<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont get it.. i went there and didnt understand..

HAVOKMKR... can u explain to me how this is supposed to work?

u have to have a vtec head right?

please dont flame..lol.. and i know it'll be hard not too</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you have to have a vtec head. I'm not sure how this kit works. I see that they accounted for the dowel pins and a new headgasket but I have yet to hear of anyone running this kit. I'm going to ask around and get some opinions but I never thought I'd see a conversion kit.

 

if i have a ls integra, and want to do the vtec conversion.. what head would be best to use for the money, and what are some head prices i should look for? u dont have to answer this quesiton if u dont want too... just asking, i can also ask around if u dont wanna answer

 

Vtec is engaged via oil pressure locking pins in between rocker arms to make the vtec lobe push all 3 rocker arms down to open the valves up higher for a longer period of time. It's just a more aggressive lobe that makes for a peakier powerband up top. I wouldn't know which head would be the best but I would personally find a B18C1 head, considering you'd never be able to use the B18C5 head to it's full potential.

As for head prices, look around, it would be cheaper to get one from a company that deals strictly with motors and heads, or to find one used and clean it up yourself.

 

don't worry dude, it happens to the best of us at one point.

 

well the kit has been out for some time now just not alot of people look at golden egales parts. But the kits provides everything u could need ot do this conversiob minus a head. Also youll need a vtec timing belt. I prefer to use the belt that matches the head. but some say always use si timing belt You definately want to upgrade to a gsr or type r oil and water pump for the extra cooling flow. Also scoop up a gsr block girdle to add to your ls main to give your bottom end more strength to handle the 8k redlines vtec offers. This is escpecially helpfull with the b20vtec since the weak sleves

 

k... so first step would be to check my local junkyard then..

and ima throw another question at you bro...


i have a 91 ls auto(i know i know, it was my first car) and i wanna do vtec, but then im tired of the auto situation.. so should i (A) do a trans swap to a 5spd (B) do engine swap with a gsr engine from a junkyard in good condition and swap it in and try to do the 5spd swap also (C) or just sell the car and try to find a gsr

 

honestly its not worth going threw all that on a 90 teg. The cost of lsvtec and 5spd you could get a 94+ gsr. Now before any says anything 5spd conversions are just as easy as ls/vtec IF you have all the CORRECT parts and Full knowledge of wtf yur doing. My 5spd conversion so far has cost me about

50 - Used LS FLywheel
15- Linkage
50 - Pedals
No tranny yet
150 - Axles + Intermediate shaft
150 - ECU
11 - Slave cylinder from O Reilly brand new
Free - M/C with resivour
And the only real pain in the a$# to get is the line the fluid has to run threw fromt he resivour along the firewall to the slave cylinder

 

other than that each conversion is cake

P.S. yo if u gots n e more ?'s aim me at fastlilhonda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k... so first step would be to check my local junkyard then..

and ima throw another question at you bro...


i have a 91 ls auto(i know i know, it was my first car) and i wanna do vtec, but then im tired of the auto situation.. so should i (A) do a trans swap to a 5spd (B) do engine swap with a gsr engine from a junkyard in good condition and swap it in and try to do the 5spd swap also (C) or just sell the car and try to find a gsr</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I would do starting with the most likely. 1) Sell the car and buy a GSR. 2) If that's not an option and you have mad cash to spend I would do the GSR swap and swap to manual w/a GSR tranny. 3) Swap in a B18C1 and keep my auto tranny and find a JDM SIR-G auto tranny ECU. 4) Do the LS/vtec conversion and manual swap. 5) LS/vtec conversion w/auto tranny and sir-g ecu.

It would be easier, and less expensive to just buy a GSR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Havokmkr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Some people say the ideal rod ratio is 1.75:1 or 1.77:1. Guess what? the Civic b16a 's rod ratio is 1.75:1</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if the b16a has the perfect rod ratio would a b16a short block that was bored and sleeved to be a 1.8L with some quality rods and pistons make for a significantly better bottom end then that of a GSR given the two had equal compression? Or is that where the "some people say" part comes in?

 

correct me if i'm wrong, but boring it out that much would weaken the sleeves/block...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91jteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i turn a b18a1 into a vtech if so what will something like that cost ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

About $50

 

hey, i like that phone..

so if i just put one of thoes by my intake, ill have VTECH right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So if the b16a has the perfect rod ratio would a b16a short block that was bored and sleeved to be a 1.8L with some quality rods and pistons make for a significantly better bottom end then that of a GSR given the two had equal compression? Or is that where the "some people say" part comes in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok if u can make a si a 1.8 liter you show me. A 84.5 sleeved si is only a 1.7 liter. If anything it will be stronger than a stock gsr bottom only because of the better pisotns and rods. And as far as that perfect r/s ratio crap it doesnt really matter. B16a only has a perfect ratio because it has such a low displacement

 

the rod stroke ratio thing is, has been, and always will be, completely moot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rod stroke ratio thing is, has been, and always will be, completely moot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

AMEN

 

wow!!! good ****. that was such a through explaination. props to havokmkr

oo fyi...that first thought that came to my mind was "man is he gonna get flamed.."

 

madd kudos to havokmkr.. here's a

But it's not the (n00bz) fault anyways.*sorry.. lol* He's got questions he needs answered so thats what we're here for.

and for 91TEG-G2, after all those modifications that you would of done, you would of past up an opportunity for a nice GSR. So definately keep your eyes wide open for one, and patience, patience, patience.. the right one will come up for you at a good price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XtremeCarTuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and for 91TEG-G2, after all those modifications that you would of done, you would of past up an opportunity for a nice GSR. So definately keep your eyes wide open for one, and patience, patience, patience.. the right one will come up for you at a good price. </TD></TR></TABLE>


bro i hope so, im tired of this automatic LS ish... the only reason i got the car was because it was my first car, and i liked the lights (ya it sounds funny) and it was the only integra for sell at the time that had a good body and was well taken care of but i think the car was and still might be a ***** is because a girl owned it be4 me. so it had the whole purple dash cover on..hehe.. but i mean i thought i was goin to get very tired of shifting, but i found out while having this car, as an automatic... you dont really driving until you drive a 5spd/6spd standard car..

EDIT* plus i can just do the JDM conversion to the gsr and have my headlights again!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
EDIT* plus i can just do the JDM conversion to the gsr and have my headlights again!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

so very tru

man dude u must love conversions lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ferio 95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok if u can make a si a 1.8 liter you show me. A 84.5 sleeved si is only a 1.7 liter. If anything it will be stronger than a stock gsr bottom only because of the better pisotns and rods. And as far as that perfect r/s ratio crap it doesnt really matter. B16a only has a perfect ratio because it has such a low displacement</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. I did not know if you could bore it that much or not. I basically wanted to know what kind of difference having the "perfect rod stroke ratio" would make. And apparently it is "moot".

So if you could change the rod stroke ratio in say a GSR motor to be "perfect" what would that do for you? What would you change to do such a thing? Rods? Crank shaft? Cylinders? If it would not do anything then how does the poor rod ratio of the LS affect an LS/Vtec set up as Havokmkr described? Or did I just not understand him?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So if you could change the rod stroke ratio in say a GSR motor to be "perfect" what would that do for you? What would you change to do such a thing? Rods? Crank shaft? Cylinders?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can perfect the stroke on any b series with a si crank but you would be destroking the motor and this would be a bad idea on a vtec motor cause less stroke means less torque

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it would not do anything then how does the poor rod ratio of the LS affect an LS/Vtec set up as Havokmkr described? Or did I just not understand him?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude that post havok made can be found on any website that is discussing ls/vtec. The r/s bs is just FLAT OUT CRAP and always be CRAP and nothing more than CRAP. ls/vtec is a very reliable IF you do the **** right. Now im not saying that is going to be more reliable than a normal honda motor but it can be very reliable. Maintaining a good ls/vtec requires constant oil psi, oil levels and good cooling. Just like a turbo setup oil is the key . If you got any ?'s about it just aim me at fastlilhonda

 

Thanks for the reply. I don't have AIM but I might IM you. I have a GSR so I probably won't be doing any LS/Vtec things to soon. But I may get a DA project car in the future and then it would be a possibility. I am mostly just trying learn more.

 

well u can email me if you wnat at kid2kg@hotmail.com.

And to all curios about ls/vtec. You have to remember on forums you wont ever find the info your looking for if its something somewhat new. You mention ls/vtec all you here is r/s blah and not posta b blah. They just dont no from experience. Ive built at least 5 ls/vtec's 2 bad one's(trial and error) and 3 very succesful ones os this is not new to me lol. but hey to each his own opinion

 

This is a good place to put down some info. You have experience and I have the questions those without experience would ask. So what would you say is the key or keys to building an LS/Vtec that is powerful yet reliable without it exceeding the cost of a equal power GSR motor. Good rods? Strong sleeves? Assuming the machining was perfect or irrelivant due to the use of that golden eagle kit mentioned earlier in the thread. If someone with knowledge and experience is prepared to share I am prepared to listen and I think some others would be interested.