vtec crossover point?!..
I have a 97 gsr with I/H/E, chipped ecu.. on a stock gsr motor, i know vtec engages first at 4400, now where does the secondary engage at?.. im planning on getting another chipped ecu, my current one has my vtec engaging at 4500..kinda annoying. would like to know where the second activates so then i can decide where i want vtec to crossover at when i get another chipped ecu. I plan on having vtec engage anywhere between 48-5200 for daily driver. any thoughts?
Even with a chipped ecu, will vtec still have a first and secondary crossover? or just the secondary? and/or does it elliminate the first crossover but enables just the secondary crossover? thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg6vtak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 97 gsr with I/H/E, chipped ecu.. on a stock gsr motor, i know vtec engages first at 4400, now where does the secondary engage at?.. im planning on getting another chipped ecu, my current one has my vtec engaging at 4500..kinda annoying. would like to know where the second activates so then i can decide where i want vtec to crossover at when i get another chipped ecu. I plan on having vtec engage anywhere between 48-5200 for daily driver. any thoughts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are running the stock IM and have the GSR cams, keep the VTEC crossover at 4400 RPM. WHen you switch cams or the intake manifold, only then should you mess with the crossover point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg6vtak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even with a chipped ecu, will vtec still have a first and secondary crossover? or just the secondary? and/or does it elliminate the first crossover but enables just the secondary crossover? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
BTW: you only have one VTEC on your car. The IAB (intake air bypass) operate at about 5600 RPM.
If you are running the stock IM and have the GSR cams, keep the VTEC crossover at 4400 RPM. WHen you switch cams or the intake manifold, only then should you mess with the crossover point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg6vtak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even with a chipped ecu, will vtec still have a first and secondary crossover? or just the secondary? and/or does it elliminate the first crossover but enables just the secondary crossover? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
BTW: you only have one VTEC on your car. The IAB (intake air bypass) operate at about 5600 RPM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg6vtak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks!
..i guess ill have vtec engage at 5200</TD></TR></TABLE>
As Dogginator mentioned, there is no reason to change crossover with your modifications. Also, it seems like your just picking out a crossover point. A vtec crossover point should be determined during a tune to determine where it will maximize your performance of your motor.
Ali
..i guess ill have vtec engage at 5200</TD></TR></TABLE>As Dogginator mentioned, there is no reason to change crossover with your modifications. Also, it seems like your just picking out a crossover point. A vtec crossover point should be determined during a tune to determine where it will maximize your performance of your motor.
Ali
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you are running the stock IM and have the GSR cams, keep the VTEC crossover at 4400 RPM. WHen you switch cams or the intake manifold, only then should you mess with the crossover point.
BTW: you only have one VTEC on your car. The IAB (intake air bypass) operate at about 5600 RPM.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yah i already siding on getting a stock ECU, but then again i plan on getting ITR/CTR cams slightly more aggressive cams and skunk2 intake mani. so im not sure if i should just keep the ecu i have no or get a stock ecu then when i have the cams and intake mani get another ecu?..
..of course got one vtec but the whole butterfly thing..i dont know too much of the gsr...ive worked a lot on ls/v's..
If you are running the stock IM and have the GSR cams, keep the VTEC crossover at 4400 RPM. WHen you switch cams or the intake manifold, only then should you mess with the crossover point.
BTW: you only have one VTEC on your car. The IAB (intake air bypass) operate at about 5600 RPM.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yah i already siding on getting a stock ECU, but then again i plan on getting ITR/CTR cams slightly more aggressive cams and skunk2 intake mani. so im not sure if i should just keep the ecu i have no or get a stock ecu then when i have the cams and intake mani get another ecu?..
..of course got one vtec but the whole butterfly thing..i dont know too much of the gsr...ive worked a lot on ls/v's..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As Dogginator mentioned, there is no reason to change crossover with your modifications. Also, it seems like your just picking out a crossover point. A vtec crossover point should be determined during a tune to determine where it will maximize your performance of your motor.
Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, that was next to process in my head. no point on having vtec early or changed if there isn't much mods in the first place.
As Dogginator mentioned, there is no reason to change crossover with your modifications. Also, it seems like your just picking out a crossover point. A vtec crossover point should be determined during a tune to determine where it will maximize your performance of your motor.
Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, that was next to process in my head. no point on having vtec early or changed if there isn't much mods in the first place.
Vtec engages at: 4800 rpms on a stock usdm p72 ecu
IAB secondary intake runners open at 5800 rpms.
A lot of people think it is 4,400 rpms but they do not understand that most factory tachs are not 100% accurate.
I would recommend upgrading to an aftermarket intake manifold which does not use secondarys & chipping your ecu with a higher vtec activation point such as 5,000 rpms.
IAB secondary intake runners open at 5800 rpms.
A lot of people think it is 4,400 rpms but they do not understand that most factory tachs are not 100% accurate.
I would recommend upgrading to an aftermarket intake manifold which does not use secondarys & chipping your ecu with a higher vtec activation point such as 5,000 rpms.
good info
..skunk2 intake mani? or what upgraded intake mani would be good to use..i also plan on getting some aggressive cams possibly like ITR/CTR.. im looking to get between 185-200 whp. for all motor. but i mean thats a step to getting but a good upgrade for most part.
..skunk2 intake mani? or what upgraded intake mani would be good to use..i also plan on getting some aggressive cams possibly like ITR/CTR.. im looking to get between 185-200 whp. for all motor. but i mean thats a step to getting but a good upgrade for most part.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg6vtak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..skunk2 intake mani? or what upgraded intake mani would be good to use..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read up on a ported intake manifold and throttlebody. People are having good results with them. Try seraching in the All-Motor forum, i remember reading a few good threads about them and people even have dyno comparisons of them. A buddy of mine is also running this in his R and has some good results. He has a mild build and is putting out around 200whp. Personally i think 200whp will be a little tough with your stock pistons/compression. But it seems like you got a good start. By the way what intake, header and exhaust you running? And what size collector on the header and what size pipping on the exhaust?
Ali
Read up on a ported intake manifold and throttlebody. People are having good results with them. Try seraching in the All-Motor forum, i remember reading a few good threads about them and people even have dyno comparisons of them. A buddy of mine is also running this in his R and has some good results. He has a mild build and is putting out around 200whp. Personally i think 200whp will be a little tough with your stock pistons/compression. But it seems like you got a good start. By the way what intake, header and exhaust you running? And what size collector on the header and what size pipping on the exhaust?
Ali
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Read up on a ported intake manifold and throttlebody. People are having good results with them. Try seraching in the All-Motor forum, i remember reading a few good threads about them and people even have dyno comparisons of them. A buddy of mine is also running this in his R and has some good results. He has a mild build and is putting out around 200whp. Personally i think 200whp will be a little tough with your stock pistons/compression. But it seems like you got a good start. By the way what intake, header and exhaust you running? And what size collector on the header and what size pipping on the exhaust?
Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not **** about being at 200, but close would be ideal for me..190 or so, i thought of doing that, sending the TB and IM to be port matched at maxbore or some other shop my friend knows. But then again i can get my hands on an aftermarket TB and IM. Either way i should be getting good results. So far, its
AEM SRI, Toda replica 4-1 header with 2.5" collector and a full 2.5" piping, and ES OVAL exhaust, and chipped ecu. Don't ask why but it was the only ecu i had before i got this motor in. I plan on getting a stock p72 ecu.
Modified by egg6vtak at 10:03 AM 8/22/2006
Read up on a ported intake manifold and throttlebody. People are having good results with them. Try seraching in the All-Motor forum, i remember reading a few good threads about them and people even have dyno comparisons of them. A buddy of mine is also running this in his R and has some good results. He has a mild build and is putting out around 200whp. Personally i think 200whp will be a little tough with your stock pistons/compression. But it seems like you got a good start. By the way what intake, header and exhaust you running? And what size collector on the header and what size pipping on the exhaust?
Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not **** about being at 200, but close would be ideal for me..190 or so, i thought of doing that, sending the TB and IM to be port matched at maxbore or some other shop my friend knows. But then again i can get my hands on an aftermarket TB and IM. Either way i should be getting good results. So far, its
AEM SRI, Toda replica 4-1 header with 2.5" collector and a full 2.5" piping, and ES OVAL exhaust, and chipped ecu. Don't ask why but it was the only ecu i had before i got this motor in. I plan on getting a stock p72 ecu.
Modified by egg6vtak at 10:03 AM 8/22/2006
This is my plan as far mods are concerned.. 180-200whp idealy
I/H/E, full 2.5" piping alway through to the exhaust
Aftermarket IM or port matched
Aftermarket TB or port matched
Hondata IM gasket
00-01 ITR/CTR cams
CTR/ITR valves?
CTR/ITR springs and retainers
Aftermarket cam gears or CTR/ITR
upgraded fuel rail
upgraded FPR
upgraded fuel pump walbro 255lph
upgraded injectors
chipped ecu, phearable/chrome/hondata, not sure which to go with?
Tune and dyno
...so far its just slight headwork and exterior, nothing to the block yet nor tranny, still deciding if want to upgrade the block internals, i still want to run 91 octane fuel. But then again with a good tune i can run any fuel. ITR/CTR pistons would be great, it will raise the compression but would have to run higher octane fuel, dont want to do that. So I would go another route with better pistons, connecting rods..etc, then stock.
Modified by egg6vtak at 12:00 PM 8/22/2006
Modified by egg6vtak at 12:00 PM 8/22/2006
I/H/E, full 2.5" piping alway through to the exhaust
Aftermarket IM or port matched
Aftermarket TB or port matched
Hondata IM gasket
00-01 ITR/CTR cams
CTR/ITR valves?
CTR/ITR springs and retainers
Aftermarket cam gears or CTR/ITR
upgraded fuel rail
upgraded FPR
upgraded fuel pump walbro 255lph
upgraded injectors
chipped ecu, phearable/chrome/hondata, not sure which to go with?
Tune and dyno
...so far its just slight headwork and exterior, nothing to the block yet nor tranny, still deciding if want to upgrade the block internals, i still want to run 91 octane fuel. But then again with a good tune i can run any fuel. ITR/CTR pistons would be great, it will raise the compression but would have to run higher octane fuel, dont want to do that. So I would go another route with better pistons, connecting rods..etc, then stock.
Modified by egg6vtak at 12:00 PM 8/22/2006
Modified by egg6vtak at 12:00 PM 8/22/2006
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