Could I use a B18c1 short block with the rest of the parts from my B18a1?
Would the stock ECU be able to cope with the jump form 9:1 to 10.6:1 with just better gas?

 

what parts do u mean exactly by "the rest of the parts" pistons, rods, crank??????

 

Every thing that doesnt come on a short block. lol
A short block is the block and the stuff inside, nothing eles.
ls/vtec has made c1 short blocks cheap and easy to get.

P.S. gotta go to work. be back on about 4 CA time.

 

are you saying you wanna put the b18a head on the b18c1 block?

 

Reverse ls/vtec?

 

Ya, Thats about the speed of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarFreek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Every thing that doesnt come on a short block. lol
A short block is the block and the stuff inside, nothing eles.
ls/vtec has made c1 short blocks cheap and easy to get.

P.S. gotta go to work. be back on about 4 CA time.</TD></TR></TABLE>


haha i know that but you confused me the way you typed it up. haha

 

You think it would need hondata?
Or wouls the stock ECU and better gas cut it?

 

Anyone?? ................. Yes, No, ... Maybe, .... Not at all?

 

Is there a reason you are replacing your shortblock? I would say spend the extra money and do a basic ls/vtec head swap. You won't regret the money spent, like you would if you replaced your whole shortblock instead of just putting decent pistons in your LS to raise the compression. What you want to do is basically a "crackhead" engine. The LS head is not going to do much with that block. My best friend used to have a DA with a balanced and knife edged ITR rotating assembly in an otherwise stock b18a. That thing had great torque throughout the low and mid range, but he didn't touch the head, which would have really opened up some power. BTW my b16 hatch that probably needed a rebuild(trapped 90 with i/h/e/testpipe) spanked that car, and my bone stock first gen dsm ran away from it like it was standing still.

 

Im not looking to get more power. I don't really want vtec.
The c1 is a much better short block. It's stiffer, better balanced, and stronger, Than the 1a/b1.
It has oil vanes that squirt the pistons for better cooling and lubrication, Witch the a1/b1 does not.
Im looking for longevity under extrema conditions.
I want to be able to run my car at the track all day, And drive it to work the next day.
The c1 short block seems much better suited for what i want to do with it.
And the much loved ls/vtec has made it so a good c1 short block can be picked up for about $200-$300.
I couldn't get a good set of pistons for an a1 for that little.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Ben’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a reason you are replacing your shortblock?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My stock motor spun a barring.

 

this thread is ridiculous

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarFreek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My stock motor spun a barring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ohhhhhhh ok. I thought you wanted to do this for the miniscule performance gains. I still honestly believe you would be better off money wise to upgrade your pistons and get a very cheap b18a block. My old DA used to take all the abuse I could dish out, including a 95 degree track day that I ran it 10 times at. At 125k it still put out 149-150-151-148 compression, and nothing was ever replaced from the oil pan to the valve cover except oil of course when I sold it at 140k. LS blocks are perfectly fine for durability, there are lots of 200k+ DAs driving around perfectly reliable. Do what you want, if I were you I would just replace the shortblock and put nice pistons in there. You can get new type r pistons for 100 or less.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Ben’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS blocks are perfectly fine for durability, there are lots of 200k+ DAs driving around perfectly reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That I know. My stock a1 made it to 214k, Being raced 4 times a month.
And would have lasted longer had my oil presser sensor been working and let me know it needed more oil.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this thread is ridiculous</TD></TR></TABLE>

???
What makes you say that?
If it is ridiculous and or will not work please let me know.
That is why I posted it.
If you think it is ridiculous or will not work. please let me know why.
That is what I was looking for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarFreek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What makes you say that?
If it is ridiculous and or will not work please let me know.
That is why I posted it.
If you think it is ridiculous or will not work. please let me know why.
That is what I was looking for.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He thinks that b/c it is a waste. I'm not sure if anyone has even done this before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He thinks that b/c it is a waste.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A waste of what?

 

time, money, effort

you explain to me why you don't like/want vtec, and i'll explain to you why this is a stupid idea

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you explain to me why you don't like/want vtec, and I'll explain to you why this is a stupid idea</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do like vtec, my girl has a 2000 GSR . I love the car.
Its not that I don't like vtec, But I race the car and its my dd.
The more simple the motor the less things their are to go wrong.
And a short block swap would take me 2 days and $300. (??If it would work??)
If I was going to go vtec I would want the better short block,
And would just do a GSR motor swap. But I don't have the time or the money for that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarFreek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A waste of what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A high revving, high compression bottom end mated to a relatively low revving, less flowing head that has cams meant for 9.2:1 compression and valvetrain meant for 7k rpms. You are probably spending several hundred for a GSR block, when I'm sure you can get an LS shortblock for 100-150 in good condition. You can do what you want to do, most of us just think it is illogical, that's all. If you're going to do this, then buy a b16/b18c1 longblock; for a little more money you are getting reliability and much more power.

 

This is not something Im hellbent on doing. Just something I was thinking about.

My thinking was. Please correct me if im wrong.
c1 is a better short block (stiffer, better balanced, and stronger) than the a1/b1?
If it would run ok off the stock a1 ECU, It would only cost me about $300.
Isn't junkyard upgrades what Honda's are all about?
My thinking is that when something brakes, That's a grate excuse to replace it with a better part.
I saw the c1 short block as a better part that's all.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Ben’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's all. If you're going to do this, then buy a b16/b18c1 longblock; for a little more money you are getting reliability and much more power. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not really looking for more power.
The cheapest c1 long block I could fined was $1500.
I only have about $600 to work with.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Ben’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sure you can get an LS short block for 100-150 in good condition.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you could fined me a LS short block for 100-150 in good condition,
THAT WOULD F*#%ING ROCK!

About 2 weeks ago I got a 95 B18b long block with 99,846 miles on it for $600 from a junkyard.
I was thinking "that's not bad!"
BUT ...... The coolant passages are F*#%ED, The water pump housing is badly pitted,
The head is warped, It eats oil & coolant, And when I load up the motor it gets exhaust bubbles
in the coolant. !!Instant over heat!!
I have about 6 weeks to figure out what im going to do before I cant take
the hunk of S#!T that's now in my car back and get my money back.
That's why I posted the question. Just to see if the c1/a1 might work.

 

Have you searched the MarketPlace here? First gen LS shortblocks go for pretty cheap.

 

That I will do.

Thanx!

 

whats this motor gonna be built for im assuming auto x right?

 

Wouldn't it cost less to just get an LS shortblock if you aren't going to use a VTEC head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bjones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats this motor gonna be built for im assuming auto x right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

DD/Autocross/Track days/whatever else I have the money for.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR in progress 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't it cost less to just get an LS short block if you aren't going to use a VTEC head?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I searched the Market Place and couldn't fined any LS short blocks.
And junkyards don't want to sell you the block with out the head.
But its easy to fined c1 Short blocks due to ls/vtes.


Modified by CarFreek at 8:12 PM 11/25/2007