Quick question...

How do you remove self locking nuts? This is for a b18c1 header install.

 

You can use a combination of open ended 12 mm wrench and/or 12mm socket and rachet with extension. A bit of penetrant wouldnt hurt either.

 

So both at the same time?

I can't get these things to even budge...

 

You just use one or the other but not at the same time... just use which ever is convenient. Use some pb blaster if it's not coming loose.

 

Thanks for your help...I am going to try it again.

 

Ok, so the self locking nuts still won't budge. I am trying to soak it with...



Hopefully after a few soakings it will start to move.

I went to a few shops, and they wanted to charge anywhere from $80 - $150 to work on the nuts and install the header.


Anyway,

How neccessary is it to get new gaskets when installing the new header? Have any of you guys had problems with exhaust leaks when using the old gasket?

 

IMO it would be very foolish to not change the gaskets. Why not change them if you have the header off. It's not like they are very expensive. Have you tried using a breaker bar?

 

I agree, it would be very foolish not to put new gaskets on. The only reason that I asked is because I got two differing opinions, both from "car guys".

The one viewpoint I got was from a custom muffler shop owner who said that I should just bring him the gaskets, header, and miscellaneous parts because the header would possibly need welding because of fitment. I told him I got a really good header, and fitment shouldn't be a problem. So I got that shaky opinion.

Then I got another opinion from a guy that is building a 600hp CRX that my exhaust gasket should be fine.

I was just asking because I was unsure.

No I haven't tried using a breaker bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001 Integra GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick question...

How do you remove self locking nuts? This is for a b18c1 header install.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about the nuts that hold the manifold onto the head?

 

There are seven bolts that go into the engine block. Then there are two threaded studs that stick out at either end of the block. These studs have self locking nuts that attach the end of the header to the engine block.

 

Those actually go into the head, not the block. The best and only good way of taking those nuts off is with heat. It'll get any nut off. I guarantee you won't break the stud if you use this method. First soak the nuts with PB Blaster or WD-40 for a few days. Then get a propane torch and heat up the nut, try not to keep it in one spot and therefore heat the stud. This will expand the nut from the stud. Do it a bit, shoot it with WD-40 (it makes pretty fire ), then heat it again. Then try getting it off. Keep doing this and eventually between the nut expanding and the WD-40 getting there, it will come loose. I've done this on 10-15 year old original engines and it works every time on the exhaust mani nuts. Do not try and use a breaker bar on there because you'll snap the stud and that's just a bitch getting out then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001 Integra GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick question...

How do you remove self locking nuts? This is for a b18c1 header install.</TD></TR></TABLE>

was it really that hard? just use some force. i used no breaker bar and i got mine off easy.

**Quik tip** when tightening, use cloth around the socket area so you wont scratch the header.

 

Yeah, it is kind of hard. These nuts won't budge.

After 60,000 miles, they seem to be stuck on there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001 Integra GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, it would be very foolish not to put new gaskets on. The only reason that I asked is because I got two differing opinions, both from "car guys".

The one viewpoint I got was from a custom muffler shop owner who said that I should just bring him the gaskets, header, and miscellaneous parts because the header would possibly need welding because of fitment. I told him I got a really good header, and fitment shouldn't be a problem. So I got that shaky opinion.

Then I got another opinion from a guy that is building a 600hp CRX that my exhaust gasket should be fine.

I was just asking because I was unsure.

No I haven't tried using a breaker bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I would assume they would be ok to re-use but I would personally rather just buy new ones. I don't think your going to have any leaks or anything.

 

I looked into gaskets today. A new manifold gasket is only about $11 for OEM. Well worht the money.

My question is do you have to put a new gasket at the collector to cat meeting point?

Also does anyone have aany tips for getting the botls for the collector/cat??

I was going to post the same question as i am going to do my install very soon.

 

Finally the bolts are off! Took long enough.

Now I have to buy gaskets and two new locking nuts.

Pictures of the install will be up soon.

Hopefully everything else goes smoothly.

 

Make sure you put anti-seize on the bolts and nuts when you reinstall it. It will make it a whole lot easier to come apart when the time comes.

 

All bolts are off.

Stock exhaust manifold is disconnected from catalytic converter.

Now how do I drop this thing out of the car? What else do I need to remove to make this work?

And...will it be just as hard to put the new header in?

Help please...

 

The stock manifold is 2 pieces, so separate the bottom piece of piping from the top (might need an extension to get up there). The should also be a little reinforcing tab with a bolt on it that attaches to the block, take that out as well. Drop the bottom part down. then you should be able to pull the top part off of the head and pull it out from the top. The install should be easy if you have a 2 piece header, but I am betting you bought a 1 piece 4-1 or 4-2-1, so you need to have a friend help you maneuver it in there. You will probably need to go from the bottom, and have a friend help rotate it and guide it onto the header bolts. If you are having problems, you may have to move around some rad hoses or loosen the bolts on one side of the fan so you can move things out of the way. I would say it's 4 times harder to get the new header in then take the old one out. Lastly, once you have it in position, take the donut gasket off of the old manifold and put it on the new one (it will be sandwiched between the cat and the header flange).

 

Thanks for your help.

I got the whole header to drop out the bottom with some fanagaling.

I got the new header in, much easier than getting the stock manifold out...imo.

Now I am trying to get the bolts to go in on the header/block...but the crappy autozone gasket is not fitting up.

I know I am going to be retarded for asking this, but...is there a frontside and a backside to the gasket that has to go in a certain way? I didn't see any indications if there were.

 

I never had any problems with the self-locking nuts :?

What I had problems with is the bolts at the bottom of the header that connect to the cat. The rest was simplicity.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001 Integra GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for your help.

I got the whole header to drop out the bottom with some fanagaling.

I got the new header in, much easier than getting the stock manifold out...imo.

Now I am trying to get the bolts to go in on the header/block...but the crappy autozone gasket is not fitting up.

I know I am going to be retarded for asking this, but...is there a frontside and a backside to the gasket that has to go in a certain way? I didn't see any indications if there were.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure the gasket is not on backwards.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5spdIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure the gasket is not on backwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha ha.

I checked...there is no front or back, only up or down which is pretty obvious.

Anyway, I just took off the "Autozone" gasket...poorly made gasket.

I put my old stock gasket on, but I am still having the same frustrating fitment issues. This leads me to believe that the holes on the header that match up to the engine block are not perfect...which always seems to be the case with just about any aftermarket part.

Regardless, how would one go about making the gasket fit? Should I find someone that has a drill and slowly drill away at the gasket material that is getting in the way?

Thanks for everyones help.

Thanks again for everyones help.

 

I never had a problem with an OEM gasket, but oh well. You have to align the header perfectly and kind of work it on sometimes. I have a harder time getting the gasket on then the header usually. One time I was doing that and sliced the **** out of my finger with one of those ultra thin metal layers on the gasket. Just be patient, kind of align it on the tips of all the bolts at the same time, then move each side closer to the head slowly. Wear gloves though, blood is bad.

 

Make sure you have the right header for your car. It should fit perfect if you have the right header.