ok so today my brand new zenki lugs got striped and fucked up my stud..

so i ask my uncle for help and he said he has a tool to fix the thread on the stud but the lugs are done for..

he also told me that aluminum lugs are ****.. and i should get steel or titanium.. my question is all the RAYS and SPOON lugs etc the expensive ones are aluminum so how could a lets say Muteki Titanium one be better?

 

anyone

 

how did they get stripped out

were you using air tools?

 

I would personally never get aluminum lug nuts. Aluminum is alot softer than steel. I mean really how much weight are you saving, like a pound or two total? I would rather use steel lug nuts and know that I would have no problems torquing them to spec without having to worry about the threads or the key or whatever stripping.

And titanium, well, I guess maybe if you got money to burn, but that sure sounds like a waste to me.

 

if your wheels snapped out and you run into an accident then you know those Al-lugs nuts are useless. Thread fixing tools are not recommended on suspensions as well as wheel, you know what you shuoldn't re-thread anything (bolts, studs, etc) in the car anyway. Not safe, not safe, if you considered safety is second then i have no words to say

 

How is rethreading not safe? If the threads are just messed up a little bit and not completely stripped off, there's nothing wrong with using taps and dies. I bought a tap and die set several years ago and it has saved me countless amounts of money and time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is rethreading not safe? If the threads are just messed up a little bit and not completely stripped off, there's nothing wrong with using taps and dies. I bought a tap and die set several years ago and it has saved me countless amounts of money and time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe not safe for those that don't know how to do it

Including myself. Besides I'd rather have it done right then do it myself and fubar it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is rethreading not safe?</TD></TR></TABLE>The original threads are probably rolled, not cut. Cutting leaves more crevices (stress concentration). Besides, when you cut, you're removing material. You're not UN-DOING the original damage, you're just cutting away some material. How much material can you remove before it's not strong enough any more?

Realistically, you're OK most of the time. Is that good enough?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is rethreading not safe? If the threads are just messed up a little bit and not completely stripped off, there's nothing wrong with using taps and dies. I bought a tap and die set several years ago and it has saved me countless amounts of money and time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well of course you can do things you want to do, you think it's safe then it safe. it happens to me before, it wasn't lug nuts. So from a point of view that im a victim of rethread so

 

well no accident or anything and no air tools.. so yea ic..a nd what did u mean by money to waste? cus titatinum lugs are cheaper then alluinum and how much are steel ones and could i even get steel ones? beside oem

 

"Muteki super tuner nuts are made in Japan of cold-forged 1008steel"

These are $35 for a set. I dont think its that bad if the material used is strong. Opinions from those that know their metals?

http://www.evasivemotorsports....de=L1

 

o so muteki are steel? someone told me they were alluminum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NemesisCBR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Muteki super tuner nuts are made in Japan of cold-forged 1008steel"</TD></TR></TABLE>1008 is a low-carbon steel (0.08%C, 0.3-0.5%Mn). 'Cold forged' is probably a marketing term that might cover many different levels of cold-work, & a wide range of strengths. It's not a bad material, but that's just not enough information for a designer to calculate allowable loads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dc2 Powered &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no accident or anything and no air tools.. so yea ic..a nd what did u mean by money to waste? cus titatinum lugs are cheaper then alluinum and how much are steel ones and could i even get steel ones? beside oem</TD></TR></TABLE>

Titanium lug nuts are cheaper than aluminum? Dang I sure as hell would stay away from those then, because titanium as a material is DEFINITELY more expensive that aluminum. You've never seen a titanium soft drink can have you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You've never seen a titanium soft drink can have you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. I would personally change the lug studs if you can. They can't be more than a few bucks at a local car parts store. I'm pretty sure on the front ones you can just tap them out and put in new ones without pulling the hubs.

 

these muteki lugnuts are cheaper here. $32.99 at http://shop.store.yahoo.com/yh....html

ICB motorsport in temple city.

 

rays lug are duralumin. i dont know what it is but it weighs bout as much as a couple of my pubic hairs and very sturdy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by billyhoe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rays lug are duralumin. i dont know what it is but it weighs bout as much as a couple of my pubic hairs and very sturdy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dennng, so your pubic hairs are as heavy as nuts, I mean lug nuts huh? Either that or you've been growing some sort of bush.


Personally, I've stripped studs from improper use of a torque wrench in combination with a long wheel lock key...

It can also be due to over torquing---low quality torque wrenches will do this (in which now, I just use my guns to determine how tight they are )

And as far as replacing them, you need to press out the wheel bearings to access them unlike the rears, you can just pop a stud out and pop a new wheel stud in.

 

well actually, rays lugs are light. i would say one lug nut is lighter then ur house key