Okay So far I have the following done to my engine (B17A):

AEM CAI
DC Sports 4-2-1 header
Greddy MX cat back exhaust
NGK wires, Bosch Plat plugs

I'm looking to spend about $300-400 dollars at most. I was planning on getting an AEBS IM and then a 65mm TB after that, but I've heard some people say that without headwork an IM won't make a big difference.

What would some of you "pros" suggest? Point me in the right direction!

PS, I also autox as well and would be looking to upgrade my suspension possibly, but would prefer to do engine mods at the moment (suspension mods are Koni yellows and SS rear strut tower brace).

 

Get a High flow cat, to complete your exhaust system. With the remaining money do an ITR rear swaybar upgrade. For auto-x suspension upgrades will be more noticed than mild engine upgrades.

 

sell ur existing parts and build a TURBO KIT!! YAAAAAA!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy8151 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a High flow cat, to complete your exhaust system. With the remaining money do an ITR rear swaybar upgrade. For auto-x suspension upgrades will be more noticed than mild engine upgrades.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know suspension mods will be much more noticeable autoxing. But I'm not a serious (competing for points) autoxer at this point and only do about 5-6 times a year, whereas I drive on the road all the time

I thought the ITR rear sway bar wouldn't fit without modification?

LOL, sell my existing parts? If I sold my exhaust what would I do when I had a turbo? I don't have enough parts to sell to have $2500 for a good turbo kit, lol.

 

[QUOTE=Dawsonb17a]

I know suspension mods will be much more noticeable autoxing. But I'm not a serious (competing for points) autoxer at this point and only do about 5-6 times a year, whereas I drive on the road all the time

I thought the ITR rear sway bar wouldn't fit without modification?

QUOTE]

the itr sway bar will fit you just need bigger bushings and some minor modifications, but you can doit yourself in an afternoon.

but why do you want a lot of power if you can't hold your car on the road? why not get some good springs(if you don't already have them) to go along with your koni yellows

 

^sweet, a fellow Family Guy fan, giggity giggity GIGGITY!

Well I used to have H&R Sport springs but my car was way way WAY too low and my camber was all fux0red up, even with a camber kit. I've gone through 3 sets of tires in the last 2 yrs and I'm sick of that. So I removed them. Eventually I'll get GCs or some coilovers but I don't want to lower my car anymore than it is (Konis lower it). I mean I can drive it pretty well. Won G Stock a few years back in SC.

 

another more obscure family guy quote: "16, 18? AWWW-right!!!"

anyway, if you're autoxing (like me) go with all suspension. autox is 80% driver, 15% car, 5% luck and messed up ****. learning to drive fast with a slower car will benefit you in the long run. trust me. having a fast car will give you a false sense of superiority.

one of the instructors in houston, took an old stock corolla and schooled guys in bmw 330ci, corvettes, and many other cars. it's mostly driver. for now, if you really have money to blow, get an ITR sway bar with the BSQ or Beaks kit. by far, best bang for the buck mod ever. even better than a turbo. search for it and youll see everyone loves the ITR sway.

here's a list of other suspension stuff.
get stiffer springs and shocks (i have eibach prokit and kyb agx)
front and rear upper strut bars
rear lower tie
c-pillar bar (some people argue it does nothing but i think it does)

and dawson: lowering a car messesup the toe way more than the camber. i know people who have been riding on negative camber for years and wear isnt that abnormal. you should get that check. i bet you your toe is off. and finally, (long entry) i didnt know you could run in g stock with springs and shocks...

 

get some cams!

 

Upgrade the valvetrain. or even chip the ecu or a new clutch and flywheel (add in bill or two).

 

Take the money, and go to a driving school. That is the best mod you can do for auto-x.

 

I've been autoxing for over 4 yrs, but haven't been doing it as much recently due to money issues (being rectified this season). Since I'm a racer on a budget, my first mod for autoxing (this summer) that I haven't mentioned is a set of Falken Azenis. I know they're not R compound but I'm a budget racer, they're way better than the all season tires I've run on in the past.

When I autoxed in G Stock I did not have springs. And you are allowed to replace your shocks in a stock class (as well as cat back exhaust work). Also I don't need stiffer shocks, I have Koni Yellows (as mentioned above) that are far superior to KYB AGXs.

As far as toe settings, I have my car aligned every 6 months (on average) so wouldn't they correct/check my toe? (I'm assuming such)

Okay, I think I'm being swayed (no pun intended) towards just doing suspension mods even though I want more punch for my engine (I guess $$ isn't there for significant gains now). So an ITR rear sway bar huh? I've heard of problems with the bar ripping up the stock attachment points? Is this true, b/c that sounds bad. And where can I find one with the proper mounting accessories?

 

I'd invest in better spark plugs (Bosch Platinum's kind of suck), and then begin to focus on suspension upgrades.

 

dear diary .... JACKPOT !!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd invest in better spark plugs (Bosch Platinum's kind of suck), and then begin to focus on suspension upgrades.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just replaced my spark plugs with the ones mentioned. They're basically OEM so whats wrong with them. I'm not pushing much more hp than stock so I don't think its necessary to get Iridium's or even copper ones.

 

get a performance clutch

 

I will be replacing my clutch with an upgraded unit as well as a lightened flywheel when my OEM clutch needs replacement, which will most likely be within the next 10,000 miles. I don't have lots of money to through around so I'd rather not replace the clutch before it needs it.