i have a 92 teg and the driverside trailing arm bushing is shot.. the metal inside is rusted through.. its to the point that the car sways going down the road and when the car is jacked up u can move the wheel from the front of the car to the back..
but anyways...
im wondering if i can get the bushing out or if i should just replace the entire trailing arm?
any information would be helpful. thanks guys

 

You can get the bushing out and order a new one from acura, but I believe that many pick a parts have these tegs in their yards, so you could go pull one just as quick. Good luck!

 

get a new one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a new one</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

Personally, I would do both sides.

From King Motorsports for OEM bushings its $105. And the Mugen replacements are just a few more bucks than that.

http://www.kingmotorsports.com...at=12

Ali

 

I would also recommend a new one, but some people don't have the tools to press a bushing in and out (or the knowledge of how to it without them). In this case they might be able to find one at the pick a part which would only require the use of a 14mm and 17mm socket and ratchet. Also pick a parts do not charge too much for rear trailing arms and a garage may charge you quite a bit of labor by the time they pull it off (unless you do that) press it in and put it back on. Just a thought, but to do it correctly a new one would be the better solution.

 

Either way it will still be over a hundred bucks no matter which way you choose to go.

If you buy a used trailing arm your still going to have to get an alignment after replacing it.

If you buy a new bushing just remove the trailing arm and take it to a shop to have the bushing pressed out and the new one put in. It honestly shouldn't be much since you removed everything. But your still going to need an alignment after that.

However I have seen a tool that will press the bushing out while keeping the trailing arm on the car, but IIRC the tool costs around 100 bucks.

Either way you'll be spending over $100 for sure.

Ali

 

well im not even gona worry about it now cause im trading it straight up for a DC. only thing ima miss is the LS/VTEC but oh well.. thanks 4 the info guys

 

good trade

 

yea.. its obd2 but he did an obd1 conversion. motor, jumper harness yadda yadda yadda.. its more reliable than the DA. i dont kno what internals are in the LS/VTEC nor how loing its been in the car and all that. i traded an ej1 for the DA and got some goodies and 500 bucks. so i think im still gettin a good deal