth.



I picked up a new VC and spark plug cover from ICB.



Next up was to address the header. It is a Maxim Works header that has seen its better days. I used a few things to try and bring it back with no luck. I ended up sanding and polishing. It turned out great.

The main issue is the tarnishing you'll see after polishing. Not the discoloration from heat. It seems like something on the metal baked on after heat cycles. Can't seem to figure that out. I cleaned the header really well with alcohol after.

I want to pull it back out and polish it again. Any tips on how to prevent this corrosion-looking stuff?

Here is the before. I debated just buying a new header...






Here is the after! Few hours of hard work paid off.




Here is the header and VC installed.




If you look at this photo, you can see the corrosion stuff on the header. This showed up after a couple of heat cycles. Not sure what it could be?



I'll come back and update more here soon.

 

Its possible its just the steel itself. I have a Toda header I purchased brand new, wiped for install and after 6 years its started getting similar spots in the same area on the primaries. You could try wiping it down with Ospho or Lysol toilet bowl cleaner to remove it again, but its possible itll come back. Either way that is a significant transformation and now that the hard work is done, I imagine keeping it up wont be nearly as bad.

 

Have you considered coating it? understand if you prefer the stainless look though.

 

Not sure how close to original stock/OEM you're wanting on that valve cover, but that's not an OEM ITR VC. Looks more like a B16B CTR VC, or a re-powdercoated B16A VC. ITR was the same as the GSR but red (DOHC larger than VTEC, and no H logo, and said HONDA MOTOR COMPANY).

Also if you're interested in some nice stainless acorn nuts that won't mar up the polished grommets and the spark plug cover, Belmetric.com has 10mm polished stainless acorn nuts with a captured washer attached, so when you're tightening the nut, it's turning against the washer and not on the grommet or spark plug cover.

 

I took a few pictures of this at the VW event in Fontana in April.

Very cool car.

 

Thank you! That was such a cool event. I'll be up there again next year with my R and the wife is bringing her newly acquired GTI 40th anv.

I understand what you are saying. I don't have a USDM b18c5 in this car. This is the JDM 98+ spec b18c with the 4.7 final drive. This being the JDM VC. ICB listed this VC as the JDM B18c which is also I think the b16b VC? I could only be somewhat accurate on this. My memory isn't as good as it used to be haha. The USDM cs JDM pic listed below. I decided to keep the JDM VC to show that it is a swap and not the original motor.

Thanks for the tip on the VC acorn nuts. I did switch them to stainless but I like the idea of the ones you recommended. I'll check those out and order them up!



I do like the stainless look even though coating it could help for heat and appearance.

I tried the Ospho, hearing nothing but good things about that stuff. I've not had much results from it. You're probably right though. Over time the heat cycles have probably just caused impurities to be exposed. Maybe I can chrome plate it? haha

 

After swapping in the B18C, we performed routine maintenance tasks like changing the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Despite the low mileage, the timing belt had been in use for more than seven years, so I deemed it necessary to replace it along with the tensioner for added confidence at the track. Additionally, I purchased a new air conditioning vent to replace the old and worn-out one.

 

Bracket in your dash still intact where those screws go in behind the defroster and hazard switches? The plastic broke inside my dashboard a few years back, so I ended up having to fab an aluminum bracket to hold the little square metal speed nut thingies, for those screws to go into. Nice and rigid now, at least until the pieces on the sides of the opening break, that the aluminum bracket is attached to.

 

sweet build!!

 

Thankfully, it's still solid! Good thinking making a little bracket to hold it in place.

Thank you!

 

I've been back and forth on exhaust systems. The car has a T1r b pipe and OEM ITR muffler. I also run a Fujitsubo RM-01A axle back. The Fujitsubo is very loud on the highway with the 4.7 final drive. Here in GA, highway speeds are 75+ with 80-ish cruising speed. I was able to source a Spoon Street axle back. I like the look of the exhaust a lot. Despite never hearing one in person, I jumped on this setup and am thankful I did. It seems like it lands perfectly between the OEM muffler and the Fujitsubo. No drone, but it still has some noise to enjoy.

I added a start-up clip. Not sure how to embed that video?



I've also been researching some info on the EVAP. When we first did the B18C swap, all USDM parts were used as needed to pass emissions. Now the car is 25 years old, I no longer need to do emissions and want to run the JDM ECU full-time. The previous owner lost or sold the USDM ECU. My only choice is JDM now, which is fine. That is preferred. The issue is, that the evap solenoid no longer gets its signal from the JDM ecu to purge the fumes into the intake. These hot days, the car has gotten smelly. I've been looking into the options I have.
1. remove all the usdm stuff and swap over to JDM. It's not really an option since these items are getting harder and harder to source in good condition.
2. run the USDM evap hose directly into the intake manifold, bypassing the solenoid to remove the fumes. Research seems to show, JDM system is set up like this. When I tried this route, the car would not want to start or stay running.
3. Remove the evap system. I don't want to do this since I'm trying to avoid the gas smell.
4. This option might be my best bet. I have a P28 with a Hondata S300. I'm thinking about getting the car tuned, and the P28, being a US ECU, should have the needed signal to activate the evap purge and solve my problem.

Thoughts?

 

what about full-on standalone tuned Hondata? Is that a possibility? I don't even know if they make full-on standalone systems like MegaSquirt for Miatas, etc.

 

Given the OEM+ness of your build, I'd look into a Link G4 Plugin.

 

Since I already have the P28 with Hondata I am going to try this route first. Get the car dyno tuned and see how all that goes. James at Ebtec is who I am going to use.

 

Any updates? Still own this?