Problems with LSV swap
Hello, I have a 95 integra with a LSV swap. B18B1 bottom block and a GSR head. Running a stock p72 computer obd2. I researched and did everthing the right way changed over the oil pump/waterpump/rodbolts/etc. BUT, for some reason the car seems like it lacks in power and is hesitant on low throttle. So you have the accelerator pressed half way its slowly rising in rpm the car wants to go pause go pause go pause all the way up. I've changed the spark plug wires to OEM, spark plugs, distributor has been replaced (first one smelled burned after running car). I checked the codes it was showing 7,10,63, 74. Checked TPS and everything is acting normal, the intake temperture isnt there. I dont know about 63 and 73 was thinking because of the burnt distributor which has been replaced. Do you think its being this way because i'm using a stock p72 computer? Sorry so long just trying to state everything. Forgot to add also when you let the rpms come up slowly when the first vtec opens it almost feels as if the car looses power and then when it crosses over again in 5800 it seems normal.
Short version:
Car is sluggish, using stock computer for LSV, changed dizzy, plug wires, codes 7, 10, 63, 74.
Short version:
Car is sluggish, using stock computer for LSV, changed dizzy, plug wires, codes 7, 10, 63, 74.
Last edited by TUR3Ovtec; Apr 11, 2013 at 08:19 PM. Reason: added info
Forgot to add also when you let the rpms come up slowly when the first vtec opens it almost feels as if the car looses power and then when it crosses over again in 5800 it seems normal.
Originally Posted by kyden
do you have tps and map sensor plugs switched?
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
The tps and map sensors are in the correct location. I've tried even switching it to see what happens. Timing was checked and rechecked even by my mechanic and seems to be dead on. Is there a certain degree it should be? I didn't want to go to upgraded cam gears since car is bone stock besides supertech valve seals. I noticied today also that it does it only in 1st and 2nd gear all through other gears it flows smoothly. Its odd.
I was thinking it might be the fact that I am using a p72 stock but then again the head has been untouched would it really make that much of a difference that it lags in 2 gears.
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Timing is off buddy,could be the ignition timing off or the mechanical timing off,do this,start her up while idling loosen the distributor bolts and spin it clockwise so you hear the rpms increase,turn her all the way till she stops then open the throttle fully for just a sec, you doing this to see if she struggles to rev up or if she revs like she should.Or you could just get the ignition set properly using a timing light.I still thing you should pull the timing covers off set the timing and post pics just to double check,cause i guarantee you those are syntoms of timing not set properly,you just gotta figure out if it is ignition timing,which is an easy fix with a timing light,or mechanical timing (timing belt).
My mechanic used a timing light to check timing on the cam side. I had my buddy who is a Honda mechanic come and check the timing on the distributor side. Still same problem. I will take a picture of the cams. Should the timing light be set to a certain degree?? I ordered a new TPS just to be safe. And the IAC shouldn't that just fluctuate the rpms???
I'm running a jdm rhd harness so it doesn't have the intake temp sensor. That's why the code is up. I'm thinking only thing I can do is Running a obd1 ecu so it doesn't look for the iat and I can disable the o2.
Also to clear it up again I felt the hesitation throught out all the gears and now even when I floor the car it makes. A lot of noise but doesn't move for ****. I'm getting fed up already!
Also to clear it up again I felt the hesitation throught out all the gears and now even when I floor the car it makes. A lot of noise but doesn't move for ****. I'm getting fed up already!
You gotta find a way to clear the codes. Connect wires that are missed by your harness or swap ECUs with one that don't need the sensors. Once you've got the codes clear you can start diagnosing whatever problems remain. But until then it's impossible to know whether the problems are due to external factors or to the ECU dealing with bad information that it's getting.
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andreysibiris
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