Integra sometimes idle rough.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Ghetto side saint paul, MN, US of Amelika
SETUP: 94 integra LS Automatic (Girlfriends Car)
-Completely Stock.
PROBLEM: Only happens sometimes: it idles and drives rough. Has even died
once.
INCIDENTS: -The first time it died, the mechanics said that someone had
sprayed water on the engine so: vapor lock. The Spark
Plugs were burnt out so I replaced them. Ran ok for a couple
days.
-second time the spark plugs looked ok. So her brother
replaced the dist cap, rotor and spark plug wires. (should've
looked to see if the rotor was worn out or not, but he threw it
away already. Ran ok for a couple days.
-Third time it happened, her brother then replaced the
whole distributor. So far, it runs okay. but only for now.
DESCRIPTION: -It will Jump from 400 rpm to about 1.5k rpm in idle.
-When you gas it while it's having this problem, it feels like you're
only driving on two cylinders.
-The loss in power only happens in 1 second intervals. ie. (you
have full power, then you only have two cylinder power, you
have full power, then only two cylinders, etc.)
WHAT"S BEEN DONE: -Fuel filter has just recently been changed.
-Fuel pressure seems about right (46)
-Timing belt looks good.
-Timing is right on.
-Spark plugs and wires are brand spankin' new.
- New Distributor
<U>HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND HOW HAS S/HE SOLVED IT?</U>
-Completely Stock.
PROBLEM: Only happens sometimes: it idles and drives rough. Has even died
once.
INCIDENTS: -The first time it died, the mechanics said that someone had
sprayed water on the engine so: vapor lock. The Spark
Plugs were burnt out so I replaced them. Ran ok for a couple
days.
-second time the spark plugs looked ok. So her brother
replaced the dist cap, rotor and spark plug wires. (should've
looked to see if the rotor was worn out or not, but he threw it
away already. Ran ok for a couple days.
-Third time it happened, her brother then replaced the
whole distributor. So far, it runs okay. but only for now.
DESCRIPTION: -It will Jump from 400 rpm to about 1.5k rpm in idle.
-When you gas it while it's having this problem, it feels like you're
only driving on two cylinders.
-The loss in power only happens in 1 second intervals. ie. (you
have full power, then you only have two cylinder power, you
have full power, then only two cylinders, etc.)
WHAT"S BEEN DONE: -Fuel filter has just recently been changed.
-Fuel pressure seems about right (46)
-Timing belt looks good.
-Timing is right on.
-Spark plugs and wires are brand spankin' new.
- New Distributor
<U>HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND HOW HAS S/HE SOLVED IT?</U>
i have close to the same problem. but when i drive its normal only at idle. did u try reseting your ECU or maybe its a sensor in ur case. sounds like maybe a O2 or Map or TPS. but i've had this problem for 2 months and its worsen so i havent been driven it
I am having a problem much like your and htis waht i have been told to do I have not had a chance to do it 4 I have been very busy
gsrman99
"I would look at the ECT (engine coolant tempreture) sensor. Since it only happens at a certain tempreture there is probably an open or short in it and is only visable at that tempreture. to understand this you have to understand how an ECT works.
Time to go to school. Your computer in your car sends 5 volts to the ect. depending on how much volts it takes and puts back to the computer lets the computer know how cold the engine is.
example of a good ECT:
80 degrees out side, 80 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 4.65 volts
80 degrees out side, 200 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 2.02 volts
bad ECT (your problem)
80 degrees out side, 200 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 5 volts
so baisicly your engine thinks the engine is to cold so its gonna dump fuel to warm it up. this condition could go in reverse too. it the engine is cold and the computer thinks its hot you will not have enough fuel.
my suggestion to your problem is test your ect by back probing it when u wake up and then after you drive your car. get the voltage reading and see if it makes sense. have a nice day "
gsrman99
"I would look at the ECT (engine coolant tempreture) sensor. Since it only happens at a certain tempreture there is probably an open or short in it and is only visable at that tempreture. to understand this you have to understand how an ECT works.
Time to go to school. Your computer in your car sends 5 volts to the ect. depending on how much volts it takes and puts back to the computer lets the computer know how cold the engine is.
example of a good ECT:
80 degrees out side, 80 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 4.65 volts
80 degrees out side, 200 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 2.02 volts
bad ECT (your problem)
80 degrees out side, 200 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 5 volts
so baisicly your engine thinks the engine is to cold so its gonna dump fuel to warm it up. this condition could go in reverse too. it the engine is cold and the computer thinks its hot you will not have enough fuel.
my suggestion to your problem is test your ect by back probing it when u wake up and then after you drive your car. get the voltage reading and see if it makes sense. have a nice day "
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Ghetto side saint paul, MN, US of Amelika
Well, I've already done all that. And the check engine light has not came on
-I disconnected the TPS and the check engine light came on. It then idles rough but it's not the same as the problem that I get.
-O2 sensor, wouldn't the check engine light come on for that? It looks fine.
-Map is still good, we already tried replacing it with a good one.
-ECU has been reset, but makes no difference.
I think I might check the ECT. The thing is.... <U>Where is the ECT?</U> Any Pictures? If not, I'll look for it in a manual.
Thanks for any tips or ideas, they are much appreciated.
-I disconnected the TPS and the check engine light came on. It then idles rough but it's not the same as the problem that I get.
-O2 sensor, wouldn't the check engine light come on for that? It looks fine.
-Map is still good, we already tried replacing it with a good one.
-ECU has been reset, but makes no difference.
I think I might check the ECT. The thing is.... <U>Where is the ECT?</U> Any Pictures? If not, I'll look for it in a manual.
Thanks for any tips or ideas, they are much appreciated.
On my b20(and im sure most other b series engine) the ECT was located under the distributor, maybe a little to the left. I can take a pic and post it if you need one.
Have you tried to clean out your idle air control valve, it is located on the back side or on top of your intake manifold. My 2001 GSR with 106,000 miles was doing the exact same thing that you are talking about. Ever sense I have cleaned it the prob. has gone away.....hope this helps....
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I just took the two or three bolts that were holding it on, out left the coolant lines connected, put some old towels under it and sprayed a the heck out of it with throttle body cleaner. You will see the two little screens that I am talking about, mine were all covered up with this black stuff, like soot. Just kept spraying and moving it all kinds of ways, I did not stop until I saw just clear liquid coming out. Then when I was done cleaning it I waited no time, just put it back together and started it up, it ran crappie for a min or two, But when I was done with the test drive it has been fine ever sense. You might want to let it dry up some before putting it back together, that is up to you....hope this helps....
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