Odd dyno pulls
Hey guys, was in the process of finishing up my build and kinda ran into a wall in the form of massive disappointment in power output.
Current setup:
stock b18c(itr) short block
P&P usdm gsr head
JUN 3 with sprockets
supertech/toda VT
SK2 mani
big bore tb
ingen cai
*more done but that the gist*
Now I had a hytech rep to mate with my custom 2 1/2 piping, but due to complications had to bolt back on my itr header and hi flow cat. My goal was 200-210 on the dyno, but ended up putting down mid 170's.
Was expecting something around the neighborhood of 190 due to the header/cat and the fact I didn't have my spoon head gasket in(would of put CR roughly at 11.7-8).
Just wanted to get some feedback on if this combo is hurting me or simply header/cam choice. Jun's definitely need more attention when dialing in, but would it dip that much if slightly off?? My tuner suggested throwing on a new tri-y, which I agree, but then also a new cam(blox p1's) with a different IM. Thanks in advance for those with "experienced" responses
Current setup:
stock b18c(itr) short block
P&P usdm gsr head
JUN 3 with sprockets
supertech/toda VT
SK2 mani
big bore tb
ingen cai
*more done but that the gist*
Now I had a hytech rep to mate with my custom 2 1/2 piping, but due to complications had to bolt back on my itr header and hi flow cat. My goal was 200-210 on the dyno, but ended up putting down mid 170's.
Was expecting something around the neighborhood of 190 due to the header/cat and the fact I didn't have my spoon head gasket in(would of put CR roughly at 11.7-8).
Just wanted to get some feedback on if this combo is hurting me or simply header/cam choice. Jun's definitely need more attention when dialing in, but would it dip that much if slightly off?? My tuner suggested throwing on a new tri-y, which I agree, but then also a new cam(blox p1's) with a different IM. Thanks in advance for those with "experienced" responses
I don't wanna be rude so I'll just ignore the first two questions lol, and it's a dynojet.
Cant imagine jun cams being suspect for underperforming even with compression holding at around 11.5, unless it's a lack in them being tuned correctly. I plan on throwing on a hytech rep temporarily until i put in an order for the real thing or smsp one, and considering swaping the mani for an edelbrock.
Cant imagine jun cams being suspect for underperforming even with compression holding at around 11.5, unless it's a lack in them being tuned correctly. I plan on throwing on a hytech rep temporarily until i put in an order for the real thing or smsp one, and considering swaping the mani for an edelbrock.
Elevation also has to do with numbers...the higher up you are the less power your car makes because of lack of oxygen. Trust me i ran into that issue in El Paso, TX cause it was 5,000 ft above sea level? i cant remember but it robbed me of 40hp on my mustang and at the track cars were running 1 whole second slower because of it compared to sea level where im originally from.
just a thought, might not be your issue, but just a suggestion.
just a thought, might not be your issue, but just a suggestion.
Thanks, but I'm over in Cali. Think I'm gonna try taking it to church automotive cause even with a mildly built gsr head and those cams/bolt ons its hard to believe output would be in the 170s or even why blox cams would be recommended over juns unless it was an all b18c1 block with low cr. Still hoping for some enlighting opinions to help me make sense of these results
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i made 200whp with a b16a head instead of a gsr head..
stock itr block (97)
b16 p/p head
supertech valvetrain
stock cams/ cam gears
hytech tri-y header
performer x manifold
hondata Im gasket
70mm throttle body
440cc rc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
fuel rail with regulator
3inch aem cold air intake
2 1/2inch piping
hondata s100
tuned on dyno jet
stock itr block (97)
b16 p/p head
supertech valvetrain
stock cams/ cam gears
hytech tri-y header
performer x manifold
hondata Im gasket
70mm throttle body
440cc rc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
fuel rail with regulator
3inch aem cold air intake
2 1/2inch piping
hondata s100
tuned on dyno jet
The only other thing I can think of is my sk2 pro series is port matched to a 71mm tb and lossing power from being stock bore, but figured it would flow fine(just had potential for gains later on if I decided to bore or extrude honed the thing).
u afe way better off using a victor x manifold.. i lagged power midrange using performer x.. so skunk2 would easily give u low #'s..
go with a vic.x and port match ot to a 72/74mm throttle body.. my tuner told me that would really get me over the 200whp mark and some upgraded cams ofcourse
go with a vic.x and port match ot to a 72/74mm throttle body.. my tuner told me that would really get me over the 200whp mark and some upgraded cams ofcourse
u afe way better off using a victor x manifold.. i lagged power midrange using performer x.. so skunk2 would easily give u low #'s..
go with a vic.x and port match ot to a 72/74mm throttle body.. my tuner told me that would really get me over the 200whp mark and some upgraded cams ofcourse
go with a vic.x and port match ot to a 72/74mm throttle body.. my tuner told me that would really get me over the 200whp mark and some upgraded cams ofcourse
Post a sheet of your dyno run and AFRS.
OP seems to be avoiding multiple questions so it's probably a half *** build anyways.
Although I love the assumption of my build being half ***, I have only avoided one question about posting my chart. We took it off the dyno to change some things around and then I'm throwing it back on next week. I might even do a leak and compression test to see if my block is the culprit, in which case I'll just go with my original plan of putting in supertech pistons i have laying around and swap rods. Also went ahead and purchased one of John's new collector designed headers. Just not sure if the mani is gonna be sufficient(swap, bore, or fine as is port matched *remember 73mm tb tapered to 71)
Oh and why would a victor x be to big lol
Oh and why would a victor x be to big lol
Helpful my friend. I plan to stroke it in a couple years when its more for track and not dd. That aside couldn't see why it would be to big for moderately built b18 with ample bolt ons. Now if it were a stock motor would agree. I alreadyhave the sk2 port matched so most likely sticking with it, just caught me off guard that my tuner would suggest a different one. I seem to recall edelbrock(victor x) has more mid range but never looked much into it before cause it seemed like a better manifold for turbo applications
if the throttle body and manifold are not port matched you get sharp edges with recesses. This causes vortexes of air to form in the recesses and huge turbulence. It is bad for air flow bro. lol sorry could not resist. N/A motors are all about efficiency and compression. The 4 to 1 header should not hurt you terribly the cat maybe if it is clogged.
Helpful my friend. I plan to stroke it in a couple years when its more for track and not dd. That aside couldn't see why it would be to big for moderately built b18 with ample bolt ons. Now if it were a stock motor would agree. I alreadyhave the sk2 port matched so most likely sticking with it, just caught me off guard that my tuner would suggest a different one. I seem to recall edelbrock(victor x) has more mid range but never looked much into it before cause it seemed like a better manifold for turbo applications
^^^Wow can you not read? I said in two posts already that my manifold IS port matched, sorry bro could not resist... Example of the help I'm not looking for, but appreciate the info from peeps like mouab18c1. -Do you think it would hurt airflow if i leave my current manifold stock or should just go ahead and bore it?
Sorry if I sound like I know it all(which I def. dont) I'm just tryin to systematically go through what could be causing low numbers. Put a lot of time and money into this build so I'm fairly knowledgeable about what I'm trying to accomplish, but stumped on a couple things
Sorry if I sound like I know it all(which I def. dont) I'm just tryin to systematically go through what could be causing low numbers. Put a lot of time and money into this build so I'm fairly knowledgeable about what I'm trying to accomplish, but stumped on a couple things
I don't see how the Skunk2 mani is restricting your airflow, not sure if you stated it but this is the PRO series correct? Which is very similar to the ITR manifold
Check out this thread. Most 1.8L motors do not fall very far apart
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/intake-manifold-test-results-1-8l-edelbrock-itr-ibspec-take-look-revised-2869703/
Check out this thread. Most 1.8L motors do not fall very far apart
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/intake-manifold-test-results-1-8l-edelbrock-itr-ibspec-take-look-revised-2869703/


