It took me forever to figure out what could be wrong with the car, but I looked at the wiring on the ecu and it all seems to be wired up right, but when I did the vacuum check like the helms says to do it was all messed up. I stopped there and did not dig deeper for answers, because I was adjusting the valves and changing the gaskets, etc.

So thats the reason the car seems to lack power I guess, and that makes me angry because the stupid shop that put in the motor must've never wired it up, and they are outta business so i'll never see them again. So now I have a few options, I can either fix the stupid thing and experience the full potential of the stock manifold.......or replace it with the skunk2 manifold. I havent given it the full diagnostic, so assuming that I have to get a new vacuum tank and whatnot, wouln't it be better to get the skunk 2?

I know that some of you will say "if you get the skunk2 manifold you'll lose power, yada yada yada" but I do plan on getting stage 2's and hondata and all that good stuff, so it will serve its purpose in the future. I am planning on getting a hondata to tune it all up, but first I would like to have a working manifold so I can gain my power back. Mainly to prove the point that there was something wrong with my car, because my friends think I cannot drive my car, even though I get 2.2 60's and still run 15's alot.

 

lack power were? the only place you`ll gain with the 2ndarys is some trq in the low end range

check your ignition timing, it may be off a tad

anyhoos back to the 2ndarys, hey if your not gonna be getting new aftermarket cams or chipping the ecu anytime soon, keep the dual runner IM of the GS-R, the parts you need to wire them up are as follows: IAB solenoid - IAB vaccum tank and some vaccum lines...also on the ecu side, make sure the proper switch was made at a17/a20

-good luck





[Modified by hybrider93, 1:14 PM 4/29/2002]

 

Get the S2 Intake Manifold, and bore out your TB to match it. The GS-R Intake Manifold is a POS IMO.

 

How much torque are we talking about here? I put a GSR into an LS body and never wired the iab wires. Also I have a NOS vtec plate in the intake manifold that I never used, so my secondaries are not present. The car lacks power. I don' t know what to do.

 

The lack of midrange is really a combination of things... I went through the same thing. If you just replace the intake manifold you will still have bogging issues brecause of the P72 ECU. The P72 ECU's program is designed specifically for a dual stage intake manifold. If you notice the GSR has a very low vtec engagement compared to other Hondas, this is because the dual stage IM aloows VTEC to come in that early without the engine bogging down. Then when it opens up at around 52-5400 everything is just right. Trust me, I've been there done that with this setup. basically you either need to
A. get the IAB working properly which if it costs too much is a waste of money.
B. Get a Skunk intake manifold and a chipped P28 (that will give you the prformance your looking for)
C. Just get a chipped P28 (the secondaries are always open on a GSR head so this may work OK) You'll be able to use the chipped P28 in the fute for Hondata anyway.
Sell your P72m you can get good money for those 250+ and buy a chipped P28 from Adrian at http://www.hyperducktuning.com

HTH

Gerry(4drGSR)

 

Great advice. Thanks for the info.

I plan on replacing the Vtec plate system and putting back the stock butterflies. What are the procedures of wiring the IAB wires? I tried to do this before but I haven't really noticed any difference. Also the car started to smoke. So I wasn't sure if I did it right. Help a fellow import brother out. Thanks

 

s2im

 

The IAB wires are really only half of how the system works. I'm pretty sure they are only giving the solenoid an idea of what RPM the motor is at so that it can cause the solenoid to open the butterflies. When the car is started the vaccum causes the butterflies to close, then when the IAB receives a signal from the computer it releases the vacuum which opens up the butterflies. I'm not a Honda engineer but this is how I think the system works. As for wiring it up, I'm pretty sure you can find the wiring info around here somewhere, its a yellow and black wire and another color (just two) then you need the connector to plug it into the cannister.

 

hehe, alexboy knows what time it is... How did I know you would chime in? Seriosly though... get a Skunk2 IM and some type of Single runner IM type ECU(p28 chipped). You will notice a worl of difference trust me, its night and day.

 

Why would i need the single runner ecu? I have been told that it will not throw a code either way and the only difference is that it will bog because of the low vtec engagement point, but by using a vafc, or hondata (which would be the better buy with their lower prices) I should be able to tune out the problems associated with the vtec and whatnot.

I am just going by what other people have told me my problem was with my SLOW times, I mean why would I run a 14.9 with a 2.2 60'??? It dont make sense, so I double checked everything, including the timing, etc, and I have so far nailed it down to being the IAB thing for sure, because I performed a vaccum test and it told me that it wasnt working right.

So I am gonna give this IAB thing a second chance and go over it all this weekend, but if I get it working right and its still losing power, then I'm going to start buying little things to get it set up for some major dyno tuning.