What is the difference in size?
I wanted to get these rims for my black integra
Advan RG II Wheel 16x7.0 4x100
I know the 16 means they are 16 in rims, what does the 7.0 and 4x100 mean?
And what would the difference be in 16x7 and 16x8? and there is an option for the offset 35 , 41 , and 48 which one would i choose for a stock setting?
Ty
Advan RG II Wheel 16x7.0 4x100
I know the 16 means they are 16 in rims, what does the 7.0 and 4x100 mean?
And what would the difference be in 16x7 and 16x8? and there is an option for the offset 35 , 41 , and 48 which one would i choose for a stock setting?
Ty
x7 is the width and 4x100 is the bolt pattern you have an ITR so you're 5x114.3 offset is how far its spaced from the hub. so 0 offset is hellastance while a +35 is more oem/normal.
So another question. If the Stock ITR offset is 50mm+. And i want to buy rims that are 16x7, 5x 114, and the Offset is 45 mm. Is that going to work? The required tire size on them is 205/45-16
Is it going to look good? Like is it going to be flush with the fenders or is going to be sticking out to much, or in to much.
Thnx
Is it going to look good? Like is it going to be flush with the fenders or is going to be sticking out to much, or in to much.
Thnx
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Flush with the fenders is dependent on camber angles, tire size, willingness to roll fenders, etc etc etc etc etc.
Something like 15x7.5 +35 or 15x8 + 35 would be flush with fenders and will require fender rolling.
Offset is the measure of how far (in millimeters) a wheel's mounting surface is from its centerline.
Example. ...a 8" wide wheel:
-8" wide wheel with a 0 offset has 4" of wheel on each side of the hub.
-8" wide wheel with a +25 offset has the mounting surface placed 25mm (1" to the outboard side). Meaning 3" of wheel going outboard. 5" inboard.
-the LOWER an offset number, the more aggressive the fitment.
16x7 +45 with 215/45/16 is a very standard type fitment. It moves the wheel face 3/4" outboard as compared to stock. Not flush with the fenders. But no need for fender mods.
Problem with ITR's is finding a decent wheel that fits in a 15". Usually, you have to go with 16's and deal with shitty tire sizing and choice.
I believe gram lights (rays) makes a new 15" wheel that fits ITR's and is relatively inexpensive. I think $1200-1500 for the set or something. Doesn't get much cheaper than that unless you want to buy Rotas :/
There's a bunch of picture threads in the ITR forum. Or try googling pics of wheel sizing on ITR's and find what you'd like to do.
Something like 15x7.5 +35 or 15x8 + 35 would be flush with fenders and will require fender rolling.
Offset is the measure of how far (in millimeters) a wheel's mounting surface is from its centerline.
Example. ...a 8" wide wheel:
-8" wide wheel with a 0 offset has 4" of wheel on each side of the hub.
-8" wide wheel with a +25 offset has the mounting surface placed 25mm (1" to the outboard side). Meaning 3" of wheel going outboard. 5" inboard.
-the LOWER an offset number, the more aggressive the fitment.
16x7 +45 with 215/45/16 is a very standard type fitment. It moves the wheel face 3/4" outboard as compared to stock. Not flush with the fenders. But no need for fender mods.
Problem with ITR's is finding a decent wheel that fits in a 15". Usually, you have to go with 16's and deal with shitty tire sizing and choice.
I believe gram lights (rays) makes a new 15" wheel that fits ITR's and is relatively inexpensive. I think $1200-1500 for the set or something. Doesn't get much cheaper than that unless you want to buy Rotas :/
There's a bunch of picture threads in the ITR forum. Or try googling pics of wheel sizing on ITR's and find what you'd like to do.
Flush with the fenders is dependent on camber angles, tire size, willingness to roll fenders, etc etc etc etc etc.
Something like 15x7.5 +35 or 15x8 + 35 would be flush with fenders and will require fender rolling.
Offset is the measure of how far (in millimeters) a wheel's mounting surface is from its centerline.
Example. ...a 8" wide wheel:
-8" wide wheel with a 0 offset has 4" of wheel on each side of the hub.
-8" wide wheel with a +25 offset has the mounting surface placed 25mm (1" to the outboard side). Meaning 3" of wheel going outboard. 5" inboard.
-the LOWER an offset number, the more aggressive the fitment.
16x7 +45 with 215/45/16 is a very standard type fitment. It moves the wheel face 3/4" outboard as compared to stock. Not flush with the fenders. But no need for fender mods.
Problem with ITR's is finding a decent wheel that fits in a 15". Usually, you have to go with 16's and deal with shitty tire sizing and choice.
I believe gram lights (rays) makes a new 15" wheel that fits ITR's and is relatively inexpensive. I think $1200-1500 for the set or something. Doesn't get much cheaper than that unless you want to buy Rotas :/
There's a bunch of picture threads in the ITR forum. Or try googling pics of wheel sizing on ITR's and find what you'd like to do.
Something like 15x7.5 +35 or 15x8 + 35 would be flush with fenders and will require fender rolling.
Offset is the measure of how far (in millimeters) a wheel's mounting surface is from its centerline.
Example. ...a 8" wide wheel:
-8" wide wheel with a 0 offset has 4" of wheel on each side of the hub.
-8" wide wheel with a +25 offset has the mounting surface placed 25mm (1" to the outboard side). Meaning 3" of wheel going outboard. 5" inboard.
-the LOWER an offset number, the more aggressive the fitment.
16x7 +45 with 215/45/16 is a very standard type fitment. It moves the wheel face 3/4" outboard as compared to stock. Not flush with the fenders. But no need for fender mods.
Problem with ITR's is finding a decent wheel that fits in a 15". Usually, you have to go with 16's and deal with shitty tire sizing and choice.
I believe gram lights (rays) makes a new 15" wheel that fits ITR's and is relatively inexpensive. I think $1200-1500 for the set or something. Doesn't get much cheaper than that unless you want to buy Rotas :/
There's a bunch of picture threads in the ITR forum. Or try googling pics of wheel sizing on ITR's and find what you'd like to do.
I was thinking about these
in gold not silver tho
Flush with the fenders is dependent on camber angles, tire size, willingness to roll fenders, etc etc etc etc etc.
Something like 15x7.5 +35 or 15x8 + 35 would be flush with fenders and will require fender rolling.
Offset is the measure of how far (in millimeters) a wheel's mounting surface is from its centerline.
Example. ...a 8" wide wheel:
-8" wide wheel with a 0 offset has 4" of wheel on each side of the hub.
-8" wide wheel with a +25 offset has the mounting surface placed 25mm (1" to the outboard side). Meaning 3" of wheel going outboard. 5" inboard.
-the LOWER an offset number, the more aggressive the fitment.
16x7 +45 with 215/45/16 is a very standard type fitment. It moves the wheel face 3/4" outboard as compared to stock. Not flush with the fenders. But no need for fender mods.
Problem with ITR's is finding a decent wheel that fits in a 15". Usually, you have to go with 16's and deal with shitty tire sizing and choice.
I believe gram lights (rays) makes a new 15" wheel that fits ITR's and is relatively inexpensive. I think $1200-1500 for the set or something. Doesn't get much cheaper than that unless you want to buy Rotas :/
There's a bunch of picture threads in the ITR forum. Or try googling pics of wheel sizing on ITR's and find what you'd like to do.
Something like 15x7.5 +35 or 15x8 + 35 would be flush with fenders and will require fender rolling.
Offset is the measure of how far (in millimeters) a wheel's mounting surface is from its centerline.
Example. ...a 8" wide wheel:
-8" wide wheel with a 0 offset has 4" of wheel on each side of the hub.
-8" wide wheel with a +25 offset has the mounting surface placed 25mm (1" to the outboard side). Meaning 3" of wheel going outboard. 5" inboard.
-the LOWER an offset number, the more aggressive the fitment.
16x7 +45 with 215/45/16 is a very standard type fitment. It moves the wheel face 3/4" outboard as compared to stock. Not flush with the fenders. But no need for fender mods.
Problem with ITR's is finding a decent wheel that fits in a 15". Usually, you have to go with 16's and deal with shitty tire sizing and choice.
I believe gram lights (rays) makes a new 15" wheel that fits ITR's and is relatively inexpensive. I think $1200-1500 for the set or something. Doesn't get much cheaper than that unless you want to buy Rotas :/
There's a bunch of picture threads in the ITR forum. Or try googling pics of wheel sizing on ITR's and find what you'd like to do.
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Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Offset and width have to be placed together to mean anything as far as fitment goes. Width by itself doesn't tell you much. Offset by itself tells you almost nothing.
7" wide with a +40 offset is a fitment that shouldn't require fender mods depending tire size. Since ITR hubs stick out 5mm further than non-R hubs....this would be like using 7" width wheels with a 35 offset on a normal integra. Its a semi aggressive fitment.
Should fit just fine with a 215/45/16 or 205/50/15 (dunno which diameter you're referring to). Don't use a camber kit to straighten out the camber to stock specs if you lower it. Set the camber *slightly* negative so the wheel/tire fits. You won't see uneven wear if you set the toe correctly....unless you're doing massive burnouts. I'm going to guess you'll need about -2 deg of camber depending on how low you are.
A TINY bit of roll might be required on the rear fender lip...depending on how you want to set it up. If you do this...just be extremely careful and use a fender roller and heat gun. Then meticulously re-coat the fender lip. I use epoxy and undercoat.
7" wide with a +40 offset is a fitment that shouldn't require fender mods depending tire size. Since ITR hubs stick out 5mm further than non-R hubs....this would be like using 7" width wheels with a 35 offset on a normal integra. Its a semi aggressive fitment.
Should fit just fine with a 215/45/16 or 205/50/15 (dunno which diameter you're referring to). Don't use a camber kit to straighten out the camber to stock specs if you lower it. Set the camber *slightly* negative so the wheel/tire fits. You won't see uneven wear if you set the toe correctly....unless you're doing massive burnouts. I'm going to guess you'll need about -2 deg of camber depending on how low you are.
A TINY bit of roll might be required on the rear fender lip...depending on how you want to set it up. If you do this...just be extremely careful and use a fender roller and heat gun. Then meticulously re-coat the fender lip. I use epoxy and undercoat.
Honda-Tech Member
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Wheel Offsets
The offset of a wheel is what locates the tire and wheel assembly in relation to the suspension. More specifically, it is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the center line of the rim. Below is an explanation of the various types of offsets which are pictured in the above graphic.

Positive Offset
A positive offset occurs when the hub mounting surface is on the street side (the side you see) of the center line of the rim. Most factory rims will have this type of offset.

Zero Offset
When the hub mounting surface is centered within the rim, it is known as a zero offset.

Negative Offset
If the hub mounting surface is on the brake side of the center line of the rim, it is considered a negative offset or "deep dish".
So, a +40 offset would translate to the hub mounting surface being 40mm towards the street side (the side you see when looking straight at a car.)
A -40 offset would translate to the hub mounting surface being 40mm towards the brake side (or towards the inner wheel wells of the car)
All measurements are in millimeters.
The offset of a wheel is what locates the tire and wheel assembly in relation to the suspension. More specifically, it is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the center line of the rim. Below is an explanation of the various types of offsets which are pictured in the above graphic.

Positive Offset
A positive offset occurs when the hub mounting surface is on the street side (the side you see) of the center line of the rim. Most factory rims will have this type of offset.

Zero Offset
When the hub mounting surface is centered within the rim, it is known as a zero offset.

Negative Offset
If the hub mounting surface is on the brake side of the center line of the rim, it is considered a negative offset or "deep dish".
So, a +40 offset would translate to the hub mounting surface being 40mm towards the street side (the side you see when looking straight at a car.)
A -40 offset would translate to the hub mounting surface being 40mm towards the brake side (or towards the inner wheel wells of the car)
All measurements are in millimeters.
Offset and width have to be placed together to mean anything as far as fitment goes. Width by itself doesn't tell you much. Offset by itself tells you almost nothing.
7" wide with a +40 offset is a fitment that shouldn't require fender mods depending tire size. Since ITR hubs stick out 5mm further than non-R hubs....this would be like using 7" width wheels with a 35 offset on a normal integra. Its a semi aggressive fitment.
Should fit just fine with a 215/45/16 or 205/50/15 (dunno which diameter you're referring to). Don't use a camber kit to straighten out the camber to stock specs if you lower it. Set the camber *slightly* negative so the wheel/tire fits. You won't see uneven wear if you set the toe correctly....unless you're doing massive burnouts. I'm going to guess you'll need about -2 deg of camber depending on how low you are.
A TINY bit of roll might be required on the rear fender lip...depending on how you want to set it up. If you do this...just be extremely careful and use a fender roller and heat gun. Then meticulously re-coat the fender lip. I use epoxy and undercoat.
7" wide with a +40 offset is a fitment that shouldn't require fender mods depending tire size. Since ITR hubs stick out 5mm further than non-R hubs....this would be like using 7" width wheels with a 35 offset on a normal integra. Its a semi aggressive fitment.
Should fit just fine with a 215/45/16 or 205/50/15 (dunno which diameter you're referring to). Don't use a camber kit to straighten out the camber to stock specs if you lower it. Set the camber *slightly* negative so the wheel/tire fits. You won't see uneven wear if you set the toe correctly....unless you're doing massive burnouts. I'm going to guess you'll need about -2 deg of camber depending on how low you are.
A TINY bit of roll might be required on the rear fender lip...depending on how you want to set it up. If you do this...just be extremely careful and use a fender roller and heat gun. Then meticulously re-coat the fender lip. I use epoxy and undercoat.
Offset and width have to be placed together to mean anything as far as fitment goes. Width by itself doesn't tell you much. Offset by itself tells you almost nothing.
7" wide with a +40 offset is a fitment that shouldn't require fender mods depending tire size. Since ITR hubs stick out 5mm further than non-R hubs....this would be like using 7" width wheels with a 35 offset on a normal integra. Its a semi aggressive fitment.
Should fit just fine with a 215/45/16 or 205/50/15 (dunno which diameter you're referring to). Don't use a camber kit to straighten out the camber to stock specs if you lower it. Set the camber *slightly* negative so the wheel/tire fits. You won't see uneven wear if you set the toe correctly....unless you're doing massive burnouts. I'm going to guess you'll need about -2 deg of camber depending on how low you are.
A TINY bit of roll might be required on the rear fender lip...depending on how you want to set it up. If you do this...just be extremely careful and use a fender roller and heat gun. Then meticulously re-coat the fender lip. I use epoxy and undercoat.
7" wide with a +40 offset is a fitment that shouldn't require fender mods depending tire size. Since ITR hubs stick out 5mm further than non-R hubs....this would be like using 7" width wheels with a 35 offset on a normal integra. Its a semi aggressive fitment.
Should fit just fine with a 215/45/16 or 205/50/15 (dunno which diameter you're referring to). Don't use a camber kit to straighten out the camber to stock specs if you lower it. Set the camber *slightly* negative so the wheel/tire fits. You won't see uneven wear if you set the toe correctly....unless you're doing massive burnouts. I'm going to guess you'll need about -2 deg of camber depending on how low you are.
A TINY bit of roll might be required on the rear fender lip...depending on how you want to set it up. If you do this...just be extremely careful and use a fender roller and heat gun. Then meticulously re-coat the fender lip. I use epoxy and undercoat.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Quick math in my head....16X7 +40 will sit about 7/8" (.875) further outboard than the stock 15x6 +50.
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