gsr engine
i just rebuilt my gsr and bought new valves, springs, retainers, and i also bought buddy club stage 5 cams. anyone have experience with these??? i start it up and it sounds like the engine skips a little and when you hold the throttle open from 1000 rpm to 4000 rpm and i was wondering if i need to get bigger fuel injectors and a chipped ecu???
its a usdm b18c1 with the following mods...
new valves, springs, and retainers
head was sand blasted and cleaned
buddy club stage 5 cams
stock block that was honed and cleaned
new itr pistons
new rings
everygasket and seal was replaced
new greddy headers
new evo 2 exhaust
act stage 2 clutch
new fidanza 12 lbs flywheel
stock ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel rail
thats about it
new valves, springs, and retainers
head was sand blasted and cleaned
buddy club stage 5 cams
stock block that was honed and cleaned
new itr pistons
new rings
everygasket and seal was replaced
new greddy headers
new evo 2 exhaust
act stage 2 clutch
new fidanza 12 lbs flywheel
stock ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel rail
thats about it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RoB316 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
stock ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel rail
thats about it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats your problem, your ecu is running a stock base map on a car FAR from it
stock ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel rail
thats about it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats your problem, your ecu is running a stock base map on a car FAR from it
Just get it tuned! A fuel rail would be a waste of money and i'd say your stock injectors are probably big enough. If your obdII get a conversion harness and an obdI ecu and have that chipped for whatever you decide to use I.E. hondata, uberdata, chrome etc. than take it to a tuner and problem solved.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get it tuned! A fuel rail would be a waste of money and i'd say your stock injectors are probably big enough. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, at least get bigger injectors. Anything over 80% duty cycle will become inconsistent and stock injectors usually hit 100% cycle at around 200whp which your set-up should be good for. Its always better to go bigger and then get it tuned down then to max out stock injectors.
No, at least get bigger injectors. Anything over 80% duty cycle will become inconsistent and stock injectors usually hit 100% cycle at around 200whp which your set-up should be good for. Its always better to go bigger and then get it tuned down then to max out stock injectors.
you need to convert to obd1 if you want to use a chipped ecu. or spend the big bucks for an aem or other standalone.
a vafc or other piggy back just wont cut it. may i ask why you bought such big cams for such a mild setup?
a vafc or other piggy back just wont cut it. may i ask why you bought such big cams for such a mild setup?
Unless you know someone that made a miracle discovery on how to tune and obdII car.
OBD2x-OBD1 harness and a chipped OBD1 ECU are your first two needs.
Like said ^ cams are a little aggressive. Did you degree them?
You should have used at least P30's and flat faced valves. But I am not here to bash your setup.
Fuel rail is not needed. I got one only because my ITR IM needed something besides a B16 rail so I just got the Golden eagle rail.
For 100.00 get a walbro 255 lph pump.
If you are going to buy injectors just get 370's and be done with it. Don't buy 310's and barely have enough.
Thats all I got right now.
OBD2x-OBD1 harness and a chipped OBD1 ECU are your first two needs.
Like said ^ cams are a little aggressive. Did you degree them?
You should have used at least P30's and flat faced valves. But I am not here to bash your setup.
Fuel rail is not needed. I got one only because my ITR IM needed something besides a B16 rail so I just got the Golden eagle rail.
For 100.00 get a walbro 255 lph pump.
If you are going to buy injectors just get 370's and be done with it. Don't buy 310's and barely have enough.
Thats all I got right now.
my i ask how much you spend to get your head and block done? and did you get it fully rebuilt to stock mode? and if anyone know if thats a good way to really start a fresh milage. im sorry not meaning to steal your thread. i just need to rebuilt my gsr to much milage and burning to much oil.
Your problem is definatly your cams. You totaly have the wrong one. Stage 5 is only for a race prepaired motor that gets rebuilt monthly, and you don't have that. I would get skunk 2 stage 1 or 2 at most for a daily driver rebuild. good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if this dude gets his ecu flashed it's not going to run right. The cams are way to aggressive for the application. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I fifth this comment.
I fifth this comment.


