So, my DB2 has around 175+k miles on her...clean a$$ body... My input shaft bearings going bad in tranny. My malfunction is: I want to swap something fast...I want all ideas for around $3,000. I asked shop.. about 2k to reubild motor with stock internals..I was thinking maybe LS Vtec/B20 Vtec. I may pick up a jdm motor...use the B18 or B20 bottom end...rebuild my B17 head for my vtec and build the bottom end to support the vtec. I'm going like a hundred ways with this. Anyone have ideas. I even thought about keeping it a stock DB2..building it, yada yada...hella money..and not as fast as other setups. Anyone? LOL

 

the b17 is becoming a classic so part of me votes for a rebuild with upgraded internals (if your gonna do it, may as well build the **** out of it). OR you could do b20/vtec which is a wet dream, but there is no really reliable way of doing it, especially if youre having someone else do it for you. OR you could drop in a jdm b18c gsr or b18c5/b18c spec R. Its up to you. any pics of the current car?

 

It all depends on what your goal/use for this car is.
If you can find rods, build the B17. Sure it won't yield internet horsepower but it will be fun and reliable with a good tune.
The B17 is getting rare these days so you may just want to pull it and leave it untouched.


My96GSRteg, please enlighten us as to how "there is no reliable way" of doing a b20 or ls vtec?
Common misconceptions like this are old and outdated and clutter this forum with wrong information!

 

idk i heard the b17 head has less interchangable parts to do a frank

 

drop a b20z in there and just drive it around while you save up money for your build.

 

What ever you decided to do, make sure you keep your B17. It's rare enough to find the b17 itself, to have it with the original chassis

 

I just mean that i have seen a LOT of people do ls/vtec and it blows up in their faces (almost literally). There are many different ways of going about it, but most shops dont know what they are doing or have never done one before. and i only mention shops because OP made it sound like he wasnt doing this stuff himself.

dont get me wrong, b20/vtec is the pinnacle of builds imo.

 

good luck finding one of those in good condition, ive been searching since january, every single one needed to be either rebored or had a hole in it.

 

Uh I don't know where you are from but most shops I know have done tons.
When built poorly any engine is going to blow up. Most people build them improperly and attempt to rev them to the heavens, which is a leading cause of failure.

B20 vtec is not the pinnacle of builds, there is more out there.

 

I built a b20/vtec in my garage that still runs in SCCA time attack to this day after two years..

My opinions is to pull the B17, freshen it up with an OEM rebuild and drop it back in.

 

get eagle rods (google, they run like 320ish) get some Aries pistons, and a precision turbo... you will have a fun fast car that can actually hold good traction with higher WHP. Dont dump the b17, they are actually quick motors just have to fix her up... Even just PR3 (b16) pistons will wake the b17 up they have pretty low compression stock like 9.5 and b16 (pr3) will give you something like 10.5 to 11:1.

 

you missed the part where i said "in my opinion." I know there are many other build options out there. And where i am from, only a few shops do that stuff. Am i really the only one who has seen poorly built ls/vtecs? really??

 

I hate wen ppl say b20vtec and lsvtec are unreliable. My homies b20vtec has lasted 6 years and he recently replaced the block, only because the rings were toast.

And idk how its possible to poorly build one? All it is, is just replacing the head and get the timing correct. Simple enough. Of course if u use a f***ed up head or block, its gonna blow up, but if u can replace a headgasket, and run the oil line, thats all u really have to do mechanically.

 

There is so much crappy/wrong information on this site, it makes me sick. You should have to fill out an online application and a car I.Q. test.
Do some homework and think about what you want. What hp? What tq? How will you drive it? Where will you drive?

 

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater



So...I have decided to do a B20B/Vtec Conversion. Getting my work done at Fluid Motorsports in Tacoma, WA. Picking up the B20B motor, building the bottom end to hold the rpms, rebuilding my B17 head with supertech valves, etc. And also rebuilding the tranny (input shaft bearing noise . Doing my power steering delete and a.c. delete also. I intend to keep the b17 bottom end to future plans undecided.. hope th pics worked

 

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

 

I'm about to be in the same boat, I've got a aztec green db2 with 128k original miles. Honestly, I plan on keeping the b17 block and head and trying different OEM/JDM internals and possibly a set of TODA or ITR cams.
I've deleted the a/c, abs - PS is next with a manual rack and quaife quick-ratio rack. Then CTR N1 crank and a total balance and blueprint. Can't go wrong with OEM - find a b-series compression calculator and see what numbers you can come up with.
CLEAN *** GSR btw.

 

Ok, where do I start? I want to try to clear up a few things for those who come to these forums to get good information so they can proceed with whatever project they happen to be working on. Hope this helps:
#1 - The b20/vtec frank is by far the pinnacle of all the b series motors if it's done properly. That being said, there's a bit more to it than just slapping a vtec head on there and running an oil line. If done right, you'll need to run a jumper wire from the appropriate pin in the ECU to the VTEC solenoid. Its also critical to hook up the knock sensor unless you're running a Hondata (or equivalent).

#2 - The stock b17a1 came with a compression rating of 9.7:1, the b16a1 (with pr3 pistons) came with 10.2:1 so if your looking for a compression bump, you can go with the pr3 OEM pistons if you want. I'd go for a nice set of ITR's...this will get you right at that sweet spot 10.8:1, now add the .02 with your stock GS-R head and ahhhh, the delicious and highly sought after 11:1 - reliability,and pump gas...gotta love it. I would not spend the cash on an aftermarket set of eagle rods unless you plan on boosting. The stock rods and crank in these b motors are very well built. You will have to shave about 1mm off each side of the small end of your stock rod to put on the ITR or CTR piston but any machine shop can do this easily. (btw, good luck finding a CTR piston without paying $500-$600 for 4 pistons and rings, save your $ and go with the ITR)

#3 - If it's me, i'm definately dropping in a set of ITR cams, valves, springs, and retainers. These are all OEM and all readily available from your local stealership.

Last, with some basic bolt-ons like the obvious I/H/E, and a Hondata with a good tune...you can expect 200+ whp! It'll fun as hell to drive and you 'll have the reliability of a good, stock Honda.

You don't come across the b17 very often, as a b series lover, i say rebuid it right and preserve the integrity of this rare block. Have fun!

 

If we made everyone take a test before joining, there would never be anyone to teach things to, therefore no reason to have the website. If someone's misinformed don't flame them for it, explain it to them and how they are wrong. Honda tech has slowed down a lot since I joined, mostly because the import scene has shrank and shifted to factory fab "race"sports cars. Which makes me sick but w/e. But, also because new, novice, Honda enthusiests are off put by ******** and jerkoff know-it-alls who bash them for asking "stupid" questions. None of us should be like that. Nurture not torture. Also OP where u is in Wa?

 

I agree, instead of a test, why don't we have people go through and delete incorrect info/label it as incorrect, or move all the threads with bad info/incorrect info into an unsearchable archive folder.

The biggest problem is a lot of people search for the same thing, and wind up finding pages with bad info, and they trust it over and over again. Eventually bad, incorrect info gets burned into everyones brain as correct, so they pass along the bad info like a virus.

I'm actually glad the import scene has shrank. I'm also glad that the honda scene has shifted away from the ricer trend and has moved back to more modest forms of styling modifications, and more performance oriented builds. Compared to the stock single cam, 4in exhaust, 2000 dollar body kit, 3000 dollar paint jobs you used to see in the early 2000's

There is a LOT of good info out there, you just have to be diligent while sifting through all the information to make sure what you're reading is good info, or bad info.

 

I agree that its good that the kids with the terrible cars are gone, but the stigma of Honda's being ricers is still there. At least as far as I've seen. I feel it was due to the sudden shift to the factory fab awd turbo cars while kids still put whale tails and fart cans on their Hondas and called it a race car. Honda made terrific cars in the 90s and I'm pretty sure I will never own any car long term except 90s Honda's. But I feel without the support of a large base of Honda enthusiests, Honda will never quite shed the stigma of "ricer". Its sometimes actual ignorance of cars and sometimes ignorance of Honda's but it makes me sick in the pit of my stomach when someone refers to my car as a ricer. I've put a lot of work into it, far more than most ppl do. I've had it for going on 9 years now, and we've been through a lot my car and me. I had my car legitimately beating z06's at the strip when it was in its prime, but still I was labeled as a "ricer". I just want people to realize the amount of dedication that comes with a true Honda tuner. Srry for the tyrade.

 

what are you going to do with the B17?

is it for sale?

 

2011, not sure why it was revived.
I do agree, however, with an old poster. I would set #'s matching b17 to the side and build on something else. Time capsule that sh%t! Unfortunately, Hondas will always be labeled "ricers" because of people putting way too much $ into coffee cans and shopping cart wings on stock turds done with horrible taste. Most people go for image over performance, they're the ones to blame.

 

Lol didn't realize it was so old. I agree with you about the form over function ideal. My car looks like ****, but its a beast. I catch flack from ********* all the time because of it. I'm not gonna dump any money intohow it looks until iI'm satisfied with its performance. One day tho the bondo beast will be beautiful, just not until it can stomp most cars in the dirt. And there's something satisfying about my homely looking junker making ppls shiny new stuff look like toys.

 

Yesss, its much fun to beat on pretty toys w/a regular/beater looking car. They Never see it coming and its like a slap in the face when it happens. F%ck looks, last on my shopping list too.