i have a jdm b20z that runs awsome. its stock with a fidanza flywheel thats all. my best time at the track was a 15.3. with that said i was thinking about building a lsvtec. I already have the head the head is a b16brian crower retainers fully built with s2 duel spring s2 high compression valves ferra bronze valve guides honda valve seals brian crower retainers, just need my s2 turner 3 cams. I have a ls block that i was gonna use b16 pistons itr oil pump stock rods and crank and all arp bolts. I was wanting to know if i fully built my b20 head and put arp rod bolts in it if it would be a quicker motor than the lsv. I love the torque of the b20 but i just want more power. Thanks

 

Why don't you build the b20 block and put the b16 head on?

 

X2

 

because the cylinder walls are thin and i want what ever i do to last a while

 

because the cylinder walls are thin and i want what ever i do to last a while i like to get on it alot lol

 

How are they thin you said it was stock

 

if you wanted to last I wouldn't be tracking it.& Thin? Umm you on a 86mm bore or what lol XD what do you really want to from your motor ? You should ask your self ,just doesn't seem like you did research before you made this thread , get what I'm saying

 

between the cylinders theres less meat and that makes it easier to crack. The biggest reason i dont really wanna build the b20 is because the motor only has 41xxx miles and i dont wanna tare up a good running motor. If i built the ls vtec then i was gonna use the b20 as a back up. right now ive beat gsr and s2000 with the b20. Ive never had a ls vtec. so dont know if i would be better with the b20 with a built head or a lsv thanks by the way i have a 98 itr tranny

 

anyone know which motor is gonna be quicker b20 with built head or a lsv built. thanks

 

in before the stoning starts lol and there is nor replacement for displacement you might wanna take a look at the all the b20vtec build threads on this forum

 

Already tried telling him this..but he obviously doesn't want to listen

 

yea they never do lol

 

my thin cylinder walls are holding up just fine on my b20vtec

 

Lol..he said it was to thin..XD

 

The stock B20 walls are definitely not too thin for what you are looking to use it for, the absolute worst b series misconception in my eyes. As far as what motor would be faster, just think of this, what is more powerful, a fully built high compression 1.8 liter or a fully built high comp 2 liter? You do the math and the answer should become crystal clear. I currently am building a high comp ls/v and I wish I would have started with a 2 liter for base. That head you put together on a stock bore B20 block, 12.5:1 with matching forged rods, will be a night and day difference from the non vtec B20 you currently run..

 

Thanks for the replys i always thought the stock sleeves would be fine but all of my friends said the cylinder walls was thinner and was more easier to crack. my friend had a b20 stock for 3 years and the number 3 piston wall had a very small crack in it and thats why hes sayin that but anyways if i built a b20vtec how would i let the crank relieve the pressure, thanks

 

None of your 17 year old friends know what they're talking about. 2+ years here on a B20Vtec without a single problem. Go do a lot of reading on how to put together a reliable B20 and report back.

Look up Bam Bam's thread.

 

what is your b20 vtec setup? Can you tell me what the purpose of a oil catch can is, is it to let your motor breath ?

 

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna take the advice and build the b20 vtec I've looked for pistons and can't find any pr3 pistons in a 84mm what piston do most people go with. I was wanting to put a vtec piston in so the valve cuts would be right. I want to run a type r cam or some skunk 2 turner series cams. Also if I drill a hole in the block like th 90-95 blocks have for the crank to breath will it work the same thanks

 

Good..you won't find an OEM Vtec piston that size you'll have to go with RS or something forged..and for the catch can it would be easier for you to put ports off the valve cover

 

I may be wrong but the rs pistons will fit on the stock rods right. Another question lol my motor only has around 41 xxx miles when I change the pistons should I change the rod bearing if I use the stock rods and should I put new crank bearings in it. I will use arp rod bolts I ve he'd you have to bore the big end to use the arp rod bolts can you tell me if that's true and if so exaclty what needs to be done thanks

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ghlight=BamBam
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ec+STD+Sleeves

bchapm Did you read these threads at all,the only thing that cracks STD B20 sleeves is poor engine building,wrong combination of parts and bad tuning and running **** fuel.

 

Yeah, I am still waiting for my "thin" sleeves to crack.

<rollseyes>

B20V any day over an LSV in my opinion.

 

Do some research man, because your "boiiz" said it has thin cylinder walls, you will listen? Look up some of the many successful B20/v builds and you will realize this.

 

lol thats what she said! j/k

as long as the tune is good the b20 is fine. my high compression b20 with the rs pistons ran perfect. i took it out after 17k miles to sell the car and i kept the engine. the rs pistons did fit on the ls/b20 rods. also after you put in the arp replacement rod studs, have the big end honed out, they can very slightly distort the rod roundness

food for thought, im going to do an lsvtec instead of a b20 vtec to save some gas mpg with the slightly smaller displacement because im crazy.

there are sooo many simple and very effective b20vtec setups most using the rs machines itr knockoff pistons, vtec heads and moderate cams to make 200+ whp. with a good tune and the right supporting parts 200 is attainable even with the itr/ctr cams from what my research has shown