I have had my 91 Integra RS for about a year. During this time it has gone throuh 4 alternators. I am about to instal the fifth. The last one only lasted a couple of days, the rest lasted weeks to months. What could be causing this, it is getting very expensive. Long story short: WHY DO I KEEP BLOWING OUT ALTERNATORS???

 

do you have a system? i remember back in tha day i had 800wt pyramid amp in my prelude.. I went through 4 altenators

 

i have the same car i dont go though those i go though a lot of igitons coils maybe ur system but i have a system with a 1600w/ amp so dont know maybe get a new batt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same car i dont go though those i go though a lot of igitons coils maybe ur system but i have a system with a 1600w/ amp so dont know maybe get a new batt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah whatsup with them coils.. I too have a 90 teg and i blew one last month. so i took off my MSD

 

no idea but ive put 2 in 6 months. dam coils

 

are you getting rebuilt alternators?

some of them are dissposable.

and as for the coils specially msd are you guys really
insulation the wires that come out of the distributor?

 

what brand alts are you useing? bosch is gay, Only get denso.

 

I do not have a system. I do not have a deck or speakers, much less an amp. I have not had any problems w/ ignition coils. I bought new batteries with three of the four alternators, because you can only charge those dam things so many times. The first alternator was brand new, the next three have been used. I know some used parts go bad...but three times? They have been different brands, one of them was a denso. Also I tested each after installing and they all operated normally for a length of time (some shorter than others). I am thinking about getting rid of the car...

 

Hey deep! How is bosch so gay? I would love to hear your story- on the facts you base that on?

 

i go through about 3 a year from overspinning them on my civic (car turns 11k roms... original motor turned 5k) but the solution is SIMPLE...

GET IN THE ZONE &gt;&gt;&gt; AutoZone

Lifetime warranty...

every time i burn one out... i go get another... for free...
i even use their tools and swap them in the parking lot so they don't make interest off my core charge.

 

That would be ok if it weren't such a pain in the *** to swap out, i have to pull the brake master cylinder each time...

 

ouch

well, even though i'd hate to suggest it, you need to buy a new one... you've fried all these used ones but you don't know if they had 400,000 miles on them when you bought them or had been abused by the previous owner, etc....

 

ok, you have a number of problems probably. First off, an alternator is an alternator. Well not really but you get the picture. NO brand is particularly better then the other. If you KNOW for a fact that you electrical system is good, consider doing an alternator output test. Simly done, its a measure of the alternator output voltage while the car is runng. ALso, could you possibly be over tightening the tension on the belt? Doing this will put undo stress on the bearings and fail the unit. This could be another problem.

Please, alittle more info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91teg4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That would be ok if it weren't such a pain in the *** to swap out, i have to pull the brake master cylinder each time...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you find that way faster then doing it the way descibed in the helms?
I hear doing it the way you decribed is much easier.

 

don't put the belt on to tight, on the logest run of the belt there should be about a 1/4 inch deflection in it, but no more than a half inch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Creep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you find that way faster then doing it the way descibed in the helms?
I hear doing it the way you decribed is much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

from his title it seems he has a swapped car... the helms doesn't apply to swaps unfortunatly.

 

Still a PITA, but much easier. Two brake lines, and two mounting bolts is all, then bleeding.. Use a 10 mm for lines and a 14 for mounting bolts. The brake lines can be tricky to get back on...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91teg4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Two brake lines, and two mounting bolts is all, then bleeding..</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont need to disconnect the brake lines , you just need to seperate the MC from the booster.

you guys make things way too complicated...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you dont need to disconnect the brake lines , you just need to seperate the MC from the booster.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice...

 

my integra eats alternators too

 

check the terminal connections. seems to be drawing power somewhere in the system.

 

I tried at first, but the alternator wouldn't come out for me w/out completely removing the MC?

 

ok why do bosch components suck compared to denso. Bosch alts go out at around 80k densos go out at around 200k. bosch plugs never last as long as densos. look at the quality of connections and wires on a bosch and look at a denso. Desno has a higher strand count and better connections. Denso just makes a better longer lasting product. Now compare a bosch to a acdelco or some **** from autozone and bosch rocks. but against denso everything bosch just plain sucks. THATS Y!

 

ever tested the bad alternators? what goes? bearings/pulley? do they slowly crap out or just go bad out of nowhere? bench-testing a bad one might tell you interesting info (amps it puts out, volts it puts out, either with or without a load)

try seeing if there is a drain on the electrical system.

have you checked the voltage regulator? does the ecu ever have any trouble codes?

if the car isn't in great shape, might be easier just to ditch it... although i'd have a look at the voltage regulator first, and make sure the belt is tightened to spec and staying there (if it gets tighter/looser eventually that could be a big problem).

 

Well, I pussied out on the repairs, and traded my Integ for a CRX. Electrical prbs aren't exactly my thing. Thanks to everyone fo your help as always.