Replacing brake pads
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 732
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From: In a land where VTEC doesnt exist
Is this easy to go? What tools do I need? Should I replace all 4 at once or just the bad one? Stock acura pads or aftermarket? I have a 95 GSR with 150k.
it's definitely not hard. if u change any..change the front ones.
you'll need to jack up the car to take off the wheel. take off the bottom caliper bolt that holds the pad clamp(? dont really know what it's call lol). flip up the pad clamp
, take off the clips and lift the pads out. put on the brake pad goop to keep them from squeeking. get a c-clamp and push the piston out to make room for the new pads. put the pad in, the clips, flip the clamp down, and screw bolt back on. ur done. the backs are almost similar but i know i missed somethign for the back however i can't remember what
you'll need to jack up the car to take off the wheel. take off the bottom caliper bolt that holds the pad clamp(? dont really know what it's call lol). flip up the pad clamp
, take off the clips and lift the pads out. put on the brake pad goop to keep them from squeeking. get a c-clamp and push the piston out to make room for the new pads. put the pad in, the clips, flip the clamp down, and screw bolt back on. ur done. the backs are almost similar but i know i missed somethign for the back however i can't remember what
12mm and 14mm sockets
big flat head screw driver ( to push piston back) turn CW when you do this.
pads
Anti-shock lubricant
put towel around Master cylinder
get some Hawk pads
big flat head screw driver ( to push piston back) turn CW when you do this.
pads
Anti-shock lubricant
put towel around Master cylinder
get some Hawk pads
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool good info.
does this sound most def like brake pad problem? hate to do it and find out its a no fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are the symptoms of your problem??
does this sound most def like brake pad problem? hate to do it and find out its a no fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are the symptoms of your problem??
Team-integra.net has a pretty good how-to for changing brake pads. It's chock full of pictures of how they do it, so it shouldn't be all too hard. No need to go for anything other than OEM pads unless you track your car or are planning on using other upgraded brake parts.
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Just got done changing mines actually, on the rears you're really going to just need to take the wheel off, two 10mm bolt that is the dust cover/shield, then take two 12mm bolts off that holds the calipers onto the pads, pull the pad off, and you're going to have to twist the piston back in on the rears, on the fronts you c-clamp them. grease up the brake pads and bolts. I just changed mines and it didn't fix the grinding/squealing noises. Sucks maybe i need to resurface my rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00IntegrAllmotoR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12mm and 14mm sockets
big flat head screw driver ( to push piston back) turn CW when you do this.
pads
Anti-shock lubricant
put towel around Master cylinder
get some Hawk pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
also a string so you can tie the caliper up so that the hose does not hang. get a helms, it explains how to do it.
also if you are gunna replace, make sure you replace both the rears or both the fronts. never replace one side only (for examlpe driver side rear was replaced and pass rear was not).
big flat head screw driver ( to push piston back) turn CW when you do this.
pads
Anti-shock lubricant
put towel around Master cylinder
get some Hawk pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
also a string so you can tie the caliper up so that the hose does not hang. get a helms, it explains how to do it.
also if you are gunna replace, make sure you replace both the rears or both the fronts. never replace one side only (for examlpe driver side rear was replaced and pass rear was not).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is constant when I accelerate. When I stop it goes away. SHould I go the 9 yards and get the rotors done to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's a humming noise at higher speeds like 40mph+ then it's probably your wheel bearing that needs to be replaced. You would need to have a shop replace that. And they don't sell brake pads in half sets either it's in sets of pairs.
If it's a humming noise at higher speeds like 40mph+ then it's probably your wheel bearing that needs to be replaced. You would need to have a shop replace that. And they don't sell brake pads in half sets either it's in sets of pairs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juicyfn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also a string so you can tie the caliper up so that the hose does not hang. get a helms, it explains how to do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I took mine and rotated them upside down and they will rest on top of the rotor as you work on it.
also a string so you can tie the caliper up so that the hose does not hang. get a helms, it explains how to do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I took mine and rotated them upside down and they will rest on top of the rotor as you work on it.
Buy a cheap Haynes manual or download the Helm manual.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals
Nobody has mentioned checking the rotors for proper thickness (safety issue) or runout. It is covered in both of those manuals.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals
Nobody has mentioned checking the rotors for proper thickness (safety issue) or runout. It is covered in both of those manuals.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: In a land where VTEC doesnt exist
the humming starts as soon as i start moving faster then a couple MPH. Am i damaging it more by driving it on a daily basis?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fizzion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I took mine and rotated them upside down and they will rest on top of the rotor as you work on it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did this but it kept slipping off
I took mine and rotated them upside down and they will rest on top of the rotor as you work on it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i did this but it kept slipping off
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's you're not damaging anything, you can get it fix when you like, just depends on how annoying it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you retarded? do you know how important brakes are?
yes he is damaging it more. the are probably metal to metal now. you need to take your rotors off and have them turned. they will measure it when you take them to whatever shopyou go to. if it is to thin to turn you will need new rotors (replace both at the same time)
are you retarded? do you know how important brakes are?
yes he is damaging it more. the are probably metal to metal now. you need to take your rotors off and have them turned. they will measure it when you take them to whatever shopyou go to. if it is to thin to turn you will need new rotors (replace both at the same time)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DirtyBirdJR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you retarded? do you know how important brakes are?
yes he is damaging it more. the are probably metal to metal now. you need to take your rotors off and have them turned. they will measure it when you take them to whatever shopyou go to. if it is to thin to turn you will need new rotors (replace both at the same time) </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you read what I posted above? I was talking about the wheel bearing, not rotors. Read befor you try to insult me.
yes he is damaging it more. the are probably metal to metal now. you need to take your rotors off and have them turned. they will measure it when you take them to whatever shopyou go to. if it is to thin to turn you will need new rotors (replace both at the same time) </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you read what I posted above? I was talking about the wheel bearing, not rotors. Read befor you try to insult me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you read what I posted above? I was talking about wheel bearing, not rotors. Read befor you try to insult me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are retarded becouse your reply is nothing specific
Did you read what I posted above? I was talking about wheel bearing, not rotors. Read befor you try to insult me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are retarded becouse your reply is nothing specific
oh so your a big tough guy from texas who thinks he knows about cars
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's you're not damaging anything, you can get it fix when you like, just depends on how annoying it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
again nothin specific..... and if a wheel bearing comes apart i cant even begen where to start of how muh damage. so you STFU
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's you're not damaging anything, you can get it fix when you like, just depends on how annoying it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
again nothin specific..... and if a wheel bearing comes apart i cant even begen where to start of how muh damage. so you STFU
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's a humming noise at higher speeds like 40mph+ then it's probably your wheel bearing that needs to be replaced. You would need to have a shop replace that. And they don't sell brake pads in half sets either it's in sets of pairs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the humming starts as soon as i start moving faster then a couple MPH. Am i damaging it more by driving it on a daily basis?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's you're not damaging anything, you can get it fix when you like, just depends on how annoying it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the hell is this not specific? Please tell me. And when did I say I claim I knew anything? You here trying to flame me for something I wasn't even talking about in the first place. I've been fine with driving around with my wheel bearing humming for a long *** time. Again tell me where I was not being specific?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the humming starts as soon as i start moving faster then a couple MPH. Am i damaging it more by driving it on a daily basis?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shyboy817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's you're not damaging anything, you can get it fix when you like, just depends on how annoying it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the hell is this not specific? Please tell me. And when did I say I claim I knew anything? You here trying to flame me for something I wasn't even talking about in the first place. I've been fine with driving around with my wheel bearing humming for a long *** time. Again tell me where I was not being specific?


