Ok, so I just replaced the head gasket on my 90 teg, factory b18a1 and got it back together a few days ago. Went to start it and it turns over fine, but wont fire up. Got gas, got spark and got to looking and the timing mark on the crank is off by about 90 degrees. So im guessing this is my problem.

When I took the head off to replace the gasket I ziptied the timing belt to the cam sprockets to insure I got it back on correctly. (This is the second time I replaced the head gasket in the last month, this process worked perfect the first time... don't use used head gaskets and always have your head plained) So the head appears to be where it needs to be, both cam sprockets are pointing up, and the distributor is pointed at the number one plug.

So my question is, is my fix as simple as taking the tension off the timing belt on the head... rotate the crank to line the mark up and slip the belt back on the head?? Or is there more to it than that?

I included pictures of the cam gears lined up, along with distributor lined up. The white V mark on the cam is where the mark is, just couldn't get the camera in there. And the other is of where I believe the mark is suppose to be lined up. Thanks for any help with this.

 

yes. just stick a 12'' extension down the #1 plug well and get it to it's highest point then set the cams...simple as that.

 

ok... making sure I got it right. Take the tension off the timing belt, get the #1 plug to the highest point and then slip the belt back on?

 

Both Your cams are off!!!!

look at the middle grooves! in-between both cam gears the grooves should line up! there not lined up! the arrows on top "appear" to be straight but look at the center its off! use your oil dip stick and lay it flush on the side of the head and line up the center cam grooves as well as the up arrows.

 

ya know, I didn't notice that. How would I go about adjusting the cam timing? Sorry this is my first time tackling the timing in these cars. I have relaced the motor and trans and learned my way around it pretty good, but this is my first attempt at setting the timing...

 

Just make sure the crank is lined up on the oil pump mark, then remove the belt, theres a few ways to get around it, iv once just pulled off the belt and lined up the gears and slipped on the belt back on but this is kinda difficult and a rubber mallet helps, or loosen the timing tentioner reset the cams and reset the belt and your done. NOW this tool really helps keeping the gears allighned straight while you instal the belt! just line up the cams correct set the tool between the gears as it holds it steady and slip the belt over and tension, this keeps the gears from moving.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-B16-B18-VTEC-CAM-GEAR-LOCK-INSTALLATION-TOOL-/121365216942?hash=item1c41ee3eae&item=121365216942&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks, I will def look into this tool. Does it matter than my car is non vtec? There seems to be a little more to it than I would have liked seeing that this is my dd and I need it back on the road. Ill be working on it in the coming days. Thanks for the help guys, im pretty sure Ill be back with more questions.

 

hmm never looked into that, but either way just reset the cam gears and double check the distributor.

 

ok, so I took the belt off. Got the crank adjusted, and slid it back on the cams... Put everything back together and went to fire it up. It started right up. Its idling at about 1500rpm and it puffed some white smoke out of the intake after running for a few minutes... so I cut it off. I hadn't rechecked the timing yet, im going to do that this afternoon. (I sleep during the day cause I work nights) Just wondering if there is anything else I need to check. I did remove the plugs, and the pistons are still dry... So the head gasket is holding up fine. Thanks for any input.

 

With the T belt on....spin the engine counter clockwise (never clockwise) via the crank bolt till you reach crank TDC AND the cam gears are pointing UP.

Do the two horizontal lines on the cam gears point directly at each other?

The UP marks get you into the ball park. The horizontal lines MUST line up with one another with the crank at TDC and the cams pointing in the arrow up position.

 

Got the crank on TDC and up faces up on the cams, but the lines are both facing slightly down instead of right at each other. Guess that's the next thing I need to work on. Thanks for the help.

 

Now i forgot to mention did you have the head sent to a machine shop for resurfacing ect??.. because if you did you HAVE to adjust the valves!!! there probably all loose or tight! it won't hurt to perform a valve lash adjustment! its fairly easy and theres a few videos on how to perform the valve lash as well in the haynes manual!



You can try using some zip ties and hold the cams correctly aligned and install the belt then double check its on straight then tension the belt and cut the zip ties away then manually with your hand and socket wrench rotate the motor by hand a few revolutions counter clock wise and bring the cams back to TDC and check your marks if everything is still straight start the motor.

 

Yes I did have the head resurfaced, was not aware that I should have adjusted the valves. I will look into that procedure after I solve the problem im having now. I got the timing spot on (see the picture below, and adjustable wrench and a few zip ties worked nicely). Started it up this afternoon, and besides a higher than normal idle it was fine. Let it run up to temp in the driveway, and then the white smoke started from the tailpipe, and only got worse. Pulled the plugs and 2 of my pistons have water sitting on top of them.... So its something with the head gasket again. I got the head machined, new head gasket, sprayed down with the copper gasket, and reused original head bolts.... Now, that is where im thinking I may have went wrong. I have done quite a bit of research on this and some say the original HB will torque back down and be fine, and some say the threads get stretched and to replace them. I honestly have no idea which is correct. But what are the chances that's what causing my leak? I torqued the bolts down to 70 instead of the 61 specified by the manual to compensate for any possible loose threads. Or was I completely wrong in thinking that would work? Any help or opinions would be great.

 

Yes your head gasket is leaking.

I always recommend to never reuse the stock head bolts, they are stretched when they are torqued by the factory, they won't seal the head correct. your best bet is to pull the head again have the head hot tanked and cleaned and checked again, they shouldn't charge you much for it. I don't like the copper spray stuff i never heard anything good but failures with them but this is with used head gaskets and you stated that you sprayed a new head gasket which is not necessary only with old used gaskets. So get everything back down cleaned and dry off the piston heads and use a new head gasket no spray just a brand new one and i know its expensive but best to do it right the first time. Get a set of ARP head studs and reinstall the head and carefully double check everything and you should be golden. use this guide in the link for installing the ARP studs correctly. This guid is for building a LSvtec motor but the arp installation should be the same just get the ARP studs for your motor.

https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...0vtec-1676914/


ARP head studs installation. Another near mandatory upgrade. The ones you need for this hybrid setup are the GSR/ITR studs/bolts. Do NOT use the B16 or B18a/b studs. They are the incorrect length. First and foremost, make SURE that the holes are clean and clear of debri. The best way to do this is to spray brake cleaner or intake/carb cleaner down the holes, and use compressed air to blow out the cleaner and debri. Make sure to cover up the cylinders so that crap doesn't get into them though. Make sure to lube up both sides of the studs w/ ARP moly lube (which is included with their bolts), or with 30w oil (Not 10w30, but solid 30w), if you bought them used. Tighten the ARP head studs all the way down with an allen wrench, then back them off about a 1/4 turn (ARP recommends they are hand tight, and this is equivalent). But, beware. When they say handtight, they do not mean tighten them down with your hand. This is just silly because you can't thread the studs all the way down by hand; they won't all be even. What they mean is, thread the studs all the way to the bottom, but do not have the bolts applying any pressure to the block (no torque). You can also use the double nut technique, which is just putting two nuts on the stud, and using a socket or box wrench to tighten the upper nut. This will turn the stud because the lower nut will hold the upper nut in place. This will ensure that they are all at equal height. Do NOT torque the studs INTO the block. This will negate the whole reason you are using studs instead of bolts in the first place. The advantage of studs is this...the block will be "pulling" down on the head, which is the opposite force of combustion, as opposed to the head "pulling" up on the block, in the same direction as combustion, which is what the stock head bolts do. The studs help create a better seal.

 

Thanks for the advice, looks like im about to order some more parts and start over again...

 

Its ok it happens you live and you learn just don't stress over it, have fun do more research and do it better the next time.

 

well slap my *** and call my aunt sally.
finally someone explains why to only hand tighten them!
figured i could swap my head bolts for studs since i had some sitting around.
cylinder1 exhaust side gasket leaks now, re-torqued it stopped leaking
hit it with a timing light and all my timing marks went to hell
shut if off and turned it around with a socket to find out they are exactly where i left them
is it my distributor
maybe it is misfiring?
the crank pulley marks are two far retarded when i use a timing light and the distributor is all the way retarded, so if i advance the distributor it retards the timing marks more.

 

why would you jump the service check connector?

 

sounds like you have intake cam off a notch or two.