how much will i get with a basic ls vtec swap. i mean ls bottom end, head and b16 tranny? i mean the basic ls vtec swap.

 

~155whp or so...you'd be lucky to get into the realm of a stock GSR. The compression is still rather low so you cant expect too much, but its still better than a stock LS

 

thanks. would you recommend the lsvtec swap? i mean for reliability purposes, cuz i heard that they are the wors when it comes to that...along with b20

 

An LS/VTEC build is only as good as the person building it. If you do everything properly, i dont see why it would be unreliable. Plenty of people run them and most have no problems. Turbo setups have the same stigma. A few dumb people slap together a pile-O-**** build and bitch when it blows up....never mind the other 100 setups that work fine, the one broken one defines everything.

 

your right. it only takes one blow up or a setup gone wrong to ruin the reputation of a swap i guess. well i know for the setup, you have o do it right down to the wire or it will all go wrong. the redline for it will be about the same right? well around the same as the b18a? or B?

 

You can keep the redline the same, but wont see as large of a gain from the VTEC head. My suggestion is to upgrade to ARP rod bolts and bump the redline up to around 8k

 

ok thanks, good info to know.i was going to do the swap on my 91 DA. i jst got a new motor for it about 2months ago with like 40,000 miles on it and it sounded like a good idea.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1676914

Best LS.Vtec DIY EVER!

 

umm wow...this thread is the end all be all of ls vtec threads... haha you wouldnt happen to have a thread for a really good poor mans type r build ? jw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em1gangsta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm wow...this thread is the end all be all of ls vtec threads... haha you wouldnt happen to have a thread for a really good poor mans type r build ? jw. </TD></TR></TABLE>

--- poor mans type r build = doesn't exist

 

but i thot it did. gsr bottom end and b16 head along with type r pistons and rods lol. pretty much that minor stuff with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em1gangsta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i thot it did. gsr bottom end and b16 head along with type r pistons and rods lol. pretty much that minor stuff with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

--- If your implying that a b16 head is even anywhere near on par with a ITR head you very wrong. The ITR internals are far superior to b16. As for the block, if you use gsr bottom end, you need ITR crank, rods, pistons. I dunno, it's not gonna be cheap. Hence there being NO poor man ITR builds.

 

im doing a ls vtec now and using type r pistons getting rods resized at machone shop and pistons installed you think its worth the $50 to have them micropolish crank at the same time or dont bother ls block has 110,000 miles but looks good using stock rods and arp rod bolts

 

you should create your own thread about whether or not is a good idea to micropolish your crank instead of thread jacking this one.

 

Although i see where you're coming from above, what he's referring to is the typical "Poor Man's ITR" which is basically a GSR block with a B16 head. The B16 and ITR heads share a lot in their design, but the valvetrain components are not as good on the B16. As for the bottom end, the GSR does have lower compression and a different crank...i forget if it's heavier or lighter...

Anyway, the point of all this is to use the larger displacement bottom end and bump the compression by using the B16 head. It isn't an ITR, but as far as Franken-swaps go, its pretty decent.

 

yeah i have ? poor mans type r and im runnin 85mm bored nad 11:1 CR, havent dyno'd it yet but i pulls preeeetty damn hard!

 

look at my sig, it also has a chipped p28 ecu and was street tuned on Crome... what do you think would be my WHP if you had to guess...

 

and ARP Rod Bolts