New to Honda-tech, names colin, 22 from Nova Scotia, Canada.
Crane operator is my trade so I don't usually get much time after work to work on my car as much as I'd like to. Also getting parts shipped is slow as f*!

I've owned this 99 civic si(Canadian) for 2 years. Had a d16y8 and 160xxxkms when I bought it for $4000. Alberta car


Super clean.. The car had some mods from the previous owner.. JDM yellow fog lights, AEM cold air intake 8000k hids with some sort of clear eBay headlight bucket, all poorly installed.

It also had/still has an Alpine IDA x200 iPod deck and I love it.

Came with pioneer 6 inch speakers all around, a 900watt Fosgate amplifier powering a 12" type R sub in a bassworks box. It's a great system

The for sale ad for the car did not mention any of these mods, nor does the price reflect them IMO. I bought it right away

Got the car home from halifax, washed it, removed the Honda emblem from the grill (are they always removable like this?) and snapped some pics.





I got to use they wireless car/truck hoists at my fathers work.. Just wanted to point out they are awesome..

 

I drove my civic like this for about a year. The d16y8 worked perfectly burned no oil. I wanted to get some wheels and suspension upgrades.. I ended up buying some used Skunk2 pro-s ii adjustable coil overs and some 15mm wheel spacers for the rear.. For wheels I got some Stance emotion (work reps)15x8 +25 offset gold wheels. I experiented with different ride heights and spring stiffness. Your car rides like a skid steer on these coilovers no matter what hight so I lowered them all the way.

I like the way it looks ..


And yes that is a giant hole in my foglight. I used to break them all the time.. I covered them with 3M paint protective film.. They still break but the film holds them togther lol!
Probly cause they are eBay lights.

 

wheres ur ctr engine? I would like to see a pic of that...

Car looks clean man, nice job

 

I drove my little d16 low and slow all over the province and got a little bored of it. I decided it was time to do a swap but I couldn't decide what to drop in.. It was up between the b18c5 or b16b .. I'm still not quite sure what made me choose the b16.. But I did and it's in there.




The swap went well, right off the bat I bought the following:

New Rear t mount from Honda dealer
New integra axels
New hasport shift linkage
New pulsation damper nut <$65 did I get ripped off/do I need this?
New a'pexi ws2 cat back
New yonkana 4-1 stainless header
People: jdm power chamber (whale *****)
Used ctr trans torque mount
New yonkana obd1 conversion
I plan to buy a type r cluster when a good price pops up.

I have pictures of all the work but not on my phone unfortunatly. I will update later...

Here it is with the front clip back on. I relocated the battery to the trunk and the fuse box to the glove compartment

The ws2 cat back bolts up perfectly to stock hangers, my stock exhaust hung much lower. Here's a pic comparing the 2..

Sexy a'pexi

I bought a obd1 p28 ecu and had it tuned with hondata for a b16 basemap. Chipped ecu's are new to me but I had it done anyway. The engine started up right away but was running poorly.. In limp mode and showing about 10 CELs.
I did not know where to start because I didn't know if this ecu was any good..

The car sat in my shop for the winter, And I got motivated to get it going for summer.. I immediately searched and bought a pct obd2 ek9 ecu.

With a boost the car started the other day.. It ran strong, idled fast compared to sluggish like before and seems to rev smoothly (over 3500 unlike before)

It still has some type of miss like a dead sparkplug, I know I don't have the right spark plugs in it, last week I ordered 4 NGK PFR7G-11s, those MF's are expensive!! 23 bucks a piece!

I'm yet to check the timing on the distributor but the cams are timed, I will try the new plugs Tuesday and hope to see a difference.

 

I forgot to mention how terrible the fitment of that cheap header is. I don't hve a picture of it on my phone but it's like 1 inch clearance off the ground. Until I can buy the one this engine deserves (suggestions) I think I will buy a downpipe for my stock ctr header ( it was cut).

 

cant really help ya with the clearance problem, maybe ur car is just too low? As for the tune on the ecu, Id take it to someone who could tune it for u. the car looks good and the swap looks awesome, it deserves a good tune.

What codes did u pull btw?

 

So I finally got the old shop wired up to run it off a genset. And I finally got these



I had my valve cover off checking valve clearances, and using gasket remover to strip the valve cover. I only hit it once with the spray and wanted to use it so I try the plugs and pull some codes.
That's why my valve cover looks like hell lol
So the engine started up great, the old plugs were toast.. Seemed to idle perfectly, I planned to check the ignition timing but my light stopped working.

Despite a strong idle the car hesitates bad on throttle and will bog out completly with 3/4 throttle. I noticed after warming up the idle was searching a bit.

I have a short video of the crappy idle. I can post it if it'll help

I jumped the service mode connector and started the engine to pull the following codes:
CEL 8
CEL 20
I also pulled 2 ABS codes that I forget now. Don't like the sounds of that?? The abs module is laying on the passenger side floor does that affect it?

Should I open up the dizzy and voltage test the tdc?
Any suggestions appreciated.

 

Bump

 

Not getting much help from anyone with this thread. Did I post it where It doesn't belong or what?

Anyway I was looking my engine wiring over and I noticed the plugs for my TPS sensor and my MAP sensor were the same, I switched them..

I no longer have a boggy throttle or any weird intake noises, also both CELs are gone.. Still some what concerned by my abs codes.

That backwards plug was keeping my car from running for 4 months

I'm painting my valve cover wrinkle red this weekend and hopefully get the car out to make sure vtec womps.
Can someone tell me what to do with my vtec oil pressure switch plug? It's just hanging now,.. Is my vtec going to work ? Why doesn't my vtec soL. Have one?

 

Connect it to the oil pressure switch (does it even have the pressure switch?)...some vtec motors just have the solenoid. On my b16b I have the plug connected to the pressure switch using a single cam solenoid. If the motor doesnt have the switch, then I would assume the pct ecu wouldn't look for it.

 

Drive the car, vtec doesn't engage, I do have a single cam solenoid but it is different. I wouldn't think the pct would look for it either

 

Is your vtec solenoid from a z6? I'm confused why my vtec won't engage with the vtec solenoid plugged in, there is no pressure switch.

I see people doing the vtec bypass trick.. But Like JuggerNaut said my pct shouldn't look for an oil pressure switch.

Has anyone wired a b16b with an ej8/ex harness that can give me a hint ? Lol


Also, when test driving the car, I thought I could almost hear vtec engage. But it was quiet enough that I don't even believe it did engage.. It's fairly loud correct?

 

JDM ecu's doesn't look for the switch. I'd say check your ecu and vtec solenoid. Why didn't you use the CTR solenoid? Good luck though. I want a 99/00 ex with a B-series R swap. I'm jealy.

 

Thanks, I am using the ctr solenoid. I will test it today

 

Upon closer inspection, my CEL 8 a d CEL 20 are still on. I haven't reset the ecu yet. That TDC code is what's messing up my vtec. Hope my distributors not toast

 

Pic bump

 

Just got in from a 14 hour day of working on the project. It's finally done !!! (Kind of) my buddy and I traced all my tdc, vtec sol., ckp and cky wires doing continuity tests because my tdc sensor tested good, same with grounds. I was starting to think my ecu was bad but I unpinned and replaced my tdc sensor with the one from my y8 dizzy. It worked perfectly, no more codes and lots of vtec.

I spent the whole day putting interior pieces back together and stereo components.
I drove the car 30 kms today in total I'm very pleased so far, cruises along great and gets down fast!
My yonaka header is going to have to get chopped or removed all together because its stupid low, It scrapes if I corner too fast..... Here's a pic



I was going to get my exhaust leak fixed before I really tried out the ctr but I couldn't resist.. Here's a quick fly by
http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...5E72B3F0DF.mp4
Little different than the SOHC...

 

That's a sweet creeper, The Bone, I got to lay on one once, didn't want to get back up

CEL 20 isn't for vtec, it's for the ELD.

Here's the scoop on that. USDM and JDM cars have an ELD in the underhood fuse box and the corresponding ECU looks for it. '96 - '00 Canadian Civics don't have an ELD, and a Canadian ECU wont look for it. A Canadian Civic alternator also lacks the 4th pin on the alternator that's tied in to the ELD.

You can either run a chipped ECU with the ELD disabled (OBD1 vehicles all had an ELD, so all OBD1 ECUs look for it) Or you can buy a USDM underhood fuse box and run the extra wires for the ELD.

 

Thanks EG8, nice info to know. I'm running the jdm alternator with the d16y8 harness.. When I replaced my tdc sensor and that CEL went away so did the ELD.

 

Is anyone able to see that photobucket video I uploaded ? What's the best way to upload videos on here?

 

Yes.

Upload to youtube and the copy and paste the URL into your post, youtube videos embed automatically.

 

Yea it's a great creeper. Comfy as hell, but it's so high that you have to jack your car that much higher. I'd like to have a low pro creeper !

 

Here is my to do list for the week after next, I fly to British Columbia tonight.
-bad header leak(I can't seem to get this mother to stop leaking. It blows right out the bottom between cyl 4 and 3. This header has to go.
-I've got a shake in the front end when accelerating in 2nd gear. Axels ? I got GSR axels from napa. Maybe a balance weight is busted up already.
-paint valve cover


I want to get bi-xenons to replace my single beam HIDs. They are incredibly dim and dangerous at night. Gunna do a search for projector housings.
Here's a quick look at my abs codes. Mind you this is with a p2t ecu so the software would recognize it. So ignore the other codes.

Does that look like a relay issue. The abs doesn't seem to act up in any way.

Thanks

 

I have a low profile creeper, you're not missing much, the wheels get caught on everything.

A lot of times aftermarket axles will do that, sometimes you need to go through 4 or 5 of them to get a good one. If you can get used OEM axles that's a pretty safe bet.

Stupid question, but when you did the swap did you use ABS axles? Also, did you check to make sure there's no dirt or debris on the wheel sensors? Was it throwing ABS codes before the swap?

 

Post some better fly bys. That VTEC. On YT though.