stiff suspension setup
anything over 200 front and rear is good... i'm lookin ta the RS*R race springs. they are progressive springs tho
i'd rather have linear springs for that crisper feel.
i'd rather have linear springs for that crisper feel.
It really depends upon what you're trying to accomplish. Do you plan on autocrossing or road racing, and how low are you trying to go? Also, have you considered running the controversial "stiff as hell up front, soft as **** in the rear" setup? It's really good for creating oversteer to help the car rotate easier and be more controlled.
well I'll be getting 15" rota's asap, and I'll be keeping stock body, so I want to go as low as I can, probably race springs.
I was thinking H&R Race Springs with 800lbs/in for front and 1200lbs/in for the rears. The exact same setup spoon used in terms of lbs/in for their auto-x car.
My goals are for auto-x, so I want really stiff with no bodyroll
I was thinking H&R Race Springs with 800lbs/in for front and 1200lbs/in for the rears. The exact same setup spoon used in terms of lbs/in for their auto-x car.
My goals are for auto-x, so I want really stiff with no bodyroll
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kbplaya »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking H&R Race Springs with 800lbs/in for front and 1200lbs/in for the rears. The exact same setup spoon used in terms of lbs/in for their auto-x car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But are you running the exact tire size and compound that Spoon is? What about chassis braces, vehicle balance, and a thousand other variables? Spoon chose those spring rates to offer the best handling given all of those set variables. Being that your car isn't set up exactly the same way, they may not be ideal spring rates. I don't think it's a bad idea, however, to start with those spring rates, and then experiment from there.
But are you running the exact tire size and compound that Spoon is? What about chassis braces, vehicle balance, and a thousand other variables? Spoon chose those spring rates to offer the best handling given all of those set variables. Being that your car isn't set up exactly the same way, they may not be ideal spring rates. I don't think it's a bad idea, however, to start with those spring rates, and then experiment from there.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It really depends upon what you're trying to accomplish. Do you plan on autocrossing or road racing, and how low are you trying to go? Also, have you considered running the controversial "stiff as hell up front, soft as **** in the rear" setup? It's really good for creating oversteer to help the car rotate easier and be more controlled.</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, i've had enough of oversteer. thast what got me into my accident. who says a stock LS can't oversteer?? cuz i got the damage of when it broke loose so ******* easy. my freind who was wiht me said it was like punching the gas on a rwd car and cranking the wheel. granted it was on a turn but damn it broke loose so easy. funny thing is, that when it broke loose it was smooth, i countersteered perfectly. i just gave it too much gas which whipped it around and i slid the other way. then i had no choice but to hit the brakes to bleed off as much force before impact.
eh, i've had enough of oversteer. thast what got me into my accident. who says a stock LS can't oversteer?? cuz i got the damage of when it broke loose so ******* easy. my freind who was wiht me said it was like punching the gas on a rwd car and cranking the wheel. granted it was on a turn but damn it broke loose so easy. funny thing is, that when it broke loose it was smooth, i countersteered perfectly. i just gave it too much gas which whipped it around and i slid the other way. then i had no choice but to hit the brakes to bleed off as much force before impact.
I run 8k fonr and 6 k rear, dunno what its in american but you can look it up. and its pretty nice for autox but you will get ris of most your body roll with huge sway bars instead of relyeing on only springs to reduce roll.
I'm actually running 14k in the front and 6k in the rear and it's amazing. I could use a larger rear anti roll bar, but I'll have to wait and find a good deal on one. Just don't assume that stiffer = better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k279 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didnt think koni yellows out of the box could last with rates over the 400-500lbs
range. I have H&R coilovers they are around 350. Way too soft for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
koni provides a revavling service. i think it's like $85+shipping, per shock. beefier valves
range. I have H&R coilovers they are around 350. Way too soft for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>koni provides a revavling service. i think it's like $85+shipping, per shock. beefier valves
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