i have a lsvtec setup right now.
b18b block (stock bore) 1.8
00 b16 head
golden eagle lsvtec kit
arp head studs

im just changing the head
im getting a fully built gsr head
but i forgot what else I need..

my question is: 1.do i need to change the arp head studs to gsr
2. do i use the gsr timing belt and water pump? or from a ls
3. do i use a 1.8 oem head gasket?

 

...if you're going to use stock headstuds, then yes. But you mentioned that you already have some from ARP... those will work fine, since they're "studs" (longer) instead of "bolts." there is a difference

....timing belt use depends on which water pump you decide to go with. LS has 21 teeth on the sprocket. a vtec water pump has 19.

....which headgasket you go with is all a matter of debate. Either one will work fine. However, i do know that GE uses a P30 headgasket with their ls/vtec conversion kit.

-jonathan

 

an oem GSR head gasket will work fine as Db1 said


i recomend the GSR water pump, it works better than the LS pump

a gsr oil pump is a good idea aswell.

you might want to clay the motor, when using a vtec head on a stk LS pistons some people have found that the exhaust valves can hit the piston.

a ghetto way to fix this is enlarging the LS exhaust valve reliefs with a dremel

the proper way is to replace them with some VTEC pistons.

 

do you have links to this info? I"ve never read or heard anyone having problems like that.

the only way an exhaust valve would hit a stock LS piston is if the head had been milled past .043", if there was an incredible amount of carbon build up on the piston itself. Even with a single ply headgasket, there is still sufficient clearance when using stock P30cams with stock pistons.

I agree about the oil pump choice, however, how does the vtec water pump "work better" than the stock LS pump? Flow rate is not that big of a difference itr/gsr is only 8qpm more but after 6rpm it slows down a bit more to help cooling,

the theory behind cooling is a slower flow allows the water to absorb more heat.

i pity the fool who attacks his pistons with a dremel.

-jonathan

 

do u guys recommend itr oil pump

 

all b series oil pumps are the same from 96+

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Db1_77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree about the oil pump choice, however, how does the vtec water pump "work better" than the stock LS pump? Flow rate is not that big of a difference itr/gsr is
</TD></TR></TABLE>

it vtec water pumps spin slower at high rpms. this way they're not spinning so fast they're not moving anymore water.

 

spinning too fast al high rpms<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Db1_77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have links to this info? I"ve never read or heard anyone having problems like that.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've helped a few local ricers pull some b20 vtec heads and ls/vtec heads after they blew the engine up and could see where the valves were hitting the piston.

Keeping in mind that these are mainly junk yard built set ups and most of them had no idea if the head had ever been milled or even what set up the VTEC head came off of. I have seen set ups where that was no contact and others there was obvious contact.

In all cases i have seen the valves were hitting the damage was not hard or deep enough to cause major problems immediatly, these engines had been ruined from untuned boost or NOS but either way there was collision in there and that's not good for any of the internals.

That is why i tell them to clay their engines before assembly. It doesn't happen in all cases but that's what you get when you buy an unknown VTEC head from an unknown source on the internet.

It's a good idea to double check your clearance if your not using VTEC pistons.