So the motor in my DA isn't doing so healthy. There's a good chance that it's about to go pretty soon....so im pretty much looking for another b18a/b.

What i'm basically deciding on is replace or rebuild. I've looked through craigslist and you can find b18s that claim 100k miles for around $3-400 bucks. But the thing is you can't really tell how reliable these sellers are. Could be piece of crap aluminum paper weights...there's really no way of telling how one of those motors would run.

A rebuild kit like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1
costs just as much as a used b18a/b but you get a fresh start with zero miles.

What do you guys think? What should i do? Are those rebuild kits worth it or are they a waste of money? It looks like it has everything you would need to rebuild a motor.

 

Personally, i would not trust a rebuild kit like that.

If you plan on keeping the motor stock, then i would just take my chances with buying a used motor from someone. But if you have plan on doing anything to the motor, then i would just go with the rebuild because it would just be cheaper to fork up the cash now and have the motor built the way you want it.

Ali

 

First, do some tests (compression test and leak down if needed) on your engine to see if you have legitimate problems or if you just skipped a tooth on your timing belt or need a tune up, or something simple like that.

I am in your same situation. I have 300,300 miles on my B18A (still runs like a charm to redline), but instead of doing a stock rebuild, I am spending about the same amount of money and doing a performance rebuild.

The only expense over a normal rebuild will be the headwork, and Crower parts; springs, retainers, 404 camshafts (used $200). Then the tuning will be an added expense.

I will save some money on some of the typical rebuild parts such as:
Hastings piston rings $56 as apposed to OEM for over $100
ACL bearings for $58 as apposed to OEM for over $200
PR3 pistons (look like new) to raise compression used for $60 OEM over $200
OEM headgasket and seals will be used.

These savings alone help with the head improvement costs. Tuning will be thru crome and a wideband.

I will use ARP rod bolts, Blox IM $165, FPR and gauge, and a decent header (undecided--maybe the Hooker header on sale at Prostreet online for $128).

So my B18A rebuild will be like a brand new engine with mostly all new parts and will be cheaper than buying a B16A/B18C from an importer--which would need a partial rebuild itself probably anyway, but will yeild between 165 and 175 whp with a nice torque curve as evidenced from other builds that I have researched with the exact same mods.

Just giving you food for thought.

 

The main issue on my motor right now is that the oil pump is going out. I get close to zero oil pressure at idle...so i decided if i rip the motor out i might as well replace everything.

So if i decide to piece together my own rebuild....what do i all need? Pistons, Bearings, gasket and seals, oil pump, water pump, and timing kit? What machine work would i need? I know get the block bored out .20 over as well as the bearings. Do you know how much this would run me?

Sounds like you have a pretty nice rebuild coming along. Are the LS rods ok for a set up like this? And no vtec head?

I plan on going LS turbo so i am considering a fresh rebuild to boost on. Since i'm boosting, pr3 pistons are pretty much out of the question...would it be worth it to just get ls pistons that are .20 over? I also have a friend who has an extra b18b head laying around which im gonna use...would i have to make any adjustments to run this head with my b18a block? Thanks

 

That's funny, I picked up a newer B18B head for my rebuild so I could have all the work done before hand. I think the only differences will be the thermostat housing I think should be swapped over possibly and the PCV placement on the newer valvecover. You can run the old valve cover or plug the newer cover PCV hole.

If your going turbo, you might want to consider forged rods and pistons. But if not, then oversized stock pistons to match your overbore will be fine.