JDMjackyboy

well months later and i still havent solved this problem, there is an unknown light on on the tach, its here circled in red on my photobucket, anyone know what this light is? it was cut out of the tach by the last owner... really sucks!

http://s904.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMG_0963.jpg

aeon117

Bro, that appears to be the maint reqd light, or at least in a gen three teg (94-01).
Could just be that you need oil change, as mine comes on every ~5k miles. You can reset the oil reminder by turning the key to acc (i think, or position 2, or something), and pushing a button under the dash just right of the steering column. If your not in a gen 3 teg, disregard everything I said

I could be wrong, as I don't have the location memorized, but if I recall, thats where it is.



also, to fix your problem, make sure your vtec wires are wired correctly. In an obd1 ecu with b16/d16z6 head, the solenoid should wire to A4, vtec pressure to D6, Knock sensor to D3 (p28s don't need this connection), and a ground wire for the vtec pressure. If your ecu already has a wire in the location needed, you need to remove that wire. GSR heads are a little different

JDMjackyboy

Sweet thanks man, yeah I'm i'n a 95 teg which is running
A p28 ecu and a od2-->obd1 conversion harness, i also am
Using a jdm vtec solinoid so there is no pressure switch and the ecu is programed to not read for one, so I only have one wire coming from vtrc solinoid strait to ecu, il check and see if it's the mateince light and get back to you!

JDMjackyboy

So i just checked my two wire connections and their sound, so i checked if the wire was getting a voltage change at 4400+ rpm and there was no change, so i guess the ecu isnt sending the voltage when it should be so idk what the problem is, i tryed looking for the button u were talking about in 93+ integras but i couldnt find it, Why isnt me CEL not on? i know for a fact that my o2 sensor is broken off, there has to be a check engine light but there is none on, what would cause the light to not be on? the bulb isnt dead becuase it still comes on right as u turn the ignition then it dissapears, im running out of ideas here fast, please help!

aeon117

You just confused me... a lot.

I'm not sure how the whole jdm solenoid plays into the usdm ecus. Could be something entirely different with how they work.
For a solution to your problems, it seems like there is a problem being created from having a combination of usdm obd2, jdm obd1, and usdm obd1 parts. It may not necessarily be that you can't have that combination of parts, but that you are confused on which connections go where and how.

Like you said with the o2 sensor being broken without throwing any codes/lights, its obviously not connected, or the ecu isn't reading the connections for it.




The button I was talking about earlier is like on a rectangular box about half way in between the center console and steering column. If I remember correctly, its right up against the dash plastic (closer to the driver seat, as opposed to the engine). It took me a bit to find it, but it should be there, if not, there could be bigger problems on the table.

JDMjackyboy

So to me if feels like the jdm solinoed doesnt really make a difference because the ecu isnt even sending the signal for it to activate? does that make sense or am i totaly wrong? and did they ever run a obd2b wire harness in a 95 integra? i thought they didnt make that till 99+? this is all so confiusing becuase it should just be a plug and play setup. could the ecu be bad in any way? is there a way to check if the ecu is throwing a code without the light actuallty being on?

aeon117

well, there has to be conditions met for vtec to be activated, like temperature, vehicle motion, oil pressure, etc. (I don't actually know all of them off the top of my head)

Could be since you aren't using pressure, some of your sensors are broken/intentionally disabled, the ecu isn't getting the right information. Like I said, could be the fact that you have so many different parts going on... Really could be anything causing problems.

I would try to start fresh. Either unplug everything, or manual check each one, but go through every plug/wire and make sure its wired correctly, and that each one is working.

JDMjackyboy

Thanks for Sticking with me!

It was the matenence light and i turned it off, now the only light that is on is the SRS light. Wouldn't the car throw a CEL pretty much if anything was hooked up wrong? if a sensor was bad it would just throw a CEL, thats why i dont understand why it isnt, would the SRS light have anything to do with it not being on?

Checking every connection would be beyond my comprehention, why wouldnt the CEL reader not beable to connect with the car? there has to be a wiring problem somewhere becuase it acts like the jumper plug isnt even connected to the ecu


thanks for all the help, il keep trying to figure this out

aeon117

well, obviously there is a wiring/electrical problem. I don't know about trying to get codes, especially since you are currently obd2-obd1 harnessing.

I wish I could help more, but all I've already said is all I know about vehicle electrical systems, I mean I'm in the process of lsV swap right now, but have not yet hooked up the vtec wires, lol

JDMjackyboy

WELL, i finially figured this mess out after so many months, so usally when the car ran it would redline at 6800 so that started to make me think, and then i thought, and thought, and then realized that it was the ls redline correct? and then i was thinking well why isnt the ecu sending the codes for vtec to engage, well maybe becuase its an ls ECU!!, the guy sent me a ls ecu then im guessing on accident thinking it was a p28? does this make sense? thats why there is no codes being thrown for vtec not working becuase the ecu doesnt even know vtec exists, does this make sense? SOOOO, i did a little experiment, i took a car battery and while i was driving i hooked up the vtec solinoid wire to the battery at 5500 and there goes vtec as i start flying, so the solinoid works, the ecu isnt throwing a signal to the solinoid, has to be a ls ecu yeah!?

let me know what u think

Jack

aeon117

LS ecus can be chipped for vtec, although, it is possible whoever chipped it failed.

I have a p75-A51(LS, auto) ecu in my 94 manual rs. I don't currently have a vtec head, as my lsV build is on hold, so I have been driving around with ecu in a stock car.

All I can tell you is that I bought a vtec wire subharness, have it connected to the ecu, but the plugs are just chilling in the engine bay. I get a check engine light (which I assume is vtec is connected), but no noticeable problems. I have not seen if vtec engages yet, so I do not know if my chipped p75 does in fact work.


Long story short, p75(ls) ecus should work for vtec provided they are chipped right, but I have not seen it first hand.

JDMjackyboy

Recently was givin a AEM EMS 30-1000 ecu to tune my car with, is it possible to run the car with a basemap in the AEM EMS and be able to tune it myself? im pretty good with computers and wanted to give it a try since there are no tuners within 1500 miles of me

dk=gsr

your ecu could possible be a p06 converted to vtec. Most of those that are converted to vtec doesn't actually hit vtec when there suppose too, well to what i have seen. try taking it the cover off and see if its converted or just look at the code my the plugins. You shouldn't miss it.

JDMjackyboy

your right actually it says xxxxx-p06-xxx but he corssed the p06 out and rewrote p28, so what does this mean for me? my redline is still at 6800 and there is no vtec so how do i change this?

dk=gsr

damn him, i hate people like that.(SCAMMERS) so is it still chip???

JDMjackyboy

how do i know if its chipped or not, what do i look for in the ecu?

01oemTeggy

Absolutely nothing to do with the brake fading. Thats on wear and tear not due to vtec not working, in my case, i had a clogged cat. But for your issue, if you can't find a way to pull the codes you should just take it to a reputable mechanic/tuner who knows about honda's and can diagnose it for you.

01oemTeggy

Didn't even notice there was a second page. :facepalm: Well can you still contact him about the ecu? Have him make things right.

JDMjackyboy

i think i have a clogged cat, could this make vtec not work? yeah i will need to, i have a guy lined up for next week whoes the only repretable tuner in town for hondas, we will see what he says

01oemTeggy

Totaly could make vtec not work but it limits ur redline to 4500 rpm u said ur resline was 6800? Most likely your problem is the ecu. but pull the cat and check.

JDMjackyboy

anyone know a link where i can find a ls vtec base map? im running gsr cams, eagle rods and wiesco pistons gsr oil and water pump, have a AEM ems just need a base map to start to work on, thanks!

JDMjackyboy

Well i found a shop that is able to tune my car, but before i take it there i need to fix my brakes because pedal was getting really droopy at stoplights and when trying to brake, so i was told this was most likely my master cylinder, so i replaced it and now when i step on the brakes my abs unit makes this squeaky/squshy noise and
Pedal drops to the floor, could this be because i didn't bench bleed theadter cylinder it's self? I tried to bleed all 4 tires but air seemed to be constantly coming out, any ideas? Could it be a new leak i started?

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Open it up and take a picture of it. You can simply convert your p06 ecu into a p28 ecu. All you have to do is solder in the vtec components and then chip it.

You do not need an AEM EMS for a simple build. If you don't know how to mess with honda ecu's then I suggest you don't mess with the AEM unit.

Let the shop tune the car. I'm sure they'll use either Ectune or Neptune. Unless they still use Crome

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

You need to bleed one tire at a time. Seems like you don't have much knowledge of this stuff. Take it to a shop before you get hurt or hurt someone else driving with shitty brakes.

JDMjackyboy

weird.