Warm up time
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From: madcity, wi, us
Warm up time
How long does it take your teggys to warm up in the cold? Mine's been taking forever in this 30 degree weather, probably around 15-20 minutes before it reaches operating temp when I'm driving it gently. Just wondering if my thermostat might be bad or something.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: NE, PA, USA
Re: Warm up time (ckyguy)
Your thermostat is probably sticking open. I just replaced mine because it was taking 20-30 min to warm up then it would go back to cold as I drove, especially on highways. It's really simple to change, just make sure to buy a thermo from the dealer. I don't see the benefit of saving $5 on a truely inferior quality piece from Autozone.
I think PatrickGSR94 said it best:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First drain the coolant from the radiator thru the drain plug, then disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator to let coolant drain out of there. Put the radiator hose back on.
Next locate the coolant drain bolt on the engine block. On B and D series engines it's behind the exhaust manifold/header, slighly towards the tranny end of the block. It's a BIG bolt, 19mm I believe, hard to miss. Remove that. Have a large container ready, because it will come GUSHING out. After it finishes draining, replace the bolt.
Now comes the tricky part. Remove the lower radiator hose and coolant temp sensor from the thermostat housing and then remove the housing w/ the thermostat. One of the housing bolts is pretty difficult to get to, so have some wrenches or a swivel socket joint handy (I can't remember what I used). Put the housing back in w/o the thermostat and reconnect the lower hose.
Now remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator and point it towards your drain bucket. Stick the garden hose into the top of the radiator where the upper hose connects and run the water. The remaining coolant in the block will be flushed out through the upper radiator hose. Keep the water running until the fluid coming out of the upper hose is clear.
Reinstall the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and all hoses etc. Fill the radiator w/ a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water (Honda pre-mixed, or Prestone and distilled water, do NOT use Xerex or Peak as it contains silicates which can damage the radiator). You will have to pour it in SLOWLY as it tends to bubble up and spurt out of the filler hole while you pour it in.
Once the coolant reaches the base of the filler neck, run the engine with the heater slider set to HOT. Continue to run the engine until it fully warms up and the radiator fan comes on. The upper radiator hose will also become hot. After this the coolant level in the radiator should have dropped since the thermostat opens and allows coolant into the block and the heater core. Shut off the engine, and continue to fill the radiator until it get to the base of the filler neck.
Locate the bleed bolt where the upper radiator hose attaches to the cylinder head. Loosen this bolt and let the coolant flow out until it flows out steady w/o bubbles. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to help get any remaining air out of the system. Continue squeezing the upper hose until no more bubbles come up at the base of the filler neck, and continue to add coolant as necessary to keep the level at the base of the filler neck.
Remove and wash out the coolant overflow tank, fill it to the proper level, and you're done!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can also check out these links:
Thermostat change with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=222
Coolant flush and bleed with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=421
You're welcome.
-Dave
I think PatrickGSR94 said it best:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First drain the coolant from the radiator thru the drain plug, then disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator to let coolant drain out of there. Put the radiator hose back on.
Next locate the coolant drain bolt on the engine block. On B and D series engines it's behind the exhaust manifold/header, slighly towards the tranny end of the block. It's a BIG bolt, 19mm I believe, hard to miss. Remove that. Have a large container ready, because it will come GUSHING out. After it finishes draining, replace the bolt.
Now comes the tricky part. Remove the lower radiator hose and coolant temp sensor from the thermostat housing and then remove the housing w/ the thermostat. One of the housing bolts is pretty difficult to get to, so have some wrenches or a swivel socket joint handy (I can't remember what I used). Put the housing back in w/o the thermostat and reconnect the lower hose.
Now remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator and point it towards your drain bucket. Stick the garden hose into the top of the radiator where the upper hose connects and run the water. The remaining coolant in the block will be flushed out through the upper radiator hose. Keep the water running until the fluid coming out of the upper hose is clear.
Reinstall the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and all hoses etc. Fill the radiator w/ a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water (Honda pre-mixed, or Prestone and distilled water, do NOT use Xerex or Peak as it contains silicates which can damage the radiator). You will have to pour it in SLOWLY as it tends to bubble up and spurt out of the filler hole while you pour it in.
Once the coolant reaches the base of the filler neck, run the engine with the heater slider set to HOT. Continue to run the engine until it fully warms up and the radiator fan comes on. The upper radiator hose will also become hot. After this the coolant level in the radiator should have dropped since the thermostat opens and allows coolant into the block and the heater core. Shut off the engine, and continue to fill the radiator until it get to the base of the filler neck.
Locate the bleed bolt where the upper radiator hose attaches to the cylinder head. Loosen this bolt and let the coolant flow out until it flows out steady w/o bubbles. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to help get any remaining air out of the system. Continue squeezing the upper hose until no more bubbles come up at the base of the filler neck, and continue to add coolant as necessary to keep the level at the base of the filler neck.
Remove and wash out the coolant overflow tank, fill it to the proper level, and you're done!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can also check out these links:
Thermostat change with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=222
Coolant flush and bleed with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=421
You're welcome.
-Dave
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Posts: n/a
Re: Warm up time (91TegLS)
if you do not drive the car as soon as you turn it on, it is quitenormal to take quite a bit of time to reach normal operating temp. Just let it warm up for about 5 minutes, and then drive very gently until it reaches operating temp.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 154
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From: ON, Canada
Re: Warm up time (ckyguy)
my car takes fairly long to warm up to, i first warm up my car for about 5min and then i gently drive it and then usually get on the highway pretty quick, but still takes quite a long time, could a cold air intake effect this?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 1
Re: Warm up time (vidanator)
i believe if your thermostat was stuck open, your car would not reach normal operating temprature.
your coolant would not have a chance to warm up since it would be flowing infiniteously.
your coolant would not have a chance to warm up since it would be flowing infiniteously.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 349
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From: NE, PA, USA
Re: Warm up time (buddha1320)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe if your thermostat was stuck open, your car would not reach normal operating temprature.
your coolant would not have a chance to warm up since it would be flowing infiniteously.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My thermo was stuck open. It took about 30 min of idling to warm up when it was like 35° out. When I would drive it would go back to cold because of the air flowing through the radiator. Gave me a horrible bouncing idle too, I guess because the ECU would think it was warmed up but the IACV wouldn't.
your coolant would not have a chance to warm up since it would be flowing infiniteously.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My thermo was stuck open. It took about 30 min of idling to warm up when it was like 35° out. When I would drive it would go back to cold because of the air flowing through the radiator. Gave me a horrible bouncing idle too, I guess because the ECU would think it was warmed up but the IACV wouldn't.
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From: NYC bitchessss
Re: Warm up time (91TegLS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91TegLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't see the benefit of saving $5 on a truely inferior quality piece from Autozone.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do. Prove to me that the autozone ones aren't just as good. . . .
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do. Prove to me that the autozone ones aren't just as good. . . .
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,555
Likes: 0
From: NYC bitchessss
Re: Warm up time (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe if your thermostat was stuck open, your car would not reach normal operating temprature.
your coolant would not have a chance to warm up since it would be flowing infiniteously.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine was doing that with a drilled thermostat, and it does reach full operating temp if you don't drive it (no air flow) but eventually it would drop back down to cold. . not all the way down, but down enough to notice it. . .
your coolant would not have a chance to warm up since it would be flowing infiniteously.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine was doing that with a drilled thermostat, and it does reach full operating temp if you don't drive it (no air flow) but eventually it would drop back down to cold. . not all the way down, but down enough to notice it. . .
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,101
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: Warm up time (91TegLS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91TegLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your thermostat is probably sticking open. I just replaced mine because it was taking 20-30 min to warm up then it would go back to cold as I drove, especially on highways. It's really simple to change, just make sure to buy a thermo from the dealer. I don't see the benefit of saving $5 on a truely inferior quality piece from Autozone.
I think PatrickGSR94 said it best:
You can also check out these links:
Thermostat change with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=222
Coolant flush and bleed with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=421
You're welcome.
-Dave</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe yep one of my better H-T posts I think. I don't even know where or when I originally posted it.
The only problem with that 2nd T-I link is that it doesn't say to open the bleeder screw near the upper radiator hose. This is only on earlier B-series VTEC heads I believe, the one pictured doesn't have a bleed screw.
Also it says to mix Honda coolant with distilled water. I'm pretty sure all Honda coolant is pre-mixed, so you would NOT want to mix it with anything.
I personally would recommend a gallon of Prestone green coolant mixed with a gallon of distilled water. If you use Honda coolant you have to buy 2 gallons to have enough to fill the cooling system. Same if you buy that new pre-mixed version of Prestone green coolant. However the pre-mixed Prestone green coolant is great for topping off the coolant any time that you're not doing a full flush and re-fill.
Oh yeah, that T-I article isn't showing how to actually flush the coolant, only a drain and refill. To flush the coolant, follow my write-up above and remove the thermostat, replace the housing, and then run water from the garden hose through the system until it comes out clear.
I think PatrickGSR94 said it best:
You can also check out these links:
Thermostat change with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=222
Coolant flush and bleed with pics:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=421
You're welcome.
-Dave</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe yep one of my better H-T posts I think. I don't even know where or when I originally posted it.
The only problem with that 2nd T-I link is that it doesn't say to open the bleeder screw near the upper radiator hose. This is only on earlier B-series VTEC heads I believe, the one pictured doesn't have a bleed screw.
Also it says to mix Honda coolant with distilled water. I'm pretty sure all Honda coolant is pre-mixed, so you would NOT want to mix it with anything.
I personally would recommend a gallon of Prestone green coolant mixed with a gallon of distilled water. If you use Honda coolant you have to buy 2 gallons to have enough to fill the cooling system. Same if you buy that new pre-mixed version of Prestone green coolant. However the pre-mixed Prestone green coolant is great for topping off the coolant any time that you're not doing a full flush and re-fill.
Oh yeah, that T-I article isn't showing how to actually flush the coolant, only a drain and refill. To flush the coolant, follow my write-up above and remove the thermostat, replace the housing, and then run water from the garden hose through the system until it comes out clear.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 349
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From: NE, PA, USA
Re: Warm up time (m R g S r)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do. Prove to me that the autozone ones aren't just as good. . . . </TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe they are, who knows. I've heard a few complaints on here about them. So instead of having the same problem I was after I 'fixed' it, I spent the extra few dollars and got it from the dealer. At least I know it will perform the way it's supposed to from the factory, and if it doesn't I can always go back and bitch at them
I do. Prove to me that the autozone ones aren't just as good. . . . </TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe they are, who knows. I've heard a few complaints on here about them. So instead of having the same problem I was after I 'fixed' it, I spent the extra few dollars and got it from the dealer. At least I know it will perform the way it's supposed to from the factory, and if it doesn't I can always go back and bitch at them
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,101
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: Warm up time (91TegLS)
I'm running a 99-00 Si thermostat from the local Honda dealer myself, it was alot closer than the Acura dealer. All B-series VTEC engines use the same thermostat anyway.
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