Oh, one weird thing is that if I reset the ecu like disconnecting the battery for like 15 minutes then replugging it in again the Check engine light dissapear? Well, did that yesterday and thought the check engine light was nothing because that time I didn't read the code. So now, today goin home from work that check engine light came back on agian please help. Went home and check for the code it was throwing code 9 Please help. How do I fix this CYP Sensor? Also can I throw code 19 (Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve) on my 01 gsr manual? Cuz i'm not sure if the begining flash was the starting point or is it just a pause? Cuz I been watching the flashes over and over and that one long pause comes in again? Does it mean that its restarting the code or thats the 10 digits? Please help me with my Check Engine light problem. Hoping to get fast response cuz its gettin dark and I want to fix this b4 tomorrow goin to work. Thanks. Or I threw code 90. Not sure can't tell the difference between the pause if its a 10 digit or its just a pause to restart the cycle again.


[Modified by IgniteTeg, 2:14 AM 8/7/2002]

 

Please anyone help me out here real quick its getting very late....

 

Help pleaseeee..........Its gettin very late.....

 

when you disconnect the battery it clears the memory/code.. but since it lights up again that means the ECU detects a problem...

the long flashes are the 10's digit and the short flashese is the 1's digit... then it will pause and display the next (if you have more than 1 code) and then display the next until its done.. then it will restart the cycle w/ displaying the first code again..

so lets say (i'm pulling random numbers) your trouble codes are 12 and 23:

you will see:

long blink - short blink -short blink (12) *pause* long blink - long blink - short blink - short blink - short blink (23) * P A U S E * then it restarts the cycle...

 

yah i understand taht but how do i fix the code i'm throwing and btw, how can I tell the difference between the pause as to the 10s digits?

 

Damn nobody can help me?

 

hmm since noone is helping you out I'll try to help you out but you don't seem to be understanding what I'm saying I don't know how I can explain it any clearer... U jump the service connector, turn the ignition to on, then start counting.. long flash = 10's digit.. short flash = 1's digit.. then when it pauses.. u know its done w/ the first code.. and pauses then displays the next (if theres more than 1).. if not.. it cycles again w/ the same code/repeats... I don't know how to put it in any other way..

if you just have a code 12.. then it goes

long blink (1) - short blink - short blink (2).. and thats 12.. then it pauses and displays the code for 12 again until you kill the ignition..

if you had say a 12 and a 23 then it goes

long blink (1X) - short blink (X1) - short blink (X1).. (1 tens digit.. 2 1's digit.. so thats 12).. then it pauses and displays
long blink (1) - long blink (1) (so u have 2X) then short blink (1) short blink (1) short blink (1) so u have a 23... then it pauses and diplays the first code...

I dunno how else I can rephrase it.. maybe sum1 else can try...

as for your problem its the CYP sensor... let me try to put this flowchart from the manual into text... it could be your distributor unit..

theres a 10pin connector by your distributor its like to the left of the cap/rotor if your standing by your fender.. let me gank an image from acuraautomotiveparts.net for you



in the image.. its below the #7 O-ring...

anyway disconnect the harness and get your multimeter and check terminals 4 and 8

it configuration goes like this:

1|2|3|4
/ |6|7|8
9 |X| 10

gee I hope the spacing works out.. but basically its a 3 tier/level connector.. on the top is pin #'s 1, 2, 3, 4,
on the 2nd row is pin #'s 6, 7, 8,
and on the 3rd/bottom row is pins 9 and 10

w/ your multimeter at the ohm setting.. Check the resistance between pins 4 & 8 it should be 0.5 to 1.0 k-ohms.. if it isn't replace the distributor ignition unit

now check for continuity to body/ground on both pins 4&8 if there IS continuity replace the distributor ignition unit..

the rest of the flowchart tells you to check the ECU if everything checks out above...

HTH.. it took me a long *** time to find it in the manual (which my friend borrowed) and to type this up..

 

Hey man thanks for your help goin to check it out tomorrow after work. Will it hurt my engine if I drive with the check engine light on? I totally understand the long flashes are 10's digit and the short flashes are 1's digit. But here is the thing I can't really determine the long flash and the short flash. Is it very noticable? How about the pause and the long flash is that noticable too? I don't want to mix the long flash with the pause. So how long are the flashes if its long would it be like Blinkkkkkkk...... Haha lolz don't know how to put it in a better way. As for your diagram thats very helpful but I got lost when you said this:

Thanks for helpin me out. Damn can my distributor fail that fast?? Only got 8000 miles on my 01 gsr wtf!!! Btw, where is a good place to buy the distributor to replace it or fix that problem any good aftermarket? MSD? Should I replace the whole cap and rotor? Wtf damn that thing fail so fast!!! Thanks for anymore help.


[Modified by IgniteTeg, 2:13 AM 8/7/2002]

 

damn I really wish someone else could come here and explain it in other words because I'm lost as to how to explain it to you..

lets say an illuminated blink of like 2 seconds would be considered a long flash (10's digit).. and a 1 or less second blink is a short flash (1's digit).. does that make sense? you should be able to tell the difference between the two... I really don't know how else to word it..sorry.. I think if you stare at it flashing for a while.. you get a hang of the time intervals do u get what I'm saying?

its linke B L I N K (long), BLINK (short) lolz I don't know how else to phrase/word it.. sorry..

heres a link for you too:http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/engcode.php

the / and X just mean its blank or unused I believe..if you look at the number sequence you should understand it.. the pins w/ numbers have wires...

yeah Im saying you should check for resistance on pins 4 & 8 w/ your multimeter..check the resistance and see that its w/in the spec listed above..

check for continuity for pins 4 & 8 also.. there should be no continuity.. continuity determines if there is a break in the circuit or wire...

if you got an 01 and it has 8K.. just take it into the dealer for warranty.. they should fix it for free so you don't have to sit here and worry about fixing it yourself...

damn someone else help him out/explain it to him.. its almost 3AM and my brain isn't working right now


you can also thank my friend whose too damn cheap to buy a manual and took it back (re-borrowed wtf?) after I looked this up for you..


[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 2:53 AM 8/7/2002]

 

This happened to me recently. The rotor screw came loose and tore things up. Threw a code 9. Had to replace the distributor housing. Here's a pic of how that little screw messed things up:



-Rod

 

There's some good info here, but I have one question - If you only have 8000 miles on your car, wouldn't it still be under warranty? Unless something you did caused the problem, let Acura take care of it...

 

Haha scare to bring it in to them cuz i'm moded!! They always be bitchin sayin I change out to aftermarket parts so they won't cover it under warranty cuz they be sayin cuz of your aftermarket parts cause this and that blah blah wtf...

 

Thanks GSRacerbOI hehe I know its hard to explain it in words. Same here I don't even know how to express the blink.. Is it like BLink123 Blink123 Blink hehe lolz. Anyways you guyz have been great help I gotta check into that distributor wiring harness. As for RK thanks for the pic can that screw just get loose like that and throw a cell??

 

As for the screw getting loose....I made the mistake of putting it in while it was dark since my car broke down from a coil failure. Bad idea. Good luck!

-Rod