Hi wanting to build a lsv set up for my 91 DA..i would like to kno everything that
I need for the build any help????

 

yup,

1. google.com

2. Ls/vtec build

3. Read a bunch of threads

4. Build your ls/v

 

Cool thx any other advice welcome

 

I take it you have done a lsv build ??

 

If you are capable of finding your way to the all motor forum, you'll find this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

It takes research bruh.

 

no one is going to spoon feed you everything you need, there are hundreds of threads with information about it, as well as everything else in the world

 

I got a special LS/VTEC headgasket, but it appears that (depending on if you read Golden Eagle's write-up, or other builders' writeups) others say that you should use a VTEC one or a LS one. I can't tell you which to use, but when my motor goes back together, it's using a VTEC headgasket.

The dowels. A set of dowels that guides the VTEC head onto the LS block. These are sold in a little kit, reasonably inexpensively.

Something to get oil to the head. Some use an oil filter sandwich. Personally, I tapped into the block and T'd off of where I send oil to my turbo. Lots of options there.

The oil fittings and lines usually come in a kit.

Then, the head must be bored into to accept the oil. You really need to read about this and see the best place to drill. Many kits come with a boring tool to drill through where you need. On the same note, you (have to?) can fill in (like I did) the holes on the bottom of the head where it usually got oil from the block (I mean oil for VTEC). Some sell kits that allow you to not need any drilling, but I haven't seen (nor have I had any experience with) any of these. So I can't vouch for them. We took the manual route.

Then a VTEC ecu. It can be a chipped obd1 ECU that is capable of VTEC. Or it can be from a VTEC motor. The maps for the b16, b18c, b17a aren't wildly different (honestly) except for ignition timing. But b18c is probably the closest match. The best bet is to get a chipped ECU, a burn2 setup (ostrich), and get tuning software and a wideband O2 sensor. My friends and I use Crome. If you setup is not 'wild', you could probably get away with a GSR computer, and your car will run fine. I've flashed GSR maps before and they run my LS/VTEC without issue.

There really isn't much to it more than that. Most write-ups say that you can't use the GSR head bolts/studs. But I used my ARP GSR head bolts/studs, and they work fine. I never made sure to get LS ones, when I went from a b17a block to a b18a block. So, whatever.

Also, rev limit. With the rod ratio of a b18a/b/b20b/z, your rev limit should be under consideration. Honestly, I had a b20a (way worse rod ratio) that I took to 8700 all day. But most will tell you to keep it at 8200-8500 (depending on if you have rods, arp rod bolts, balanced crank, etc etc etc). I take my ls/vtec to 8400 all day, but mine is built to the teeth.

Your own research will lead you to most of these same things. Dowels to fit the head to the block. Oil gear to get oil from the block to the VTEC area of the head. A vtec ECU. LS head studs (which I refused to use and have no issues). A VTEC headgasket (or LS headgasket, depending on whose tutorial you're reading). And be wise to what torque specs you're using too (when bolting down the head, etc). Believe it or not, there's disagreement on that, as well. I usually err on the slightly tighter side. But by 'I', I mean my engine builder. So take that with a grain of salt.