Need to know?
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Need to know? (jokerpimp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jokerpimp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why do u say 0psi of boost what makes my motor unable to boost</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't say UNABLE. I'm just saying it's not a good idea.
You'll hear more problem stories than success stories with boosted cars. The only guys that can make them work out properly are the guys with tons of money or tons of knowlege or both.
It takes a very meticulous effort to maintain boosted hondas that weren't factory boosted.
People say that tuning is everything. I disagree. Physics is everything.
Open deck aluminum block with cast internals, sometimes high static compression, high RPM operation, and tuner/user error are all HUGE contributing factors in the amount of blown up motors.
Dont get fooled into thinking you can peice together a $1500-3000 setup if you dont have the knowlege and the hook ups to do so.
The turbo itself will be around $300-500 used for a DECENT turbo that you'd actually want to use. The manifold is around $200-500. The tuning itself is around $300-500. Then throw in lines, intercooler, hardware, fuel management, fuel hardware, BOV, wastegate (if you're going external), things that WILL go wrong, and labor. You're allready past $3k atleast.
The problem is that turbo'd setups usually run for about a month at a time without some sort of problem. The engine was never designed for boost. Just like the human heart was never designed for crack. Same concept.
You can reinforce the hell out of it to get it to work properly and reliably. Reliable means stock like reliability. Not "my setup has worked fine for over 6 months" reliability. At that point, your budget is around $5k to $10k or more.
Reliability also means the ability to do whatever you want with the car. Drag race reliability is easy.
Drag racing is probably the only form of motor sports you'll be reserving yourself to. You're going to be missing out on a world of fun. Not that drag racing isnt fun..but...I like to road race a lot.
Most guys that go turbo get sick of the car after the constant break, fix, break, fix schedule. Notice that a lot of formerly turbo guys just end up buying a factory turbo car like an STi or EVO?
Plus...what are you going to do with even 300 front wheel HP? You're going to need slicks to ever hook up.
A slow car that's fun and driveable all the time is MUCH better than a fast car that's always broken, IMO.
Do the turbo setup if you want....I can say that i've been around more failure stories than success stories with turbo'd Hondas. I like to actually drive my car....so NA is the way for me. The DOHC VTEC motors are fun NA with bolt ons anyway.
Just my $.02. Take it for what it's worth.
Why do u say 0psi of boost what makes my motor unable to boost</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't say UNABLE. I'm just saying it's not a good idea.
You'll hear more problem stories than success stories with boosted cars. The only guys that can make them work out properly are the guys with tons of money or tons of knowlege or both.
It takes a very meticulous effort to maintain boosted hondas that weren't factory boosted.
People say that tuning is everything. I disagree. Physics is everything.
Open deck aluminum block with cast internals, sometimes high static compression, high RPM operation, and tuner/user error are all HUGE contributing factors in the amount of blown up motors.
Dont get fooled into thinking you can peice together a $1500-3000 setup if you dont have the knowlege and the hook ups to do so.
The turbo itself will be around $300-500 used for a DECENT turbo that you'd actually want to use. The manifold is around $200-500. The tuning itself is around $300-500. Then throw in lines, intercooler, hardware, fuel management, fuel hardware, BOV, wastegate (if you're going external), things that WILL go wrong, and labor. You're allready past $3k atleast.
The problem is that turbo'd setups usually run for about a month at a time without some sort of problem. The engine was never designed for boost. Just like the human heart was never designed for crack. Same concept.
You can reinforce the hell out of it to get it to work properly and reliably. Reliable means stock like reliability. Not "my setup has worked fine for over 6 months" reliability. At that point, your budget is around $5k to $10k or more.
Reliability also means the ability to do whatever you want with the car. Drag race reliability is easy.
Drag racing is probably the only form of motor sports you'll be reserving yourself to. You're going to be missing out on a world of fun. Not that drag racing isnt fun..but...I like to road race a lot.
Most guys that go turbo get sick of the car after the constant break, fix, break, fix schedule. Notice that a lot of formerly turbo guys just end up buying a factory turbo car like an STi or EVO?
Plus...what are you going to do with even 300 front wheel HP? You're going to need slicks to ever hook up.
A slow car that's fun and driveable all the time is MUCH better than a fast car that's always broken, IMO.
Do the turbo setup if you want....I can say that i've been around more failure stories than success stories with turbo'd Hondas. I like to actually drive my car....so NA is the way for me. The DOHC VTEC motors are fun NA with bolt ons anyway.
Just my $.02. Take it for what it's worth.
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From: Why To Steal My Car, NC, United States Of America
Re: Need to know? (B serious)
AMEN. i mean i love boost myself and had boosted hondas but same here with all the stories i here about motor blowing or breakin and fixing this, unless you dump serious cash into it you'll never get it perfect or near perfect,i agree with others saying they can make 300hp on stock motor ,but how long will it last you?? reliability people! my friend put decent money into his turbo teg made 300hp on stock motor ,2 weeks later boOM!, wont last you very much, so before any of you talk more crap think about one true key word here RELIABILITY, my hatch was boosted heck once overboosted and bent a rod, wasnt surprised and was a td04h turbo so go ahead people boost what you want and do whatever but dont come crying when ur car takes a crap on you 
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Henderson, Nevada, usa
Re: Need to know? (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't say UNABLE. I'm just saying it's not a good idea.
You'll hear more problem stories than success stories with boosted cars. The only guys that can make them work out properly are the guys with tons of money or tons of knowlege or both.
It takes a very meticulous effort to maintain boosted hondas that weren't factory boosted.
People say that tuning is everything. I disagree. Physics is everything.
Open deck aluminum block with cast internals, sometimes high static compression, high RPM operation, and tuner/user error are all HUGE contributing factors in the amount of blown up motors.
Dont get fooled into thinking you can peice together a $1500-3000 setup if you dont have the knowlege and the hook ups to do so.
The turbo itself will be around $300-500 used for a DECENT turbo that you'd actually want to use. The manifold is around $200-500. The tuning itself is around $300-500. Then throw in lines, intercooler, hardware, fuel management, fuel hardware, BOV, wastegate (if you're going external), things that WILL go wrong, and labor. You're allready past $3k atleast.
The problem is that turbo'd setups usually run for about a month at a time without some sort of problem. The engine was never designed for boost. Just like the human heart was never designed for crack. Same concept.
You can reinforce the hell out of it to get it to work properly and reliably. Reliable means stock like reliability. Not "my setup has worked fine for over 6 months" reliability. At that point, your budget is around $5k to $10k or more.
Reliability also means the ability to do whatever you want with the car. Drag race reliability is easy.
Drag racing is probably the only form of motor sports you'll be reserving yourself to. You're going to be missing out on a world of fun. Not that drag racing isnt fun..but...I like to road race a lot.
Most guys that go turbo get sick of the car after the constant break, fix, break, fix schedule. Notice that a lot of formerly turbo guys just end up buying a factory turbo car like an STi or EVO?
Plus...what are you going to do with even 300 front wheel HP? You're going to need slicks to ever hook up.
A slow car that's fun and driveable all the time is MUCH better than a fast car that's always broken, IMO.
Do the turbo setup if you want....I can say that i've been around more failure stories than success stories with turbo'd Hondas. I like to actually drive my car....so NA is the way for me. The DOHC VTEC motors are fun NA with bolt ons anyway.
Just my $.02. Take it for what it's worth. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I could have not said this better myself! Exactly right, I too am not a fanatic of forced induction honda engines. Dont get me wrong they can be tons of fun, but the unreliability is just not worth it, I personally have never seen a daily driven turbo honda motor last longer than six months.
I didn't say UNABLE. I'm just saying it's not a good idea.
You'll hear more problem stories than success stories with boosted cars. The only guys that can make them work out properly are the guys with tons of money or tons of knowlege or both.
It takes a very meticulous effort to maintain boosted hondas that weren't factory boosted.
People say that tuning is everything. I disagree. Physics is everything.
Open deck aluminum block with cast internals, sometimes high static compression, high RPM operation, and tuner/user error are all HUGE contributing factors in the amount of blown up motors.
Dont get fooled into thinking you can peice together a $1500-3000 setup if you dont have the knowlege and the hook ups to do so.
The turbo itself will be around $300-500 used for a DECENT turbo that you'd actually want to use. The manifold is around $200-500. The tuning itself is around $300-500. Then throw in lines, intercooler, hardware, fuel management, fuel hardware, BOV, wastegate (if you're going external), things that WILL go wrong, and labor. You're allready past $3k atleast.
The problem is that turbo'd setups usually run for about a month at a time without some sort of problem. The engine was never designed for boost. Just like the human heart was never designed for crack. Same concept.
You can reinforce the hell out of it to get it to work properly and reliably. Reliable means stock like reliability. Not "my setup has worked fine for over 6 months" reliability. At that point, your budget is around $5k to $10k or more.
Reliability also means the ability to do whatever you want with the car. Drag race reliability is easy.
Drag racing is probably the only form of motor sports you'll be reserving yourself to. You're going to be missing out on a world of fun. Not that drag racing isnt fun..but...I like to road race a lot.
Most guys that go turbo get sick of the car after the constant break, fix, break, fix schedule. Notice that a lot of formerly turbo guys just end up buying a factory turbo car like an STi or EVO?
Plus...what are you going to do with even 300 front wheel HP? You're going to need slicks to ever hook up.
A slow car that's fun and driveable all the time is MUCH better than a fast car that's always broken, IMO.
Do the turbo setup if you want....I can say that i've been around more failure stories than success stories with turbo'd Hondas. I like to actually drive my car....so NA is the way for me. The DOHC VTEC motors are fun NA with bolt ons anyway.
Just my $.02. Take it for what it's worth. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I could have not said this better myself! Exactly right, I too am not a fanatic of forced induction honda engines. Dont get me wrong they can be tons of fun, but the unreliability is just not worth it, I personally have never seen a daily driven turbo honda motor last longer than six months.
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: SAn Luis Obispo, CA, USA
Re: Need to know? (B serious)
Thanks for all the info
I've had a 94 teg LS 4d for a few years now, but I was never really aware of what I could do with it until just recently.
I had been considering boosting it, but after reading the most recent posts, I agree with NA.
My engine already has 170k and I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible while keeping it fun to drive at the same time.
With everything I have read here, I think an LS/VTEC is the way I wanna go, NOT boost.
I've had a 94 teg LS 4d for a few years now, but I was never really aware of what I could do with it until just recently.
I had been considering boosting it, but after reading the most recent posts, I agree with NA.
My engine already has 170k and I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible while keeping it fun to drive at the same time.
With everything I have read here, I think an LS/VTEC is the way I wanna go, NOT boost.
Thread Starter
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From: hobbs, nm, usa
Re: Need to know?
yea i know exacatly what yall mean my buddy has a boosted integra with a ls motor only has is pistons, rods, and turbo kit(bought off ebay)<- cheap kit and 440cc injectors and super afc with b16 tranny and he has that problem alot and he also has a boosted 4dr automatic civic and when one is running and he gets the other fixed the other brakes down and back and fourth and back and fourth and yea i dont need to keep going but he also(sorry guys) but (Dogginator edit: ghetto rigs) his **** so u wonder y it breaks down all the time
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From: Why To Steal My Car, NC, United States Of America
Re: Need to know? (db1_jdm)
well i had a civic hatch si and was turbo using a greddy kit and lasted past 6 months and still going with new owner but i was boosting 7psi but if he ups the boost and really steps on it like all the time it wont last that long he'll fry the rings ,same with my bro had a ls turbo hatch and had it for a few months and sold the car cuz hell he knew it wud go sooner or later cuz it did blow before so na wud be ur best bet but turbo is great as well but build it right and dont cheap out on parts when building it
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Need to know? (AB45RPM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AB45RPM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the info
I've had a 94 teg LS 4d for a few years now, but I was never really aware of what I could do with it until just recently.
I had been considering boosting it, but after reading the most recent posts, I agree with NA.
My engine already has 170k and I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible while keeping it fun to drive at the same time.
With everything I have read here, I think an LS/VTEC is the way I wanna go, NOT boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm...well honda motors are known for the longevity, but 170k might be pushing it if you wanna drive the car real hard. Also if you really wanna get down into the nitty gritty, the LS VTEC combo is not reliable either. Sorry to burst your bubble.
The LS has a longer stroke than the B18C1/5. This means higher piston speeds. The rod stroke ratio of this setup is the achilles heel. Bottom ends dont last long. There are ways around it, but with your motor having 170k on it, it might just be wiser to do a motor swap.
This way you get the better geared transmissions that are attatched to the VTEC versions as a bonus.
You were ready to go turbo, and ready to go LS VTEC...so just put down the few extra bucks and do a motor swap. There's nothing like a factory built motor that puts out around 100hp per liter in stock form...with the ability for much more.
I've had a 94 teg LS 4d for a few years now, but I was never really aware of what I could do with it until just recently.
I had been considering boosting it, but after reading the most recent posts, I agree with NA.
My engine already has 170k and I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible while keeping it fun to drive at the same time.
With everything I have read here, I think an LS/VTEC is the way I wanna go, NOT boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm...well honda motors are known for the longevity, but 170k might be pushing it if you wanna drive the car real hard. Also if you really wanna get down into the nitty gritty, the LS VTEC combo is not reliable either. Sorry to burst your bubble.
The LS has a longer stroke than the B18C1/5. This means higher piston speeds. The rod stroke ratio of this setup is the achilles heel. Bottom ends dont last long. There are ways around it, but with your motor having 170k on it, it might just be wiser to do a motor swap.
This way you get the better geared transmissions that are attatched to the VTEC versions as a bonus.
You were ready to go turbo, and ready to go LS VTEC...so just put down the few extra bucks and do a motor swap. There's nothing like a factory built motor that puts out around 100hp per liter in stock form...with the ability for much more.
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From: Why To Steal My Car, NC, United States Of America
Re: Need to know? (B serious)
i was gonna say the same thing that lsv isnt really realiable either but he was talking about boost so i didnt comment, but i have seen pretty quick boosted lsv but you can imagine how long it lasted lol
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From: Why To Steal My Car, NC, United States Of America
Re: Need to know? (B serious)
dude a gsr or type r would be perfect they are reliable, and make pretty ok numbers stock, for your sitution, ive also seen all motor b-seires take turbos down but is pricey to go full out NA, seen Na hatches and tegs running 10's as well it depends on your setup and how much money you put into it
Daisy... Daisy...
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: 24601
Re: Need to know? (Jackson123)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson123 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm currently seeking a mechanical engineering degree, however i havent installed a turbo on a car, but it makes most sense to measure pressure at the intake manifold, this way you get the general flowrate after circulating all four cylinders, yeilding most accurate results.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need to couple that with the intake charge temperature as well to establish the mass or standard volumetric flowrate. See my post above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WookinPaNub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DOHC has half the posts of this thread and the least amount contributing. /Ban</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please enlighten me as to your contribution to the technical quality of this thread? No one has answered the OP's question yet.
I'll start with the compression ratio.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
There is a better one that covers boost, but I can't remember where it is.
You need to couple that with the intake charge temperature as well to establish the mass or standard volumetric flowrate. See my post above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WookinPaNub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DOHC has half the posts of this thread and the least amount contributing. /Ban</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please enlighten me as to your contribution to the technical quality of this thread? No one has answered the OP's question yet.
I'll start with the compression ratio.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
There is a better one that covers boost, but I can't remember where it is.
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From: Why To Steal My Car, NC, United States Of America
Re: Need to know? (jokerpimp)
ok to answer his first question, his compression as he has his motor set up is 10:4 and is okay to boost that motor just dont boost past 10psi on stock motor
http://www.dh-racing.com/dynos.html
http://www.dh-racing.com/dynos.html
* B A N N E D *
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From: states united
Re: Need to know? (DOHCgarage919)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCgarage919 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.dh-racing.com/dynos.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
way to repost what i already put up
way to repost what i already put up
Daisy... Daisy...
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From: 24601
Re: Need to know? (Dogginator)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a better one that covers boost, but I can't remember where it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is a mimic of the old Zeal Autowerks compression calculator.
http://www.clubcivicquebec.com...f.php
From this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2102795
Here is a mimic of the old Zeal Autowerks compression calculator.
http://www.clubcivicquebec.com...f.php
From this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2102795
* B A N N E D *
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From: states united
Re: Need to know? (DOHCgarage919)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCgarage919 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry i didnt see that but anyway's you didnt give him the compression...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i shouldn't need to
that's what the calculator is for, he can use his OWN inputs
i shouldn't need to
that's what the calculator is for, he can use his OWN inputs
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Need to know? (GRAF-FITI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i shouldn't need to
that's what the calculator is for, he can use his OWN inputs</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL why are you always so angry?
OP: to answer your compression question, I'm guessing off the top of my head that you're looking at around 10.7:1 if you have the JDM B16A, or around 10:4:1 if you have the USDM B16A2/3. I should reference the calculator to test my own gangsta lol.
I allready answered your PSI question: 0 PSI.
GOOD LUCK!
i shouldn't need to
that's what the calculator is for, he can use his OWN inputs</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL why are you always so angry?
OP: to answer your compression question, I'm guessing off the top of my head that you're looking at around 10.7:1 if you have the JDM B16A, or around 10:4:1 if you have the USDM B16A2/3. I should reference the calculator to test my own gangsta lol.
I allready answered your PSI question: 0 PSI.
GOOD LUCK!
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
Re: Need to know? (jokerpimp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jokerpimp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I decide to not listen to DOHCgarage919 and use my common sense and ask this question in the FI section</TD></TR></TABLE>
~FIXED~
good idea
~FIXED~
good idea
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From: Why To Steal My Car, NC, United States Of America
Re: Need to know? (DOHCgarage919)
sorry mods but im sick of all the haters, its like they only log on to talk crap on other people or give others a hard time instead of posting their opinions or answering tech. questions, you guys are useless, im not saying im always right but the haters here always have something bad to say or and,**** ppl off just for the hell of it, i wont be logging on as much anymore cuz this site is becoming so childish and unprofessional, others will agree with me and others i no will continue to be idiots and continue hating
, i wont be logging on as much anymore cuz this site is becoming so childish and unprofessional, others will agree with me and others i no will continue to be idiots and continue hating
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
Re: Need to know? (DOHCgarage919)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCgarage919 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry mods but im sick of all the haters, its like they only log on to talk crap on other people or give others a hard time instead of posting their opinions or answering tech. questions, you guys are useless, im not saying im always right but the haters here always have something bad to say or and,**** ppl off just for the hell of it, i wont be logging on as much anymore cuz this site is becoming so childish and unprofessional, others will agree with me and others i no will continue to be idiots and continue hating </TD></TR></TABLE>
To tell you the truth, you got off to a bad start by giving out false information. You may think your right but you cant determine a turbo engines life span merely by a number of psi. turbo engines have blown in various amounts of psi but there are to many variables to determin his outcome.
, i wont be logging on as much anymore cuz this site is becoming so childish and unprofessional, others will agree with me and others i no will continue to be idiots and continue hating </TD></TR></TABLE>To tell you the truth, you got off to a bad start by giving out false information. You may think your right but you cant determine a turbo engines life span merely by a number of psi. turbo engines have blown in various amounts of psi but there are to many variables to determin his outcome.
Thread Starter
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From: hobbs, nm, usa
Re: Need to know?
i have a b16a1 usdm block that is stock and i did get on the link but i do not know the stroke of my block with 77mm i have 10.4.1 compression but a buddy of mine said it is a 86mm stroke with that i have a 11.5.1 compression and i dont think that is right so i do beliave it is 10.4.1 and i am going to go ahead and drop the compression down to 8.8.1 so i dont have to worry about it
to 8.8.1 so i dont have to worry about it
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Need to know? (jokerpimp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jokerpimp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a b16a1 usdm block that is stock and i did get on the link but i do not know the stroke of my block with 77mm i have 10.4.1 compression but a buddy of mine said it is a 86mm stroke with that i have a 11.5.1 compression and i dont think that is right so i do beliave it is 10.4.1 and i am going to go ahead and drop the compression down to 8.8.1 so i dont have to worry about it </TD></TR></TABLE>
B16As have a stroke of 77mm. B18cs have a stroke of about 87mm. JDM B16As have a CR of 10.4:1. The USDM version is around 10.1:1.
Please use punctuation. It's really hard to read your post.
to 8.8.1 so i dont have to worry about it </TD></TR></TABLE>B16As have a stroke of 77mm. B18cs have a stroke of about 87mm. JDM B16As have a CR of 10.4:1. The USDM version is around 10.1:1.
Please use punctuation. It's really hard to read your post.
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From: Phoenix, AZ
https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum/16
Thats the Forced Induction Forum. You'll get your answers there...
Thats the Forced Induction Forum. You'll get your answers there...