starter troubles??!?!?!?
i fear that my starter could be going on me. Car will not start on first attempt. IN fact starter will not even turn. Just many clicks for about 10-20 turns of the key. Cant afford a new one right now with school and now job. Will any other model honda/acura have a starter that i might could pic up used or junkyarded for cheap???
I had this EXACT SAME ISSUE on my '94 LS; It is the starter contacts.
Parts will run you about $20-30 and it took my mech an hour and a half to replace. The problem is finding a mech that will do the work because most just want to replace the starter.
The thing is the problem WILL GET WORSE. Mine started with just a few turns, then gradually degenerated to 25, 50, 100, 150+ turns/clicks before it would start over the course of a 6-8 months. Finally, one day I gave up and towed it in to the shop. I haven't had a single prob since he replaced the contacts four months ago.
Parts will run you about $20-30 and it took my mech an hour and a half to replace. The problem is finding a mech that will do the work because most just want to replace the starter.
The thing is the problem WILL GET WORSE. Mine started with just a few turns, then gradually degenerated to 25, 50, 100, 150+ turns/clicks before it would start over the course of a 6-8 months. Finally, one day I gave up and towed it in to the shop. I haven't had a single prob since he replaced the contacts four months ago.
Hmm, I'm not sure exactly where the contacts are, but here's a page that might explain it further:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/starter/
From what I understand, it's the solenoid contacts.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/starter/
From what I understand, it's the solenoid contacts.
If it's clicking and not starting. I believe it's an electrical problem, not the starter itself. Like the dude said, it's the contacts.. I believe you can just clean them or replace them. But did you happen to take the time to do a starter draw to see if it's drawing enough current to help it turn over..?..
Trending Topics
enlighen me as to what a starter draw is?
and as far as a used unit....like i said, no job right now and school keeps me real busy.
A starter draw is a test to measure how much amperage the starter is drawing in it's initial start up. I'm pretty sure that most starters should pull 200amps of power to crank the car. To do this, you'll need either a VAT-40 or an Ammeter or Multimeter that will measure more than 200amps. Once you've got that, all you have to do is place the magnetic clip lead over the power wire that goes upstream to the starter. And that should measure how much amperage the starter is taking from the battery. But here's food for thought. Did you happen to check to see if you've got enough voltage in the battery?? Because the car won't run if it sees anything less than 9volts..
And since you're not working. My best advice would be to see if you're school's got an automotive mechanic program. If it does, see if they'll help do a starter draw on your car with a VAT-40. Because school's usually give free laber when working on a customer's car. And parts are usually 10% to 15% off..
[Modified by PnX-R, 10:04 AM 9/28/2002]
And since you're not working. My best advice would be to see if you're school's got an automotive mechanic program. If it does, see if they'll help do a starter draw on your car with a VAT-40. Because school's usually give free laber when working on a customer's car. And parts are usually 10% to 15% off..
[Modified by PnX-R, 10:04 AM 9/28/2002]
A starter draw is a test to measure how much amperage the starter is drawing in it's initial start up. I'm pretty sure that most starters should pull 200amps of power to crank the car. To do this, you'll need either a VAT-40 or an Ammeter or Multimeter that will measure more than 200amps. Once you've got that, all you have to do is place the magnetic clip lead over the power wire that goes upstream to the starter. And that should measure how much amperage the starter is taking from the battery. But here's food for thought. Did you happen to check to see if you've got enough voltage in the battery?? Because the car won't run if it sees anything less than 9volts..
And since you're not working. My best advice would be to see if you're school's got an automotive mechanic program. If it does, see if they'll help do a starter draw on your car with a VAT-40. Because school's usually give free laber when working on a customer's car. And parts are usually 10% to 15% off..
[Modified by PnX-R, 10:04 AM 9/28/2002]
And since you're not working. My best advice would be to see if you're school's got an automotive mechanic program. If it does, see if they'll help do a starter draw on your car with a VAT-40. Because school's usually give free laber when working on a customer's car. And parts are usually 10% to 15% off..
[Modified by PnX-R, 10:04 AM 9/28/2002]
UPDATE: Tested the starter, got the car to an autoarts store where it was tested for draw and was determined that it was the starter that was indeed no functioning properly. One reman. starter to the rescue. Oh well, what can ya do.
i went through the same thing recently, it is a very easy fix. do not pay a mechanic to do it since you can pop it out yourself in 15min. either take it off and have it rebuilt, which will cost you $100. or buy a junk yard one, i picked one up for 20 and droped it in myself. another interesting thing is that you can actully use a D series starter as well, found this out when replacing mine. HTH
its probably not the starter. its probably a bad ground or something electrical. i have had the same problem with the clicking often and its always been a bad ground
you can use any b-series starter. i got mine at a junkyard for $65. their really is no need to get a mechanic to replace it, its easy to do your self.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TiffanyJJ08
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
7
Oct 3, 2005 12:35 PM



