So i'm going to ask this question and i know a lot of you are going to say READ, but i have. The info i'm finding is not very helpful and its a lot of biased opinions and people who don't really know what they're talking about so i'm looking for advice from someone or people who are KNOWLEDGEABLE with these motors and has experience.

So.
I have a 90 Integra (DA) with the stock B18a1 that i'm restoring. Engine has roughly 300k on it and is pretty tired. I picked up a JDM B16a (1st gen obd0) the other day so i now have a complete B18a1, B16a, and an extra block for the B16. I would wanna reuse the tranny in my teg which is the S1 cable tranny and only has 60k or so on it.

Question is, which is the best route to go for performance AND longevity. Just use the full B16a or make an LS/VTEC with the B18 block. I would like to just have some added performance over the stock b18a1. Not building a super engine. Also i've heard a lot of bad things about ls/vtec's going poof after 50k or so miles. Plus imo i think if the block is designed for the head, use it properly. BUT, i would like a few opinions, and as far as my understanding, the only advantage the b18 block has over the b16 is added displacement and torque.

So as stated, ive read, but would like a few helpful hints from someone who is, sort of say, a pro. Im new to this and this is my first Honda/Acura im restoring.

 

even if the displacement is the only advantage, its HUGE.

ls/vtec can last a long time, just as good as stock, if built properly.

 

50k is very relative too. 50,000 insterstate miles at a steady rpm and you're probably ok. 50,000 track miles and not changing the oil, it's toast. A well done ls/vtec will last, however to do it right costs money.

 

I understand there's alot of relativity to the question. Every scenario is different. I'm guessing i can expect gains in performance from either the b16a or ls/vtec over the stock b18a1?

 

before slaping the vtec head onto the b18 block, please put new rings,bearings and a rehone to freshen it up!!!!! Do you really want to do a lsvtec knowing the block has 300,000 miles already??

 

Yes but that LS transmission will not be optimal for performance with either engine. Better than with the B18b yes but not optimal.

 

True. but in 5th gear at 70mph im pushing 3800-4k rpms so im suspecting i already have a jdm s1 tranny.
now b16a with b16 tranny? would that have better performance then stock b18a1 and tranny or ls/vtec with stock ls tranny?

 

yes the B16 would because when shifting the next gear would still fall into the meat of the VTEC powerband, the LS transmission, not so much.

 

Since you are not shooting for a fantastic ultra performer, I would suggest going the ls/vtec route. You can make great b16 all motor engines, but they get really expensive really fast. Because you aren't using the engine for racing and it seems like you want an engine with solid street performance. You would be more happy with a mild ls/vtec because it will have more torque, which is more noticable on the street.

 

LSV with LS trans gets my vote

 

Here is a pic of what i ended up snagging. b16a and a jdm j1 tranny.




I guess ill clarify a little here. Im not racing. No quarter mile, autox, no STREET racing. The whole point of this is a project car. To restore the teg with a few modifications for a weekend enjoyment vehicle. I can drive it around town or hwy and sometimes really get on it when i want to. So i'm not looking for gobs of power. The reason i considered the b16 was smaller disp/ better gas mileage, and i love the high revs.

 

Well, build whatever you think you would be happy with, we can only give you advice :D.

An LS/V would give you gobs of torque (when compared to a b16) but a slightly lower rev range (rpm limit would be around 10,000 for a build with aftermarket connecting rods and pistons with high strength piston pins)

A b16 would give you less torque, but you could rev that sucker to about 11,000 rpm with the same aforementioned modifications.

I'd suggest playing around with the zealworks compression calculator, they calculate mean piston speed and other important things like that. You want to be between the 2200 and 2500 fps (2500 is the absolute max, an engine won't last long if it is taken up there repeatedly, no matter how well the engine is built). Have fun.

 

i hope you didnt pay too much for that set up... that head looks tired and looks like it had leaks around the flange..

but it could just be dirty and needed to be cleaned

 

No leaks. Prev owner said it never leaked or burned a drop of oil and old head gasket shows just that. Quite dirty though. lots of carbon buildup. Its getting full gasket replacements as soon as i can figure out which gaskets to use. And a through cleaning. Motor had 91xxx miles on it when it was pulled. stock bottom end, p-30 pistons. not even a ridge on the cylinder tops and cylinders are silky smooth. Head looked good. gsr cam replacement when it was rebuilt 91xxx miles ago. Tranny im unsure of. cant really tell until you run it but everything checked ok visually. Have know clue what clutch kit/pressure plate/flywheel to use. Lol.

Got the whole set-up for 650.

 

That's a great deal, make sure you check everything when you go through and clean it. You don't want any surprises later on down the road.

 

Agreed. Now im debating if i should boost it or not.

 

If you are keeping the b16 block, boost it. You'll get a lot more power for your money. B16 na is possible, but very expensive.

 

Any minor mods i need to keep in mind for boost or will stock everything be fine for say 8-10 psi?

 

I know you didnt mention it as an option, but I'd strongly consider going with a straight B20 over the b16 and even over the ls/vtec...
I think youll love the torque from the 2L for daily driving. It will "feel" stronger and you can always add "vtec" down the road if you choose...

my 2 cents.

 

Wont touch a b20 man. Only if i was to stay n/a, stock motor. Boost and vtec is bad for that motor. Ive seen many friends blow their blocks with vtec conversions. The cylinder walls are too thin.

 

From my understanding from talking with a few knowledgable guys and reading is this...
b16- high rev. Good power. Can take boost in moderate amount (up to 10-11psi for street heard of up to 20 psi on the track)
B18- boost monsters. A stock ls with upgraded rod bolts and head studs can take up to 20 psi street.
Ls/vtec- solid n/a motor. Can take small amounts of boost similar to b16.
B20- n/a . Cylinder walls are too thin for boost or high compression without major risk.