i had the screw that holds the rotor onto the distributer shaft break off and was not able to remove the broken screw from the shaft. so i bought some liquid steel epoxy to adhear the rotor back on, making sure it was in the right postion. forgot to mention this happened while the car was in idle "warming up" yesterday morning. now the engine cranks over but wont start, i seem to be getting some spark thought the wires, i replaced the distributer cap for the heck of it, can smell gas when trying to start the car, i can hear the whirring noise when i turn the key to the on postion "fuel pump check". now heres my question if the rotor came loose while in idle and was no longer rotating correctly could this have caused my timing to be off now and thats the reason for the car not starting anymore? any ideas? oh the car is a 91 acura integra gs. could i have bent valve springs if the timing went while this happened. thanks

 

thats the same thing i am going thru, i cheanged my cap and rotor and its acting funny? i doint think its a bent valve maybe the rotor is not conduction electryicty check your setup again

 

installed and re-checked new distrubter cap and rotor all is fine, getting slight spark, battery is kind of dead now from trying to start, just checked the timing by removing the valve cover and the upper timing belt shield, the 2 index marks on the sprockes line up good the belt is a little lose though, i found tdc by lining up the 2 index marks on the crank shaft rotors and the rotor was pretty much pointing at the #1 cylinder plug wire on the distrubter cap.. im at a loss here and need to get to work monday pleases help me...

 

Either try to get the screw out of the dist. shaft w/ a screw extractor (requires drilling, risky), or try to find another distributor. I would not trust any sort of adhesive or JB Weld or anything of that nature to hold the rotor in place.

But the cam timing is all held in place by the timing belt. The intake camshaft drives the distributor shaft which rotates the rotor. If the rotor breaks then the spark plugs simply don't get spark. It's not going to mess up the engine or anything.

 

yup the timing is ok, im not getting spark. how do you test a coil? i have a digital volt meter but dont know how to use it. lol

 

I recently changed my d cap + rotor and for some reason the ignitor coil craped out on me. I think to test it you need to clip one end of the test to the coil and touch the other end to a metallic surface(like maybe where the ground wire is connected) and crank too see if you get a spark.

 

a couple of times ive changed my cap and rotor, the screw had came undone and the rotor was wobbling around and my car had been running fine........there was just some melted plastic in there which is not a good thing, but it still ran if that helps you any....so maybe its something else!?

 

the coil checked out ok, the secondary ohms on the coil was a little low 4.6 when it should be 9 to 14 i think that would be sufficent enough, im wondering if the igniter is shot? anyone know what this looks like and how to test one?