Ok well its been like a few months since Ive had this. When I had my stock gsr manifold everything worked great. After the Skunk2 manifold install my car idles up and down from 1000-2500rpms. Ive been reading up on this and Ive changed out all the Valves. Got a new emission canister cuz mine was broken, all the hoses are connected tightly. When I have the A/C it stays at idle good for a while then jumps up and down, and when A/C is off the idle moves up and down all the time. I dont know what other thing to check.

 

did you check your idle air control valve? thats the one on the back of the intake manifold.

 

anybody else have any input, my friends car has the same problem im trying to solve..

I was thinking vacuume lines but imnot sure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BSERIESPOWER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you check your idle air control valve? thats the one on the back of the intake manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea dude, I replaced that one already. I have no other clue to help me determine the problem of my car.

 

air leak and adjust ur tottle cable

 

Do you have any CEL codes? FITV, throttle position..possibly

 

so did u solve it??

 

Any wires unplugged? My ls would do that when one wasn't plugged in, or if the FPR hose came off.

 

Well I did replace the Throttle cable with an ITR one, I didnt adjust it. What Im I suppose to do to adjust it though, So I can do it right after work.

Note: IT does it when AC is Off, and stops when AC is on and then continues.

 

I aslo replaced the top sensor, from the throttle body from an lsvtec motor I have laying around, its good. I think CELS of the throttle position and the vtec solenoid came out but this is recent the idle problem ive had it for months without thee check engine light on.

 

its a vacuum leak. my friend had the same problem. recheck all your work you didnt put a vacuum line back on for sure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EndlessDc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a vacuum leak. my friend had the same problem. recheck all your work you didnt put a vacuum line back on for sure</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hopefully its that, I'll take a picture of the vacuum lines and of the coolant lines to see if you guys can help me out. I want to have it ready by tomorrow I dont like having my car sounding like Sh*t, lol

 

did you change the throttle body when you changed the manifold by any chance? there is a whole in the stock throttle bottle allowing vacum to enter the matching hole in the manifold, most after market manifolds dont have this whole.... what you are going to have to do is take out the "plunger like" valve underneath the throttle body that allows coolant to cool down the throttle body, then seal up the holes underneath the throttle body, dont forget to connect the coolant hoses that used to go to that valve and connect it to the hose going into the intake manifold......good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rdssk8rcs1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you change the throttle body when you changed the manifold by any chance? there is a whole in the stock throttle bottle allowing vacum to enter the matching hole in the manifold, most after market manifolds dont have this whole.... what you are going to have to do is take out the "plunger like" valve underneath the throttle body that allows coolant to cool down the throttle body, then seal up the holes underneath the throttle body, dont forget to connect the coolant hoses that used to go to that valve and connect it to the hose going into the intake manifold......good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok So I plug the two tubes on the bottom of the throttle body, and connect the lines together RIGHT??

Its the lil valve that carries the springs inside to adjust the idle right, I plug the inlets to that and then re-route the hoses instead of going into the valve, is that what you mean. If yes then Imma get this fixed today.


P.S. Yes I do have the stock Throttle Body.

 

Hey, my old LS was doing that too. i took it to the dealer and they figured the problem. I had a crack in the block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rdssk8rcs1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you change the throttle body when you changed the manifold by any chance? there is a whole in the stock throttle bottle allowing vacum to enter the matching hole in the manifold, most after market manifolds dont have this whole.... what you are going to have to do is take out the "plunger like" valve underneath the throttle body that allows coolant to cool down the throttle body, then seal up the holes underneath the throttle body, dont forget to connect the coolant hoses that used to go to that valve and connect it to the hose going into the intake manifold......good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the man i wanted to hear from lol nice write up jimmy

 

haha yeah well i thought i needed to share that because it took me about a month to finally get around to finding the problem and fixing it....save you some time

 

I tried that dude, but i Dont know if I have to plug up the holes real good I just did it the cheap way I pu on some screws to plug them. LOL But its still doing it.

 

hey, i have th re answer which i guess you guys are all new to the honda world because this is an old problem that used to get discussed here on the dail a few years back. but anyway...

it's your throttle postioning sensor. no need to replace anything. it's an easy fix. just take the throttle body off, then replace the two rivet looking screws on the TPS with ones you can use, i always use torx bits. then start the car, adjust it til the surging stops.

 

it could be one of many problems, i would think that he would have tried adjusted that sensor but more often than not its a vacume leak somewhere around the engine, and if it was a vacume leak it would have to be air tight so some screws in the holes in the throttle body probably wouldnt fix it

 

You want help well u got it.
jus check out this tread it might solve ur problem
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1564019

 

I finally fixed the problem...

It was the TPS. You dont have to "Drill" it out. Simply get a hand saw and cut across the rivets to make it seem like if it were a screw, after you completely cut down to where you reach the end then get a flat head and unscrew it that way you can use it again.

Now to adjust the TPS, if you have a VAFC, set it in the Throttle volts. (You dont need to turn the car on) Just have the key turned all the way untill the acc. lights are on. Then adjust the TPS. The closer you move the TPS to the pass. side the voltage will go up to a max of .6 and if you move it to the driver side itll be .4. In this case I set mine at exactly .60. It idled completely fine, but the idle was at 2k rpms. So after letting the car warm up the idle never went down so I took off the throttle body, and adjusted the screw to close the throttle a bit and lower the idle. Then after that, My car idles completely fine and idles at 900rpms. HOPE this works for you guys.

 

ya but now your dumpin more fuel than u should be, the sensor is supposed to be at .5 when the throttle is closed

 

YEa sorry if I didnt mention this when u adjust the lil screw on the throttle bracket it lowers the voltage and evens it out. so its more like .465

 

i had the same problem just replace your throttle body position sencer