BoldFart16

My B18C didn't want to start and was bogging and all sorts of weird stuff and threw a code. Code 14. Bad IACV. I replaced it and bam everything was golden for about 100 miles or so, then out of nowhere the same exact symptoms. Threw a code 14. Square one again. I bought an OEM Nissin IACV mind you, I always buy Honda Genuine parts. I find it hard to believe that I got a faulty IACV from Honda, so I'm thinking that something might be causing my IACVs to go bad. Any ideas? Bad map on my chipped p28? Bad ECU all together maybe? Wire shorting out somewhere?

crazybeanery0

What intake manifold do you have (OEM, ITR, Skunk2, Blox, etc.)? Also, are you using a stock harness or have you modified it at all? Along with the new IACV, did you replace the o-ring gasket for it?

36455-PV0-000 - GASKET, ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROLVALVE (KEIHIN)

BoldFart16

Yeah I replaced the gasket. Intake is a replica ITR for B18C, could be an old blox or skunk2 or something. I have an Apexi VAFC spliced into the harness.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

You bought a Nissan IACV? To be honest your car will run better without the VAFC.

BoldFart16

NISSIN.

And yes I know the VAFC is pointless. It's a remnant of a time when tuning wasn't as inexpensive and less widely available.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Get a probe light or a multimeter and check for voltage at your IACV.

BoldFart16

Figured it out. Previous owner cut one of the wires to the IACV and repaired it. It just popped out of the sleeve. I didn't notice this before because the sleeve was covered in a ton of electrical tape. In doing this I must have screwed up my TPS sensor somehow, because now it's throwing code 7.

crazybeanery0

Good job man. Glad you figured it out. When I re-did my harness, I always soldered + heat shrank my wires if I had to cut them to lengthen/shorten them. This is preferred over crimping/doing whatever the last guy did