My 94 gsr is lowered and was wondering do I need to dump alot of money into those stage 1 axles for turboed cars just because my ride is lowered because I will be traveling alot and don't want to break down in middle of nowhere? thanks.

 

no, you will not have any problems. It's a misconception that lowering a car wears out CV axles.

The CV axles are designed to work in a whole range of angles. At stock height the axles are angled down towards the ground anyway, so lowering it is not going to put any more stress on them. In some cases, depending on what drop you go with, the axles may very well be more parallel to the ground than when they were at stock height.

What DOES get stressed more is ball joints, especially the upper control arm ball joint and the outer steering tie rod ball joint.

 

It's weird cause after I lowered my car on my previous integra my axle went out after 3k and they never had problems or grease leaks.

 

sorry to be of topic but are aftermarket axles shorter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qwk db8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to be of topic but are aftermarket axles shorter</TD></TR></TABLE>

no. if they were shorter than what you have now, they wouldn't fit.

 

not to thread jack either but what are a good brand of axles for a turboed gsr putting out around 300whp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brick top &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no. if they were shorter than what you have now, they wouldn't fit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no they fit just short when the axle nut is of i can push it in about a inch with my finger

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usmarinedelta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's weird cause after I lowered my car on my previous integra my axle went out after 3k and they never had problems or grease leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was just a coincidence. I lowered my Integra at 105K miles, and my factory original axles lasted till about 165K miles, at which point I found the inner joint boots torn (outer joints were still fine).

Now I've had my current set of rebuilt axles on for probably about 70K miles or so, no problems.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qwk db8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to be of topic but are aftermarket axles shorter</TD></TR></TABLE>

The length of the axle is determined by where the small clamp on the inner joint boots is crimped around the axle shaft. The inner joint's tripod cup allows the joint to move axially, i.e. in/out, because as the suspension moves up and down, the distance from differential housing to hub changes. The axle has to change length as the suspension moves.

The Helm's manual shows what the length of the axle should be when off the car. I bought a pair of axles one time where the inner boot was clamped too far down on the axle shaft, so the axle was too short. If I had installed them on the car, it would have over-extended that inner joint boot. Now when I buy axles, I *always* take my Helm's and a tape measure with me to make sure they are the correct length before I leave the store.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dc2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to thread jack either but what are a good brand of axles for a turboed gsr putting out around 300whp?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock is sufficient. Stock ones are even used on setups running 10 second passes with 600whp. I believe that they have even been used in a high 9 second pass...but don't quote me on that because I don't feel like searching for the thread on here to back that up for sure. As with all axles just don't dump the clutch....preload the system if you are launching.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That was just a coincidence.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with that. I had an axle to last for 8 months on 375whp, then I rebuilt the entire motor/transmission. After I got it out of the shop I was on the highway and sheared it off where the splines meet the hub by the transmission on the passenger side. I was in <U>5th</U> gear at 50% throttle haha. Not too many people can say they sheared and axle in 5th gear

 

When you lower a car the angel of the cv joints change in relation to the hub. When the car is lowered that angel changes which can lead to binding and other issues. I remember having this issue on German cars. The solution was shortened cv axels.

 

lol what the hell, 13 years later?? You do realize that the axles are designed to work throughout the suspension range of motion, and lowering the car is still part of that range of motion, right?

My car has been lowered near 20 years. Axles still last me a number of years before the boots start to degrade. It’s not a problem. Stock axles are fine. Definitely DO NOT use shorter axles as that will put more stress on the boots and make it much easier for the inner tripod joint to pop out of the joint cup.

 

Great to hear you're still alive lol

I forgot to say that the issue I and others had only showed on automatic cars. Infant remember what exactly the issue was but I remember vividly one guy doing a big order of shortened axels and a bunch of people in the forum bought some to get rid of the popping and clunking noises coming from the axels.

I'm new to Honda so I don't know if this issue is common. I just know that since I lowered my Sedan I get this nasty popping sound coming from the center of the wheel when turning as if something is under immense pressure. It's not the ball joints or tur tie rod. I checked that. The sound is coming from th cv axel joint. My guess is that the new angle puts a strain on them and every time I turn the steering wheel the pressure releases leading to the clunking or popping sound. I'm not that low to the ground. My axels form a straight line not a V. Any idea what it could be?

.

 

I would say the outer joint is simply worn out. That happens sometimes when the joints get old. What shape are the boots in?

 

Both axels are new including all other suspension parts. If restore the cars height the clunking stops. It only occurs once it's lowered.

 

sounds like a low quality axle. I've had issues with cheaper axles out of the box.

 

They're both OEM.

 

Then I don't know. As I've said my car has been lowered nearly 20 years, and the only problems I've ever had with axle joints was when the boots were torn and contaminated the joint internals.

I do remember years ago when I replaced the CV joint boots on my mom's 2007 Toyota Camry. The axles were OEM and the boots were original and intact, but were leaking grease. I went ahead and replaced both boots on both axles with new OEM. I disassembled the inner joint to get the boots on and off. Definitely did NOT use that split boot junk. I'm not sure if the leaking boots would have been a problem or not, but we went ahead and changed them anyway as a preventative measure.