Can any one give some input? My car is a 1998 Acura Integra LS. I cleaned the throttle body with it still on the car (pulled the air intake tube off and sprayed throttle body cleaner in it and wiped both sides of the plate). Keep in mind I had no troubles with the car WHATSOEVER before. CEL came on the next day and car was acting up and idling high/erratically. Code was for the IACV. Bought a new one and put it on and it was idling around 1,000rpm's at idle so I unplugged it and set the idle screw all the way in(lowest idle) and plugged it back in and now it idles at 750-800rpm's when it's not acting up.

When the car is cold it does fine but once it gets to FULL operating temperature and I'm coming to a stop and I push the clutch in the idle will hang at 1,300 rpm's until I come to a dead stop then it will idle down to 1,000rpms's. It won't come down until I tap the gas pedal then it will idle itself down to where it should be which is 750-800 rpm's. Any idea what's going on with it?

Quite a few people I've talked to so far have mentioned the TPS.

 

did you bleed the coolant system out?!

 

No I haven't bled it out. I did however check to make sure it was full of coolant the same day my IAC messed up and it's good on that account.

 

I have a feeling that it's something to do with a sensor that's overcompensating or something. A few people have mentioned the throttle plate hanging open but I don't feel like that is the case because it would stay hung open at a certain rpm and the idle wouldn't come down a little when I come to a complete stop. All my problems have spawned from me cleaning my throttle body. I wish I would have never messed with it. It ran perfect before.

 

Or the Fast idle valve under the throttle body needs adjusted

 

My car doesn't have an FITV.

 

ok, well, bleed the coolant system out and see if that helps. I know on mu GSR, NO MATTER what I did, the IACV messed up, my idle would bounce and cause jerking at slow speeds, so I just made a plate outa thin metal to put between the valve and intake manifold. It keeps my idle right where I want it and in the winter, I just turn my idle up a bit.

 

enough slack on the throttle cable ? it's normal for the idle to be higher while rolling vs at a complete stop.

 

Update: Just replaced TPS and car is still idling high and is now idle hunting. Haven't had the chance to check the voltage. Where should it be at when it's at idle and when it's at WOT?

 

What did you do about the two lines that go in the bottom of the IACV?

 

I'm not at your car so it is only speculation. In my experience, you never mess with the idle screw at all. When you install a new IACV, you need to reset your computer, and let it re-learn the idle points with the new IACV. There is a procedure for this in the Helms service manual. I did a write up on it, on JDMU, but its down now.

Yes, the IACV is constantly adjusting for electric loads, A/C loads, light loads, coolant fan loads, cold idle, warm idle etc.
When you adjusted the idle screw, you narrowed down the range the IACV could operate at. Again, this is only from my experience, your car may be different and have other issues.

 

Found a copy of it, but its for a different engine. To get your exact specs/procedure for your engine, you need to look it up in the corresponding Helms Service Manual.
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Computer Reset:
First if you have changed out or adjusted anything to do with the idle, you need to reset the ECU (computer). I replaced the EACV which controls the idle. The computer was still used to the old one, so I still had an idle problem.
To fix it:
1. Start the car
2. Warm it up until the radiator fan kicks on twice
(The service manual recommends that you hold the car at 3000 RPM for 3 minutes. But you need to listen for the fan to kick on twice.)
3. Now that your car is warm, turn it off.
4. Reset your computer. You need to disconnect the battery's negative terminal. Leave it disconnected for at least 10 seconds. Then connect it back up.
5. Make sure all accessories are turned off. (AC, Heater, rear defroster, head lights, blinkers, dome light, wipers and if you have power steering, do not turn the steering wheel at all)
6. Start your car with all accessories off, and do not even touch the accelerator pedal.
7. Let it run for 10 minutes like this, without touching the accelerator pedal or steering wheel or turning on anything, not even the radio.
(During this time you will hear the idle pick up and drop several times, this is your computer learning how the EACV/IACV affects the idle speed of your car.)
8. After the 10 minutes are up, turn off the car without turning anything else on or touching the steering wheel.
9. Now your idle is set, and your computer knows what to do when you turn your car back on.

 

I could very well have messed up. When I replaced the IACV I reset the computer before starting the car. I then started the car and let it run and saw that it was still idling at 1,000 rpm's so I unplugged the IAC and adjusted the idle screw. I didn't give it time to learn the idle. How can I go back to how it was? I don't remember how many turns back it was I just adjusted it all the way in to the lowest idle point cause at the lowest idle point it was idling at 700 rpm's with the IAC unplugged.

 

Re-adjusting the Idle:
(This is for the D15 non vtec motor found in the '92 DX with a manual transmission) NOTE: Look up the specs for your '98 Integra
1. Start your engine and run it until it warm up. (until the radiator fan kicks on twice)
2. Make sure all accessories are turned off, including headlights, radio, dome light, AC, rear defroster, blower fan etc...
3. Turn off your motor.
4. Disconnect the two wire connector from your EACV.
5. Connect your tachometer
6. Start your car with the accelerator pedal slightly pressed to get to about 1,000 RPM. Then slowly let off to stabilize your idle.
7. Your Idle speed (when the radiator fan is not on) should be 370-470 RPM.
8. Adjust your idle screw on the throttle body to achieve the idle in the above range.
9. Turn off your engine.
10. Reconnect the two wire connector to your EACV.
11. Either pull the ECU back up fuse in your fuse box or disconnect your battery for 10 seconds. This will reset your computer.

At this point you are done, but there are additional checks to narrow down your problem.

12. Restart the engine, and idle again for one minute, with no accessories on (see above)
13. Check that your idle speed is between 550 and 650 RPM.
14. Turn your headlights on and set to high beams, and idle for one minute.
15. Check that your idle speed is between 650 and 750 RPM.
16. Turn your headlights off, and make sure your rear defroster is off.
17. Turn your climate control fan to high, and your air conditioner on.
18. Check that your idle speed is between 760 and 860 RPM.

^^^ If your idle is not within specs then there is something wrong. The first test with no accessories on mainly tests your EACV. The second test checks your electric load detector. The third test checks if the idle raises when your AC is turned on. There are additional problems that can cause these conditions so consult your service manual for trouble shooting procedures.

BTW: that is a tachometer that you hook up under the hood. That is not using your dash/gauge cluster as a tach.