Should there be a bolt here? Basic mainance questions.
*Sorry for typo, doing it on my phone*
Basic maintenance questions
94 LS with GSR swap. (Done by PO) Well! I've had my Tegg for about a year and a half with next to no problems. But I'm getting it ready for winter and lots of driving so I was going to do the fuel filter. Failed at that, the fuel line nut sucks and was starting to strip so it'll be done at a shop. Anyway, saw this. Should there be a bolt here?! It's been covered by the SRI this whole time. Looks to me like a motor mount/trans mount. But I'm a Jeep guy.
I scrubbed it so you can see better. It was all black.
Also, where should this line go? Seems like I'm missing something...?
Finally, what does this ground strap do? The mount is stripped.
Previous owner is probably reading this laughing.
Basic maintenance questions
94 LS with GSR swap. (Done by PO) Well! I've had my Tegg for about a year and a half with next to no problems. But I'm getting it ready for winter and lots of driving so I was going to do the fuel filter. Failed at that, the fuel line nut sucks and was starting to strip so it'll be done at a shop. Anyway, saw this. Should there be a bolt here?! It's been covered by the SRI this whole time. Looks to me like a motor mount/trans mount. But I'm a Jeep guy.
I scrubbed it so you can see better. It was all black. Also, where should this line go? Seems like I'm missing something...?
Finally, what does this ground strap do? The mount is stripped.
Previous owner is probably reading this laughing.
The first set of pics is not just missing a bolt something went there im not sure what exactly maybe a grounding? the hose missing off the throttle body is a breather that connects onto the stock intake pipe, not necessary as far as i know and if that ground is connected to the ps pump keep it if its connected the bay frame you don't really need its just to ground out the motor. most things have a purpose though so if you can retap it or get a sae bolt next size up it wouldn't hurt
Well, that's a good thing to hear. Anyone have more specific ideas?
Yeah, sorry not a good picture on the last one. It goes to the body, or frame, to ground the valve cover, I would guess.
Yeah, sorry not a good picture on the last one. It goes to the body, or frame, to ground the valve cover, I would guess.
the first pic is your trans mount!! it needs 3 bolts!!!!! it's not even bolted to the trans.
2nd, is a breather hose thats suppose to go to a black box to the right and down from the battery, it's usually roundish with 3 (i think) hoses for it, It's called a Charcoal Canister.
3rd, just pop the nut off the valves cover and put the ground there
2nd, is a breather hose thats suppose to go to a black box to the right and down from the battery, it's usually roundish with 3 (i think) hoses for it, It's called a Charcoal Canister.
3rd, just pop the nut off the valves cover and put the ground there
mount the ground wire to the bolt on the valve cover.
fitting on the top of throttle body runs to evap canister.
your missing 2 studs with nuts and a bolt for the top tranny mount. Crazy how you have none of that there. car must vibrate a lot.
fitting on the top of throttle body runs to evap canister.
your missing 2 studs with nuts and a bolt for the top tranny mount. Crazy how you have none of that there. car must vibrate a lot.
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the first pic is your trans mount!! it needs 3 bolts!!!!! it's not even bolted to the trans.
2nd, is a breather hose thats suppose to go to a black box to the right and down from the battery, it's usually roundish with 3 (i think) hoses for it, It's called a Charcoal Canister.
3rd, just pop the nut off the valves cover and put the ground there
2nd, is a breather hose thats suppose to go to a black box to the right and down from the battery, it's usually roundish with 3 (i think) hoses for it, It's called a Charcoal Canister.
3rd, just pop the nut off the valves cover and put the ground there
Seriously. Shoot dang.
Advice on where to go to get bolts? and/or sizes?
There isn't even a stud there... so...... thoughts?
junkyard. it'll be the exact size and even show you what all your missing if its not too gutted. you should actually just go "shopping" to replace all those things from the junkyard or parts car. Also go get a tap/die set it'll come in hella handy especially since stuff from your bay seems literally ripped out
junkyard. it'll be the exact size and even show you what all your missing if its not too gutted. you should actually just go "shopping" to replace all those things from the junkyard or parts car. Also go get a tap/die set it'll come in hella handy especially since stuff from your bay seems literally ripped out
Went to the Junk yard last week to find integras..... not a one....
well other than traveling a bit around your town go get a hanes or chiltons manual whichever you prefer and look at the pictures and figure out what you need. most people on craigslist dont mind mailing parts if you pay the extra shipping
Just called Acura dealer, they don't have that kind of thing, unless I want a whole new mount that is $289.
So, guess I'm back down to... Bolt Size? Anyone?
So, guess I'm back down to... Bolt Size? Anyone?
there the same bolts that all civics use in that exact mount aswell.you don't need a mount you need the studs and the nuts.
call acura tell them you need the studs. not the mount.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...3sr301_b47.png
you need 2 #33 and 2#31 and 1 #41
90380-SR3-000 033 002 BOLT, STUD (12X57.6) 6.75
call acura tell them you need the studs. not the mount.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...3sr301_b47.png
you need 2 #33 and 2#31 and 1 #41
90380-SR3-000 033 002 BOLT, STUD (12X57.6) 6.75
no, but do NOT force a bolt, stud into those holes if they are too long, you can crack the trans casing by forcing a longer bolt into the hole.
The studs are the two outer holes. Get them and the Nuts from Honda, might as well get the center bolt from there too. My one stud hole was stripped on the case. I used a Time-sert to re-thread it to the original size. Not exactly cheap but neither was my upgraded GSR trans so I felt it was justified.
The studs are threaded and SCREW in. You can absolutely install them, You use both the nuts locked against one another to screw the studs in and thread lock them tightly in place. The proper studs from Honda WILL NOT screw in past a certain point thus protecting the case from cracking.
The studs are threaded and SCREW in. You can absolutely install them, You use both the nuts locked against one another to screw the studs in and thread lock them tightly in place. The proper studs from Honda WILL NOT screw in past a certain point thus protecting the case from cracking.
The studs are the two outer holes. Get them and the Nuts from Honda, might as well get the center bolt from there too. My one stud hole was stripped on the case. I used a Time-sert to re-thread it to the original size. Not exactly cheap but neither was my upgraded GSR trans so I felt it was justified.
The studs are threaded and SCREW in. You can absolutely install them, You use both the nuts locked against one another to screw the studs in and thread lock them tightly in place. The proper studs from Honda WILL NOT screw in past a certain point thus protecting the case from cracking.
The studs are threaded and SCREW in. You can absolutely install them, You use both the nuts locked against one another to screw the studs in and thread lock them tightly in place. The proper studs from Honda WILL NOT screw in past a certain point thus protecting the case from cracking.
Well thank you, I saw that today. I order the bolts from Acura this morning, should be here Tuesday.
2 more questions.
1) how bad is it to drive right now?
2) Time-Sert? I'll cross my fingers that I don't need to find out what that is or how to do it?!
From a simple google search it looks like a high class Tap kit, which I think I can rent...
Very high class. It WILL be stronger than the original threads. Several high HP aluminum block forced induction cars have drilled out perfectly good head stud threads to re-thread with time-serts. All the head stud holes on my DOHC ZC are time serted, 8 out of 10 were FINE when I drilled them out by choice, no leaks 4K later.
New case cost the same, can be stripped again, and it's a LOT more work.
As for how bad it is to drive I'm amazed you haven't noticed an issue. You must have the PS torque mount and the rear mount in VERY good condition if it's not jumping all over the damn place in there. I would NOT drive it like that. how long have you been driving it like that without issue just out of curiosity?
New case cost the same, can be stripped again, and it's a LOT more work.
As for how bad it is to drive I'm amazed you haven't noticed an issue. You must have the PS torque mount and the rear mount in VERY good condition if it's not jumping all over the damn place in there. I would NOT drive it like that. how long have you been driving it like that without issue just out of curiosity?
As for how bad it is to drive I'm amazed you haven't noticed an issue. You must have the PS torque mount and the rear mount in VERY good condition if it's not jumping all over the damn place in there. I would NOT drive it like that. how long have you been driving it like that without issue just out of curiosity?
Well. Very possibly... a year.
But I noticed it last week and put on 500 miles this week. Part comes in tomorrow.
Um. Not sure. They look shiny though! The trans is a OEM for sure. I got the 2 studs in, but the bolt hole is stripped out, so I'll have to tap for it next week.





