so im going to be replacing my clutch soon being it has 185000 on the factory clutch bought a exedy clutch and 7.5lb flywheel after talking with a friend who builds cars for track he said he would not recomend putting a lightweight one on my car. i am up in the air with this. need advice remember this is my daily driver so what should i do. (97 gsr)

 

I have an ACT 8lbs flywheel and it through me off a bit at first. I almost stalled many times as the revs dropped fast. But over time, I've gotten to like and prefer it. I use it on my GSR which I daily drive and autocross with. If you like how your car drives now, why not stick with an oem flywheel or maybe go with a 12 or 9lbs flywheel. Or find someone who has a lightweight flywheel installed in their car and see if you can drive it.

 

when you say rpm drops quickly do you mean your car does not idle well?

 

flywheel weight is a personal call. i don;t mind a fidanza at all provided its mated with an organic disc. aggressive clutches like ceramic, iron, copper etc are like on/off switches as it is, the light flywheels just amplify an already touchy clutch. with organic there's not a lot of difference.

 

The car will idle fine, but revs will drop off more quickly. When you take off from a stop light or something, you'll have to give it more throttle than you would with a heavier flywheel because there's not as much inertia being carried by the light weight flyeheel to get the car moving like a heavier one. The upside is that when you cram the throttle, the car will rev up faster aiding in acceleration. Just shift fast, because the revs will drop quicker too. You'll also free up some horsepower since less is lost spinning a lighter flywheel. I personally think 7 lbs is to light. 10 lbs is as low as I would go though.

 

Pretty sure a flywheel that light will unbalance your engine but maybe im wrong, might wannt get a light harmonic or a fluid harmonic with it

 

it doesn't and you don't want to change the damper. what you can do is have the flywheel balanced if you want to get it down to the last gram. some engines like say a gen 1 350 are external balance where a flywheel does have a big impact and needs to be balanced with the engine.

 

So are b series internally balanced?

So yea id say put that flywheel on all day lighter the better just shift quik like the previous post said

 

yes, ideally you would put the whole assembly on a spintron but its often impractical do do so. as long as the flywheel is balanced its not destructive to the bottom end

 

Thanx man good to know

 

thanks for all the input i think im gonna go ahead and throw it on feel it out should be fun, just interesting to get used to.

 

I was kinda thinking about doing this to my dd GSR 1995 and thought - if flywheel is lighter than I have already got use to it by trying to do quick shifts all the time I will risk damaging my gearbox synchros if I fail to engage clutch properly which happens sometimes as a matter of a fact when running under pressure and racing someone, plus imbalance on the engine is another risk... I hate this Idea already... I'll just probably stay with my OEM flywheel. More low end torque, better MPG as I wont have to give it more throttle at every take-off, and more stable rpm range trough out and while shifting or even quickshifting

 

You obviously didn't read the thread cause sidewayz just informed us that our engines are internally balanced.

Look up a couple post^

 

maybe I misread something but ok, w/o the balancing issue there's plenty of NO for me...

 

and driving with them is really a piece of cake FYI

 

well... I wish to have a lend of DC2 with such flywheel, then I'd know for sure worth or not... for now I wont chance it

 

Quicker revs for the cost of not being able to granny shift, plain, simple, and deff worth the 3 hrs to switch it.

Find a car with one like u said and see for yourself

 

I can quick shift, I'm unsure how good my synchro's are so Im a bit afraid of crunching them down after lightweight flywheel is fitted

 

I didnt notice anything when i switched from a gsr flywheel to my exedy 8 pounder. Al i noticed is the rpms go up as fast as they drop down. I dont have to give extra gas while going from dead stops. And i get great gas millege. 35-37mpg driving like a gramma shifting at 2.5-3k butt thats with usdm r pistons wich makes it run a tad leaner. Id say go for it. what brand name is the flywheel that you bough...?

 

You grind any gears already?

 

No, they slot in just perfect, never had a problem, just sometimes when speeding from 0 to 160kmh quick shifting to 3'rd somehow I manage to fail fully engaging the clutch... and it stops right before with this "grgrgrgrgr" sound, then I must in a split of a second release the gear reengage the clutch fully and 3'rd gear slots in just fine, but I've noticed it allways happens (if it happens) shifting to third gear only... could it be synchros, my tranny oil - 10w-40 semi synthetic(recent change) or it could be just me?

 

Yea might have been the oil, synthetic aint good for the synchros they need some friction

 

my suggestion for anyone going with lighter flywheel be careful about the all Aluminum flywheels. The teeth are prone to breaking over time if abused. Ideally you want to get a aluminum/steel flywheel like the Clutchmaster which is about ~8lbs one of the lightest on the market and has steel teeth which make is much more durable but it comes at a cost.

 

the teeth are only used when the starter engages ........

how does abuse effect this?

 

synthetic is fine as long as its made for gear boxes with the correct friction modifiers. redline mtl works great in B series boxes, honda mtf and GM syncromesh are two other popular but non syn oils.