would u recomend doing ls vtec?
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From: Penn State, Pa.
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (Jackson123)
It really all depends on the budget your working with. If you have the money and awant to stay B series why even fiddle around with an LS/VTEC? Just Buy an ITR setup.
If your stuck on the hybrid setup, why not do a CR/VTEC with a GSR or B16 tranny?
If your stuck on the hybrid setup, why not do a CR/VTEC with a GSR or B16 tranny?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 1
From: Binghamton, NY, US
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (jeremy moses)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeremy moses »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys im in the process on decideing on what to do with my teg. should i do a ls vtec or a swaped motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I take my car to a shop called bishop motorsports. It's in canton, ct. Go there tell him what you want and he will hook it up. Does awesome work. http://WWW.BISHOPMOTORSPORTS.com
I take my car to a shop called bishop motorsports. It's in canton, ct. Go there tell him what you want and he will hook it up. Does awesome work. http://WWW.BISHOPMOTORSPORTS.com
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Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (SleeperGSR)
You are going to hear different opinions on this set-up. Some will say 1) Go with it and others will say 2) LS-V motors are unreliable; Honda would have built and put this motor in a car if it were meant to be.
Me, personally, I say go with it and that they can be reliable. From what I have seen, most LS-V motors fail because the lack of money and prep put into them. Think about it...The LS motor has a 7-7200k redline; b16 has a 8.000 redline. People blow LS-V motors because they think the stock bottom end (ls block) can handle 8-9,000+ rpms when in reality, it [ls motor] was built for 7-7,200...You do the math and figure out why they blow.
First main reason I have seen failure in LS-V set-ups is the builder skipping having the rotating assembly balanced. Yes, the assembly comes balanced from Honda but having it checked and rebalanced is crucial. I would say $100-200 to have this done at a machine shop and it will pay for itself! Also while at the machine shop, have the rod journals micropolished.
Second main reason they [LS-V] motors blow is because the builder does not replace stock rod bolts w/ ARP ones. Once again, this all leads back to the stock LS motor being built by Honda only to turn 7-7,200 rpms. With stock rod bolts, it leads to bolt stretch and then to a slung rod bearing...From there, it's all DOWNHILL!
The third reason is the use of LS rods. I am not saying they cannot be used, becuase having them shot-peened (Wikipedia - Shot Peening), will increase your chance of them not breaking. This also leads back to the fact that the LS motor was constructed to turn 7-7,200 rpms.
The fourth reason for failure of LS-V motors that I have seen is from not using a VTEC 22tooth water pump. The use of a 19T (LS water pump) at higher (than stock) revs, will lead to cavitation (a void or air bubbles caused from the 19T water pump turning fast than it can handle; Wikipedia - Cavitation) causing the build to fail. The simple replacement of a 22T VTEC water pump will ensure you have a new pump and once again, increase your chances of your build "holding together".
The last reason is the use of OEM head studs. I have seen plenty of LS-V set-ups, where people have ran OEM head studs, experience stud stretch which leads to a blown head gasket and failure of build. The use of ARP GSR head studs is ideal for this motor set-up.
If you are going to build a LS-V motor, take the time to do it right and make as reliable as possible. You dont take your time and replace little things to increase chances of keeping it all together, you will be pulling the motor and rebuilding or replacing before too long. When building, replace OEM LS rod bolts w/ ARP bolts, OEM LS bearings (main, rod, and thrust) with ACL bearings, have the OEM LS rods shot-peened or replace w/ aftermarket (ie Eagle etc), have the rotating assembly checked and balanced along w/ rod journals micropolished, and replace OEM LS head studs w/ ARP GSR head studs . Also, to ensure you are staying w/in the rpm reality of the LS bottom end (if sticking w/ OEM LS rods), make sure you make your power before or between 7-8k rpms. You do not have to rev to 20,000 rpms to make usable and sufficient power.
All of this is just my .02. I am in the process of building a turbo LS-V motor and looking to put down 350-400 to the wheels. I have constructed my build around watching people build these motors, (they are built, they fail, making notes of what parts they used (or did not use) which lead to the failure) and research here on HT. It all comes down to building it right the first time and covering your *** in the right spots the first time around to ensure reliability. Search here on the boards, make notes of set-up that were and are successful w/ what parts they used, and spend the money to do it right. It's like they say:
There are 3 options: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Never a combo of all three-
1) Can be cheap and fast, but not reliable.
2) Can be cheap and reliable, but not fast.
3) Can be reliable and fast, but not cheap
Hope all of this helps
/rant
Me, personally, I say go with it and that they can be reliable. From what I have seen, most LS-V motors fail because the lack of money and prep put into them. Think about it...The LS motor has a 7-7200k redline; b16 has a 8.000 redline. People blow LS-V motors because they think the stock bottom end (ls block) can handle 8-9,000+ rpms when in reality, it [ls motor] was built for 7-7,200...You do the math and figure out why they blow.
First main reason I have seen failure in LS-V set-ups is the builder skipping having the rotating assembly balanced. Yes, the assembly comes balanced from Honda but having it checked and rebalanced is crucial. I would say $100-200 to have this done at a machine shop and it will pay for itself! Also while at the machine shop, have the rod journals micropolished.
Second main reason they [LS-V] motors blow is because the builder does not replace stock rod bolts w/ ARP ones. Once again, this all leads back to the stock LS motor being built by Honda only to turn 7-7,200 rpms. With stock rod bolts, it leads to bolt stretch and then to a slung rod bearing...From there, it's all DOWNHILL!
The third reason is the use of LS rods. I am not saying they cannot be used, becuase having them shot-peened (Wikipedia - Shot Peening), will increase your chance of them not breaking. This also leads back to the fact that the LS motor was constructed to turn 7-7,200 rpms.
The fourth reason for failure of LS-V motors that I have seen is from not using a VTEC 22tooth water pump. The use of a 19T (LS water pump) at higher (than stock) revs, will lead to cavitation (a void or air bubbles caused from the 19T water pump turning fast than it can handle; Wikipedia - Cavitation) causing the build to fail. The simple replacement of a 22T VTEC water pump will ensure you have a new pump and once again, increase your chances of your build "holding together".
The last reason is the use of OEM head studs. I have seen plenty of LS-V set-ups, where people have ran OEM head studs, experience stud stretch which leads to a blown head gasket and failure of build. The use of ARP GSR head studs is ideal for this motor set-up.
If you are going to build a LS-V motor, take the time to do it right and make as reliable as possible. You dont take your time and replace little things to increase chances of keeping it all together, you will be pulling the motor and rebuilding or replacing before too long. When building, replace OEM LS rod bolts w/ ARP bolts, OEM LS bearings (main, rod, and thrust) with ACL bearings, have the OEM LS rods shot-peened or replace w/ aftermarket (ie Eagle etc), have the rotating assembly checked and balanced along w/ rod journals micropolished, and replace OEM LS head studs w/ ARP GSR head studs . Also, to ensure you are staying w/in the rpm reality of the LS bottom end (if sticking w/ OEM LS rods), make sure you make your power before or between 7-8k rpms. You do not have to rev to 20,000 rpms to make usable and sufficient power.
All of this is just my .02. I am in the process of building a turbo LS-V motor and looking to put down 350-400 to the wheels. I have constructed my build around watching people build these motors, (they are built, they fail, making notes of what parts they used (or did not use) which lead to the failure) and research here on HT. It all comes down to building it right the first time and covering your *** in the right spots the first time around to ensure reliability. Search here on the boards, make notes of set-up that were and are successful w/ what parts they used, and spend the money to do it right. It's like they say:
There are 3 options: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Never a combo of all three-
1) Can be cheap and fast, but not reliable.
2) Can be cheap and reliable, but not fast.
3) Can be reliable and fast, but not cheap
Hope all of this helps
/rant
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 502
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From: CA
I say go for it. I used to one, that was built right and lasted for over a yr with no problems. I don't see a problem with it as long as it is built properly and you take care of it, it'll last. That's my opinion on it.
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From: DFW, TX, USA
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (LEV)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LEV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It really all depends on the budget your working with. If you have the money and awant to stay B series why even fiddle around with an LS/VTEC? Just Buy an ITR setup.
If your stuck on the hybrid setup, why not do a CR/VTEC with a GSR or B16 tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>
An ITR setup would be a huge waste of money. It could be much better spent elsewhere. He probably could do a b20/vtec but as he most likely already has the LS block, he can just work with that.
IMO, if your LS is in good condition you can turbo it. That will make much more power than the ls/vtec setup and be cheaper than a swap. The non-vtec LS does have some hope
If your stuck on the hybrid setup, why not do a CR/VTEC with a GSR or B16 tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>
An ITR setup would be a huge waste of money. It could be much better spent elsewhere. He probably could do a b20/vtec but as he most likely already has the LS block, he can just work with that.
IMO, if your LS is in good condition you can turbo it. That will make much more power than the ls/vtec setup and be cheaper than a swap. The non-vtec LS does have some hope
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 113
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From: Vancouver, WA, US
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (exodus24)
Originally Posted by Trock1029
You are going to hear different opinions on this set-up. Some will say 1) Go with it and others will say 2) LS-V motors are unreliable; Honda would have built and put this motor in a car if it were meant to be.
Me, personally, I say go with it and that they can be reliable. From what I have seen, most LS-V motors fail because the lack of money and prep put into them. Think about it...The LS motor has a 7-7200k redline; b16 has a 8.000 redline. People blow LS-V motors because they think the stock bottom end (ls block) can handle 8-9,000+ rpms when in reality, it [ls motor] was built for 7-7,200...You do the math and figure out why they blow.
First main reason I have seen failure in LS-V set-ups is the builder skipping having the rotating assembly balanced. Yes, the assembly comes balanced from Honda but having it checked and rebalanced is crucial. I would say $100-200 to have this done at a machine shop and it will pay for itself! Also while at the machine shop, have the rod journals micropolished.
Second main reason they [LS-V] motors blow is because the builder does not replace stock rod bolts w/ ARP ones. Once again, this all leads back to the stock LS motor being built by Honda only to turn 7-7,200 rpms. With stock rod bolts, it leads to bolt stretch and then to a slung rod bearing...From there, it's all DOWNHILL!
The third reason is the use of LS rods. I am not saying they cannot be used, becuase having them shot-peened (Wikipedia - Shot Peening), will increase your chance of them not breaking. This also leads back to the fact that the LS motor was constructed to turn 7-7,200 rpms.
The fourth reason for failure of LS-V motors that I have seen is from not using a VTEC 22tooth water pump. The use of a 19T (LS water pump) at higher (than stock) revs, will lead to cavitation (a void or air bubbles caused from the 19T water pump turning fast than it can handle; Wikipedia - Cavitation) causing the build to fail. The simple replacement of a 22T VTEC water pump will ensure you have a new pump and once again, increase your chances of your build "holding together".
The last reason is the use of OEM head studs. I have seen plenty of LS-V set-ups, where people have ran OEM head studs, experience stud stretch which leads to a blown head gasket and failure of build. The use of ARP GSR head studs is ideal for this motor set-up.
If you are going to build a LS-V motor, take the time to do it right and make as reliable as possible. You dont take your time and replace little things to increase chances of keeping it all together, you will be pulling the motor and rebuilding or replacing before too long. When building, replace OEM LS rod bolts w/ ARP bolts, OEM LS bearings (main, rod, and thrust) with ACL bearings, have the OEM LS rods shot-peened or replace w/ aftermarket (ie Eagle etc), have the rotating assembly checked and balanced along w/ rod journals micropolished, and replace OEM LS head studs w/ ARP GSR head studs . Also, to ensure you are staying w/in the rpm reality of the LS bottom end (if sticking w/ OEM LS rods), make sure you make your power before or between 7-8k rpms. You do not have to rev to 20,000 rpms to make usable and sufficient power.
All of this is just my .02. I am in the process of building a turbo LS-V motor and looking to put down 350-400 to the wheels. I have constructed my build around watching people build these motors, (they are built, they fail, making notes of what parts they used (or did not use) which lead to the failure) and research here on HT. It all comes down to building it right the first time and covering your *** in the right spots the first time around to ensure reliability. Search here on the boards, make notes of set-up that were and are successful w/ what parts they used, and spend the money to do it right. It's like they say:
There are 3 options: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Never a combo of all three-
1) Can be cheap and fast, but not reliable.
2) Can be cheap and reliable, but not fast.
3) Can be reliable and fast, but not cheap
Hope all of this helps
/rant
Me, personally, I say go with it and that they can be reliable. From what I have seen, most LS-V motors fail because the lack of money and prep put into them. Think about it...The LS motor has a 7-7200k redline; b16 has a 8.000 redline. People blow LS-V motors because they think the stock bottom end (ls block) can handle 8-9,000+ rpms when in reality, it [ls motor] was built for 7-7,200...You do the math and figure out why they blow.
First main reason I have seen failure in LS-V set-ups is the builder skipping having the rotating assembly balanced. Yes, the assembly comes balanced from Honda but having it checked and rebalanced is crucial. I would say $100-200 to have this done at a machine shop and it will pay for itself! Also while at the machine shop, have the rod journals micropolished.
Second main reason they [LS-V] motors blow is because the builder does not replace stock rod bolts w/ ARP ones. Once again, this all leads back to the stock LS motor being built by Honda only to turn 7-7,200 rpms. With stock rod bolts, it leads to bolt stretch and then to a slung rod bearing...From there, it's all DOWNHILL!
The third reason is the use of LS rods. I am not saying they cannot be used, becuase having them shot-peened (Wikipedia - Shot Peening), will increase your chance of them not breaking. This also leads back to the fact that the LS motor was constructed to turn 7-7,200 rpms.
The fourth reason for failure of LS-V motors that I have seen is from not using a VTEC 22tooth water pump. The use of a 19T (LS water pump) at higher (than stock) revs, will lead to cavitation (a void or air bubbles caused from the 19T water pump turning fast than it can handle; Wikipedia - Cavitation) causing the build to fail. The simple replacement of a 22T VTEC water pump will ensure you have a new pump and once again, increase your chances of your build "holding together".
The last reason is the use of OEM head studs. I have seen plenty of LS-V set-ups, where people have ran OEM head studs, experience stud stretch which leads to a blown head gasket and failure of build. The use of ARP GSR head studs is ideal for this motor set-up.
If you are going to build a LS-V motor, take the time to do it right and make as reliable as possible. You dont take your time and replace little things to increase chances of keeping it all together, you will be pulling the motor and rebuilding or replacing before too long. When building, replace OEM LS rod bolts w/ ARP bolts, OEM LS bearings (main, rod, and thrust) with ACL bearings, have the OEM LS rods shot-peened or replace w/ aftermarket (ie Eagle etc), have the rotating assembly checked and balanced along w/ rod journals micropolished, and replace OEM LS head studs w/ ARP GSR head studs . Also, to ensure you are staying w/in the rpm reality of the LS bottom end (if sticking w/ OEM LS rods), make sure you make your power before or between 7-8k rpms. You do not have to rev to 20,000 rpms to make usable and sufficient power.
All of this is just my .02. I am in the process of building a turbo LS-V motor and looking to put down 350-400 to the wheels. I have constructed my build around watching people build these motors, (they are built, they fail, making notes of what parts they used (or did not use) which lead to the failure) and research here on HT. It all comes down to building it right the first time and covering your *** in the right spots the first time around to ensure reliability. Search here on the boards, make notes of set-up that were and are successful w/ what parts they used, and spend the money to do it right. It's like they say:
There are 3 options: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Never a combo of all three-
1) Can be cheap and fast, but not reliable.
2) Can be cheap and reliable, but not fast.
3) Can be reliable and fast, but not cheap
Hope all of this helps
/rant
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (matt360)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt360 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks for taking the time to type that out... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey, no problem bud. Most people would tell you to search but I have been in your situation before and I was looking for experience and people that have seen ls-v build succeed and fail before. If you need anything, dont hesitate to pm me!
thanks for taking the time to type that out...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hey, no problem bud. Most people would tell you to search but I have been in your situation before and I was looking for experience and people that have seen ls-v build succeed and fail before. If you need anything, dont hesitate to pm me!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: san jose, ca, santa clara
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (Trock1029)
if you have the right money go for k20
if not
ls vtec is good, u got the high end and low end
it would be alot better if u go b20 block/vtec with jdm b16 head
just built it right and keep it on maintenance
cuz their not that reliable as daily driven car
if not
ls vtec is good, u got the high end and low end
it would be alot better if u go b20 block/vtec with jdm b16 head
just built it right and keep it on maintenance
cuz their not that reliable as daily driven car
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: torrington, ct, 06790
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (yarara0825)
hey thank you for all ur in put on this guys but i really don't know on what im doing because im just starting on working on my own car so i would appreciate if u guys could help me out when i need it.
Jeremy
Jeremy
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Wish it was the west coast, VTEC, USA
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (Trock1029)
Originally Posted by Trock1029
You are going to hear different opinions on this set-up. Some will say 1) Go with it and others will say 2) LS-V motors are unreliable; Honda would have built and put this motor in a car if it were meant to be.
Me, personally, I say go with it and that they can be reliable. From what I have seen, most LS-V motors fail because the lack of money and prep put into them. Think about it...The LS motor has a 7-7200k redline; b16 has a 8.000 redline. People blow LS-V motors because they think the stock bottom end (ls block) can handle 8-9,000+ rpms when in reality, it [ls motor] was built for 7-7,200...You do the math and figure out why they blow.
First main reason I have seen failure in LS-V set-ups is the builder skipping having the rotating assembly balanced. Yes, the assembly comes balanced from Honda but having it checked and rebalanced is crucial. I would say $100-200 to have this done at a machine shop and it will pay for itself! Also while at the machine shop, have the rod journals micropolished.
Second main reason they [LS-V] motors blow is because the builder does not replace stock rod bolts w/ ARP ones. Once again, this all leads back to the stock LS motor being built by Honda only to turn 7-7,200 rpms. With stock rod bolts, it leads to bolt stretch and then to a slung rod bearing...From there, it's all DOWNHILL!
The third reason is the use of LS rods. I am not saying they cannot be used, becuase having them shot-peened (Wikipedia - Shot Peening), will increase your chance of them not breaking. This also leads back to the fact that the LS motor was constructed to turn 7-7,200 rpms.
The fourth reason for failure of LS-V motors that I have seen is from not using a VTEC 22tooth water pump. The use of a 19T (LS water pump) at higher (than stock) revs, will lead to cavitation (a void or air bubbles caused from the 19T water pump turning fast than it can handle; Wikipedia - Cavitation) causing the build to fail. The simple replacement of a 22T VTEC water pump will ensure you have a new pump and once again, increase your chances of your build "holding together".
The last reason is the use of OEM head studs. I have seen plenty of LS-V set-ups, where people have ran OEM head studs, experience stud stretch which leads to a blown head gasket and failure of build. The use of ARP GSR head studs is ideal for this motor set-up.
If you are going to build a LS-V motor, take the time to do it right and make as reliable as possible. You dont take your time and replace little things to increase chances of keeping it all together, you will be pulling the motor and rebuilding or replacing before too long. When building, replace OEM LS rod bolts w/ ARP bolts, OEM LS bearings (main, rod, and thrust) with ACL bearings, have the OEM LS rods shot-peened or replace w/ aftermarket (ie Eagle etc), have the rotating assembly checked and balanced along w/ rod journals micropolished, and replace OEM LS head studs w/ ARP GSR head studs . Also, to ensure you are staying w/in the rpm reality of the LS bottom end (if sticking w/ OEM LS rods), make sure you make your power before or between 7-8k rpms. You do not have to rev to 20,000 rpms to make usable and sufficient power.
All of this is just my .02. I am in the process of building a turbo LS-V motor and looking to put down 350-400 to the wheels. I have constructed my build around watching people build these motors, (they are built, they fail, making notes of what parts they used (or did not use) which lead to the failure) and research here on HT. It all comes down to building it right the first time and covering your *** in the right spots the first time around to ensure reliability. Search here on the boards, make notes of set-up that were and are successful w/ what parts they used, and spend the money to do it right. It's like they say:
There are 3 options: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Never a combo of all three-
1) Can be cheap and fast, but not reliable.
2) Can be cheap and reliable, but not fast.
3) Can be reliable and fast, but not cheap
Hope all of this helps
/rant
Me, personally, I say go with it and that they can be reliable. From what I have seen, most LS-V motors fail because the lack of money and prep put into them. Think about it...The LS motor has a 7-7200k redline; b16 has a 8.000 redline. People blow LS-V motors because they think the stock bottom end (ls block) can handle 8-9,000+ rpms when in reality, it [ls motor] was built for 7-7,200...You do the math and figure out why they blow.
First main reason I have seen failure in LS-V set-ups is the builder skipping having the rotating assembly balanced. Yes, the assembly comes balanced from Honda but having it checked and rebalanced is crucial. I would say $100-200 to have this done at a machine shop and it will pay for itself! Also while at the machine shop, have the rod journals micropolished.
Second main reason they [LS-V] motors blow is because the builder does not replace stock rod bolts w/ ARP ones. Once again, this all leads back to the stock LS motor being built by Honda only to turn 7-7,200 rpms. With stock rod bolts, it leads to bolt stretch and then to a slung rod bearing...From there, it's all DOWNHILL!
The third reason is the use of LS rods. I am not saying they cannot be used, becuase having them shot-peened (Wikipedia - Shot Peening), will increase your chance of them not breaking. This also leads back to the fact that the LS motor was constructed to turn 7-7,200 rpms.
The fourth reason for failure of LS-V motors that I have seen is from not using a VTEC 22tooth water pump. The use of a 19T (LS water pump) at higher (than stock) revs, will lead to cavitation (a void or air bubbles caused from the 19T water pump turning fast than it can handle; Wikipedia - Cavitation) causing the build to fail. The simple replacement of a 22T VTEC water pump will ensure you have a new pump and once again, increase your chances of your build "holding together".
The last reason is the use of OEM head studs. I have seen plenty of LS-V set-ups, where people have ran OEM head studs, experience stud stretch which leads to a blown head gasket and failure of build. The use of ARP GSR head studs is ideal for this motor set-up.
If you are going to build a LS-V motor, take the time to do it right and make as reliable as possible. You dont take your time and replace little things to increase chances of keeping it all together, you will be pulling the motor and rebuilding or replacing before too long. When building, replace OEM LS rod bolts w/ ARP bolts, OEM LS bearings (main, rod, and thrust) with ACL bearings, have the OEM LS rods shot-peened or replace w/ aftermarket (ie Eagle etc), have the rotating assembly checked and balanced along w/ rod journals micropolished, and replace OEM LS head studs w/ ARP GSR head studs . Also, to ensure you are staying w/in the rpm reality of the LS bottom end (if sticking w/ OEM LS rods), make sure you make your power before or between 7-8k rpms. You do not have to rev to 20,000 rpms to make usable and sufficient power.
All of this is just my .02. I am in the process of building a turbo LS-V motor and looking to put down 350-400 to the wheels. I have constructed my build around watching people build these motors, (they are built, they fail, making notes of what parts they used (or did not use) which lead to the failure) and research here on HT. It all comes down to building it right the first time and covering your *** in the right spots the first time around to ensure reliability. Search here on the boards, make notes of set-up that were and are successful w/ what parts they used, and spend the money to do it right. It's like they say:
There are 3 options: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Never a combo of all three-
1) Can be cheap and fast, but not reliable.
2) Can be cheap and reliable, but not fast.
3) Can be reliable and fast, but not cheap
Hope all of this helps
/rant
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 0
From: DFW, TX, USA
Re: would u recomend doing ls vtec? (jdmjunkie8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjunkie8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im all for that sounds like a good build and you deffinitelly seem like you know alot but I was wondering if you had any idea around how much a setup like that would cost parts and labor included?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Buying all the parts and having a shop build it for you well practically double the price.
Im all for that sounds like a good build and you deffinitelly seem like you know alot but I was wondering if you had any idea around how much a setup like that would cost parts and labor included?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Buying all the parts and having a shop build it for you well practically double the price.
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