how bad ????? HELP!
ok bought my dx swap with a " supposibley a 1989 ls swap" NON sense, guess there is no b18a made in 89 bullshit. so i bought the car and didnt change the oil cause i knew the kid and it was changed before i bought it. so of course its a honda i check the oil more then evertime i fill up. well the oil light has been on a lot. brother is driving the car to school hears the engine making weird noise. stops pulls over drives back home a couple miles away. ends up draining oil, only about 1.5-2 quarts with a TON of metal in there. Turns out there is a wrong dipstick on there and we've been runing low on about 1-3 quarts for the past 3-5 weeks. the noise was a rod bearing. that we have out and orderd new ones. what are the chances we can put new rod bearings in and keep driving it with the right amount of oil ? and everything is orange if u look up at the motor from under the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lilpastrana »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah ur dumb.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice reply
IF you had a spun bearing, you would know it, because rodknock is not easily overlooked.
And goodluck on swapping out a new bearing ..
There is a LOT more work behind it depending on how long you ran without a bearing on that journal,
Your crank could be fucked enough that it can't be resurfaced either,
which it's not even that cheap to have done in the first place.
But to have to go with a new crank, you're better off getting a new motor.
Nice reply
IF you had a spun bearing, you would know it, because rodknock is not easily overlooked.
And goodluck on swapping out a new bearing ..
There is a LOT more work behind it depending on how long you ran without a bearing on that journal,
Your crank could be fucked enough that it can't be resurfaced either,
which it's not even that cheap to have done in the first place.
But to have to go with a new crank, you're better off getting a new motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But to have to go with a new crank, you're better off getting a new motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed
But to have to go with a new crank, you're better off getting a new motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice reply
IF you had a spun bearing, you would know it, because rodknock is not easily overlooked.
And goodluck on swapping out a new bearing ..
There is a LOT more work behind it depending on how long you ran without a bearing on that journal,
Your crank could be fucked enough that it can't be resurfaced either,
which it's not even that cheap to have done in the first place.
But to have to go with a new crank, you're better off getting a new motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
new motor.....replacing bearings not worth the time. agree with cleanlikejdm
Nice reply
IF you had a spun bearing, you would know it, because rodknock is not easily overlooked.
And goodluck on swapping out a new bearing ..
There is a LOT more work behind it depending on how long you ran without a bearing on that journal,
Your crank could be fucked enough that it can't be resurfaced either,
which it's not even that cheap to have done in the first place.
But to have to go with a new crank, you're better off getting a new motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
new motor.....replacing bearings not worth the time. agree with cleanlikejdm
Disagree... new motors can cost a crap load. I'd go as far to say a good shape crank for $150 and new bearings and stuff (possibly new rod) for less than $300... $450 < $1000+ for a new motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MatrixGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Disagree... new motors can cost a crap load. I'd go as far to say a good shape crank for $150 and new bearings and stuff (possibly new rod) for less than $300... $450 < $1000+ for a new motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
dont forget to add in labor charges. it's gonna add up.
on the other hand you can find a b18a shortblock for cheap and swap it in with relative ease.
dont forget to add in labor charges. it's gonna add up.
on the other hand you can find a b18a shortblock for cheap and swap it in with relative ease.
find me a BRAND NEW LS motor for under $1000 and i'll gladly take back that comment. I'm not referring to previously used swaps, I've seen them on ebay for $600 (long block).
well new bearing are already in said it was a peice of cake. but there is still a very small knock. thinking that there was wear on the journal and it is from the rod/ bearing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you put in new bearings without touching the crank?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol.. x2
Ouch?
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol.. x2
Ouch?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.. x2
Ouch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
expensive ouch
Ouch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
expensive ouch
30 dollars we do all work ourselves so no labor charges. and we are getting new rods, bearings, possibley pistons and a new crank. engine is getting pulled as soon the freakng rear lca's come in for my gsr thats in the garage.
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