Need help!
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Trussville, AL, USA
Need help!
Im looking at a turbonetics t3/t4 hybrid turbo kit for my 1992 acura integra LS, but first i want to stroke the motor so it can turn more rpm's since i dont have vtec, and i want the boost to stay going as long as possible, what would be a good crank to buy, and should i go with a forged crank or just a regular stroked one, and what would be a good set of rods and pistons to go with that and should they be forged to?
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: U of A, AZ, US
Re: Need help! (Jdm_Tosky)
Do some research... if this is your first turbo project, you should know exactly what you're doing and why - it makes things easier. Let me give you a place to start...
De-stroking is not necessary, but the choices for you include the B18C1/5 crank (87.5mm) and the B17 crank (84mm). The B16 crank is sub 80mm, which is not what you want. Forged cranks are around too, but they cost bank.
If you want more than say 7 or 8 psi of tuned boost, you'll want forged rods and pistons. For rods you pretty much have Eagle ($), IBSpec H-beams ($$), and Crower ($$$). Everyone pretty much makes forged pistons, but IBSpec Wisecos, CP, and Arias are the most frequently seen.
If you want lots of power, look into sleeving and ARP head studs as well. The B18A1 sleeves as strong as any other B-series sleeves, but just like everything else, they'll give out if you give them enough boost. Since you're aiming for low-mid boost setup, you can get by without them. ARP head studs are good idea with any power build, if for piece of mind than anything else. There's a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell that was a bible to me when I turboed my DA, you might look into that too.
BTW, in his book, Corky says when it comes down to putting down power and lasting, you'll want a higher stroke (stroking) so you can make similar power at a lower RPM. With boost, you'll be able to create good power and torque down low without the need to rev the motor high to create a good output. Think about it: With the stress on your motor already induced by boost, high RPM revving is like tossing dynamite on the fire, so to speak, and creates forces on your crankshaft and bearings that are unbelievably strong.
Research though, you might find evidence that proves me wrong - I'm no expert.
De-stroking is not necessary, but the choices for you include the B18C1/5 crank (87.5mm) and the B17 crank (84mm). The B16 crank is sub 80mm, which is not what you want. Forged cranks are around too, but they cost bank.
If you want more than say 7 or 8 psi of tuned boost, you'll want forged rods and pistons. For rods you pretty much have Eagle ($), IBSpec H-beams ($$), and Crower ($$$). Everyone pretty much makes forged pistons, but IBSpec Wisecos, CP, and Arias are the most frequently seen.
If you want lots of power, look into sleeving and ARP head studs as well. The B18A1 sleeves as strong as any other B-series sleeves, but just like everything else, they'll give out if you give them enough boost. Since you're aiming for low-mid boost setup, you can get by without them. ARP head studs are good idea with any power build, if for piece of mind than anything else. There's a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell that was a bible to me when I turboed my DA, you might look into that too.
BTW, in his book, Corky says when it comes down to putting down power and lasting, you'll want a higher stroke (stroking) so you can make similar power at a lower RPM. With boost, you'll be able to create good power and torque down low without the need to rev the motor high to create a good output. Think about it: With the stress on your motor already induced by boost, high RPM revving is like tossing dynamite on the fire, so to speak, and creates forces on your crankshaft and bearings that are unbelievably strong.
Research though, you might find evidence that proves me wrong - I'm no expert.
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