My car keeps stalling coming to a stop
ok so when im coming up to a stop sign or stop light or just slowing down in general the car stalls out and i know that im in neutral im not in any gear and it shuts off like im turning the key to turn it off which i am not doing, the car turns back on no problem at all. i have no cell codes i have no codes stored nothing
things ive changed
Spark plugs ngk
Wires
Cap
Rotor
fuel filter
Ect sensor
timing belt
water pump
2 bottles of sea foam
Cleaned iacv
changed t stat
Bleed coolant until no more air was left
i swapped distributors with a known good one
ive done more just trying to remember i did a lot
things ive changed
Spark plugs ngk
Wires
Cap
Rotor
fuel filter
Ect sensor
timing belt
water pump
2 bottles of sea foam
Cleaned iacv
changed t stat
Bleed coolant until no more air was left
i swapped distributors with a known good one
ive done more just trying to remember i did a lot
Last edited by Bowl_of_Rice; Jan 25, 2011 at 04:42 PM.
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FITV is another thing to look for. No luck with the idle screw adjustment? If im not mistake vacuum leaks usually result in higher rpm or erratic idle. His seems to sound like its just dropping to nothing.
my car is a 99 so i dont have a fitv and no luck with it because when i unplug the iacv to adjust the idle screw the car will just turn off
i forgot to say my car has an intake headers and exhaust
i forgot to say my car has an intake headers and exhaust
If its shutting off as soon as you pull off the iacv then it's not getting enough air. It basically bypasses the throttle body to let enough air for it to idle correctly. Perhaps there is a blockage in the throttle body? I would advise against cleaning it while still on the IM so not to get anything into the cylinders. Try screwing the idle screw towards the fire wall (counter clock-wise) quite a bit and see if the rpm is bumped up, it should even with the iacv still attached.
i just got a cel code for 73 misfire in cylinder 3, 74 misfire in cylinder 4, and 45 fuel system to rich or to lean which i think is running rich because i cant seem to get rid of that cell, and my cars pretty much had a tune up maybe its because i got crappy wires lol but i do have ngk spark plugs
you know what it probably is that because my headers have a huge dent in them and my cat is welded shitty and so is my muffler and the bolts that hold onto the cat and header one is missing, owell i just ordered my yonaka exhaust and i got a itr header with a new stock cat
ok so i found this
http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=56657
i somewhat know what hes talking about but then i get confused can someone else explain it to me better lol
and with the allan wrench what way do i turn it
http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=56657
i somewhat know what hes talking about but then i get confused can someone else explain it to me better lol
and with the allan wrench what way do i turn it
Threading other than specialty threads such as gas fittings are usually the same. Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty. Counter clockwise is loosen and clocking wise is tighten 
He said in the post that he did two full turns both ways then one full turn clockwise.
A red neck way of finding vacuum leaks is propane. I don't recommend it, nor endorse it. I've seen it done before and it does work but can be potentially dangerous. The theory is if there is a leak, the added propane as fuel will increase the rpm when it gets sucked in where there is a leak.
I still believe there is a problem other than the iacv, the idle adjustment screw opens and closes an air way separate to the iacv if i remember correctly.

He said in the post that he did two full turns both ways then one full turn clockwise.
A red neck way of finding vacuum leaks is propane. I don't recommend it, nor endorse it. I've seen it done before and it does work but can be potentially dangerous. The theory is if there is a leak, the added propane as fuel will increase the rpm when it gets sucked in where there is a leak.
I still believe there is a problem other than the iacv, the idle adjustment screw opens and closes an air way separate to the iacv if i remember correctly.
Threading other than specialty threads such as gas fittings are usually the same. Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty. Counter clockwise is loosen and clocking wise is tighten 
He said in the post that he did two full turns both ways then one full turn clockwise.
A red neck way of finding vacuum leaks is propane. I don't recommend it, nor endorse it. I've seen it done before and it does work but can be potentially dangerous. The theory is if there is a leak, the added propane as fuel will increase the rpm when it gets sucked in where there is a leak.
I still believe there is a problem other than the iacv, the idle adjustment screw opens and closes an air way separate to the iacv if i remember correctly.

He said in the post that he did two full turns both ways then one full turn clockwise.
A red neck way of finding vacuum leaks is propane. I don't recommend it, nor endorse it. I've seen it done before and it does work but can be potentially dangerous. The theory is if there is a leak, the added propane as fuel will increase the rpm when it gets sucked in where there is a leak.
I still believe there is a problem other than the iacv, the idle adjustment screw opens and closes an air way separate to the iacv if i remember correctly.
Are you nuts man???? You might as well use gas to do it lol
Spray a little brake clean around your vacuum lines, if the idle fluxuates you have a leak
Edit - as least if your using a trigger style extension on a propane tank you can turn the gas off with a simple let go of the trigger, while if you spray brake cleaner everywhere you will have a fire. Propane is flammable but in the open air it burns off and dissipates quickly.
Use spray starter fluid instead of brake cleaner or propane. It works the same by making the engine change in rpm as it burns the fluid but is designed for the purpose of burning in an engine.






