I'm having issues with my Integra's idle.

'93 Acura Integra
B18b1.
Stock motor.
Distributor Cap/Rotor/Wires/Filters/Ect all have less then 5500 miles on them.

The motor idles a little rough, and seems to be higher then normal. It used to idle fine, and didn't have any problems so I assume something went bad.

When the car is COLD it will idle above 2,000+ rpm's. When it's warmed up it idles at 1400 or so. The idle is pretty solid until you touch the throttle. Say the car is idling at 1400rpm's, if you touch the throttle maybe 1%, it jumps up to 1800 or so, then blips up to 2000 before falling down to 800 or so, stumbling, then going back to 1400 or so and holding. It will do it every time.

The IACV was cleaned only a few months ago when I rebuilt the motor. About 6,000 on the motor so far, and i'm developing this issue.

Any idea's or suggestions for me?
Thanks in advance.

 

Got tired of CI?

 

Not at all. I'm just more likely to find the answer here. A lot bigger community.

 

check coolant level then check if there is air in the coolant system.

smack the iacv a few times with a screw driver handle or something. if the idle changes. then the iacv might be the problem. good luck

 

You can check the throttle body where the idle adjustment screw is. You should also get a can of Carb cleaner and spray out your throttle body and any vacuum ports off the intake. Are you hearing any sucking noise coming out of the engine bay, check all you vacuum lines. Even a very small rot in the lines can make this happen. You need to do an idle rest, if all vacuum lines are fine and you have cleaned the throttle body. You have to unplug the EIACV and adjust the idle screw, you need to be at 550 rpm just about the idle that wants to die, then plug the EIACV back in and you should be at 740-750 rpms. You need to have the car warmed up to normal operating temp.

If you want to check for coolant in the intake you need to rev up high and see if there is any moisture coming out of the exhaust but you can't do this on a cold start need to be warmed up.

 

I bled the coolant system out and the problem didn't change at all. I will try smacking the IACV tomorrow, thanks.

The throttle body should be fairly clean. I mean, it was spotless last time I had my intake off, so I assume it still is. I squirted starting fluid around the intake to try to find any vacuum leaks and it would appear I have none. All my vacuum lines are brand new, so no leaks there.

I did try adjusting the idle screw tonight but it didn't change the RPM's at all. I guess I will try it again tomorrow during daylight and see how it goes.

Thanks for the suggestions. Any more is appreciated.

 

Have you tried adjusting your advance on the distributor. You can unscrew the bolts attaching the distributor enough that you can turn it left and right by hand. Start the car, get to operating temp. and slowly turn the distributor you should be able to here it rev high or low, you need to retard the timing. Turn to the left very slowly a millimeter at a time. Not much is needed.

 

Ok check it I got the right procedure straight from the source! You need to look under the passenger side dash next to the blower motor there should be a light grey wire sticking out not plugged into anything. The wire colors under the sleeve are green and brown. You need to get a suitable gauge wire to jump loop this plug, I say a 14 would do fine. Stick it in both plugs to jump the wires and loosen the distributor to turn back the timing to the right rpms. If you turn the distributor all the way to the right and it still idles high check your throttle body were the throttle cable attaches you have a vacuum diaphragm that keeps the throttle up so it doesn't die. You can adjust your throttle cable to help adjust your idle too. If it is idling high after adjusting the distributor you can loosen the throttle cable to bring it down. Use two 12mm wrenches and loosen the nut on the right of the cable holder and push the cable to the left and tighten the nut on the left of the cable holder to take out tension and a little will do you. Keep in mind the car is running while you do this because of operating temp. Once you get the revs down to 700-800 rpms tighten everything for a second time to make sure it doesn't loosen under vibration, your distributor the throttle cable. Once it is done go back to the plug and remove the jumping wire, this will reset the idle for the computer.

 

Adjusted the timing.
Changed spark plugs.
Tried adjusting the idle screw. (It didn't effect the rpm's at all.)
The throttle cable isn't holding the throttle open, so it has no effect on the rpm's.

Adjusting the timing, the idle got down to 1,100 but I can't get it any lower then that.

I forgot to tap on the IACV, i'll try that when I get home.

 

you can try smacking the iacv but really is that how you want to do it, going around smacking things on the motor. If that were the case just get a new iacv seal and take it off and use carb cleaner and blast out both sides of the iacv and replace the seal and put it back on. the piston in the iacv needs to be flexed if it were stuck open to idle high.

 

I don't know if that's the case or not. If smacking it actually effects the idle, I'll replace the IACV, however since I do not know if the IACV is bad or not, smacking it is just about the best suggestion i've heard to seeing if it's bad..

 

I had a similar sounding idle problem but mine bounced a bit, and was idling high. The issue was the FITV. Cleaned it and screwed the adjustment screw (inside the valve) all the way in.. Im not positive that your motor has the FITV but i think it does.

 

do you have the TB bypass done? i have seen that happen to a car with that before.

 

I might clean and swap my spare IACV/FITV just to be sure that's not the problem.

K20Ftw, I do not know what you mean by the TB bypass, so I am assuming I do not lol.

 

Thanks for everyone who replied!

I feel really stupid but...
I had two of my vacuum lines reversed on the TB. Everything is working great now.

Thanks again!