i have had issues with my dealership, nothing they could help.
1st part is on back order.
2nd tech is off.
excuse after excuse, well part is there and i am confident i can install the parts.

HOW DO I INSTALL AN IGNITOR?
also does the screw that goes into the rotor need thread lock)locktite?

I have a helm's so if that helps what pages should i reference, what tools to take with me?

 

size 8mm deep socket and extension for cap
size 12mm socket with extension to take distributor off
a nice sett of small allen key to take off rotor
and a phillips screwdriver to take off ignitor..

make sure to place a mark on your distributor and the head to mark timming..

 

which part is the actual ignitor the coil? i am confused no where in the helms is it refered to as an ignitor!

 

in the helms book it is the icm, found that much out, do i need anything to keep the rotor's screw in? or just tighten it to the point that it will almost break the rotor!

 

I need to get my ignitor replaced also and would like to know how to install it myself; I'm kinda low on funds right now. Anyone care to give specific details on how to do this; any trick tips or workarounds will be awesome also! Thanks!
BTW, I have a '94 GSR w/134k miles.

 

Do you have to take the dizzy off? I am in the process of changing my coil and ignitor and I cant get to the 2 screws holding the ignitor in place. Thanks for you help!

 

This is a very easy 5 minute job.

Visual:


Details:

1. Take off plug wires.
2. Remove 3 screws from dizzy cap with a 8mm(?) socket (NOT a screwdriver)
3. Turn over ignition until the white part of the rotor faces the front of the car. The goal is to align the rotor bolt with the opening on the back of the cap (6).
4. Unscrew rotor bolt with phillips screwdriver very carefully not to strip.
5. Pull rotor gently outward. Force will not make it come out easier.
6. Remove dust cover cap plastic thing (6).
7. If you see red dust, your magnetic pickups are wearing out. Look into replacing the dizzy shell (4). Clean out dirt.
8. The ignitor (Ignition Control Module) is part number 8. The coil is part number 12. Unscrew the wire-clamping bracket from ignitor.
9. Pull plug wires from the 4 tabs remembering which wire goes where. Take a picture or draw it out if you have ADD.
13. The ignitor is the same for the B18C and B18B but the seat bracket attaches differently:
GSR: Remove two bolts holding ignitor (ICM) from under dizzy with socket.
LS: Unscrew bolt holding the ignitor from the inside.
14. Reverse procedure to put it all back together.

You do not need to remove the dizzy to do this but it is easier on GSR's to reach the bolts underneath if you do take it off. Just make sure you remember the orientation of the cam and mark the timing. No need for loctite on the rotor bolt. Just make sure it's nice and tight and don't strip the damn screw.

 

I did mine ealier today. I decided to just try my luck and after much debating, I took the dizzy off. And discovered the two screws on the bottom of the dizzy that hold the ignitor in place. Once I took those out, it was a breeze.

I also replaced the coil today. Total of $162 from advance auto. I think I might have messed up my timing by the shaft inside the dizzy when I put it back on though. It did turn whil I had it off. Tomorrow I am going to take it back off, turn the shaft 180 degrees and see if my car will start. I hope it does man. I hate this crap. I have been working on it for a week, trying to figure out whats wrong with it.

 

Distributor will only go on one way. It has a tapered thing (don't know what else to call it) so if you put it in wrong, it wont sit flush.

As for not starting, make sure your wires are in the proper order and you plugged back in the wires. Here's the order of wires if your looking directly at the distributor from the passenger side. BTW crank pulley is #1, distributor side is #4.

3 4 (top)
1 2 (bottom)

Hope that helps ya.

 

if the shaft of the distributor has been turned while it was off the head, would that cause any problems?

also, i have a 94 LS distributor and would like to know how i get to the two screws that are further in the distributor housing that is underneath one of the sensors?

lastly, one of the screws that faces the passenger side of the bay has stripped. any tips on removing this screw?

 

Vice grips or pliers almost always work for stripped screws. And its kinda hard to put a distributor on 180 off. The prongs on it are offset so it would take a lot of weed to stick that thing on wrong. Seriously an ignitor is a 5 minute job very easy. Just really unscrew it all and put it all back together. Make sure you don't mix your wires up though.

 

Well, I got it all together and running. It turns out that my whole problem was my damn rotor. The screw that holds it on the shafts had come out and I didnt even realize that when I was taking it all apart.

ignitor was a quick job. The only hard part about it was the two screws that hold it on that plate that gets mounted to the distributor housing (if you dont know, you'll find out).

Now she is running, but the tach is jumping, and she bogs down after a certain rmp and feels like there is no power in fifth gear at all. Im going to check all my connection in a few minutes to see if that solves anything. If that doesnt do it, Im gonna try advancing my timing from the dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sack Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vice grips or pliers almost always work for stripped screws. And its kinda hard to put a distributor on 180 off. The prongs on it are offset so it would take a lot of weed to stick that thing on wrong. Seriously an ignitor is a 5 minute job very easy. Just really unscrew it all and put it all back together. Make sure you don't mix your wires up though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, used the vise grips thanks to the advice of Arturbo. I changed out the ignitor and didn't realize at the time that, it is only screwed down with the two screws on the housing. the whole time i thought there were additional screws holding it down that is deeper in the housing, below one of the sensors.

i came to realize that the screws i was looking at, were the screws that holds the ignitor on the backplate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sack Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And its kinda hard to put a distributor on 180 off. The prongs on it are offset so it would take a lot of weed to stick that thing on wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

really? it looks as if it can be mistakenly flipped upside down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch4urSnatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

really? it looks as if it can be mistakenly flipped upside down. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Look at your distributor, you can see the offset. It's not much but it doesn't take much.

 

I fixed my tach jumping prblem. She is running like new now. I had bad (loose)connections on my ignitor.