So I ran the test again with the ignition switch plugged in using a 6v-12v test light. There was no dimming of the test light at all.

My only question is how do you test a ground wire, to be exact the ground wire at the thermostat housing. Since it is only a ground I don't think it would put out any voltages.

 

You are correct, kind of, the ground at the thermostat or any ground for that matter does not "put out voltage", when grounded, however if the ground lead is not grounded properly it will test as 12V+, it does so because there is 12V+ on the "other side" of the load.

So if you probe a ground lead/terminal and the test light turns on, even dimly, the ground is no good.

You can also connect the test lights ground clip to the pos.(+) of the batt, and when you probe a ground lead/terminal the test light must turn on, if not or the light is dim, the ground is bad. 94

 

I tried using my test light the other day on my thermostat ground. There are three wires leading to it and none of them made the light come on. So I'm assuming it's a good ground.

Now I'm really stumped. I check voltages at my fuel Injectors and I was getting enough voltage for every injector. I just don't get how wires can go bad from just sitting.

Where else on the in dash harness and engine bay harness controls the fuel pump? I did a wire tuck and the car ran fine for a month. Just parked it and now this is what I'm stuck with. FML or the car

 

Did you do the wire tuck yourself or a shop? If you had to lengthen any of the wires you want to check them. A friend of mine gave me a real good tip when working at earmark. You need heat shrink sleeves for the wiring and you take one of the two ends and slide a shrink sleeve up one wire. Then you connect and twist them together exposing about 1/2 inch of twined wire( twisted inline) and use a small pen torch and lightly heat the wires and take a solder stick over the heated source. Slide the heat shrink over the area and use a heat gun to shrink the sleeve. If you already know this then I apologize but others that read this might not. If you have not tried replacing the ignition switch you might want to, but if you tested the circuits and tested positive no need.

 

All wires are soldered and heat shrink. I'm pretty good at soldering but may have to go through it again.

 

The PGM-FI Main Relay is powered by three fuses...
1-Fuse 24 - 15A (20A GS-R), [hot in run and start] injector relay coil, [#85 turn on] and fuel pump power, [#30 input to fuel pump relay] it is the black/yellow lead at the relay.
2-Fuse 31 - 15A, [hot at all times] power for injectors, engine valves/solenoids, ECU/ECM signal and fuel pump relays coil, [#30 input for fuel pump relay] yellow/white at relay plug.
3-Fuse 18 - 7.5A, [hot during cranking to start only], back-up power for fuel injector relays coil.

The fuel injector coil is grounded to chassis, black lead at relay plug.
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU/ECM, [ground to fuel pump relays coil], green/blue lead at relay.
The output from the fuel injector relay, [#87] is split to the injectors, some engine valves/solenoids, internally to the fuel pump relays coil and to the ECU/ECM, [IPG1 and IPG2], it is the yellow/black lead at the relay, at the injectors and engine valve/solenoids, it is also two (2) yellow/black leads at the ECU/ECM, [both these leads need 12V+ when ign. switch is in run or start positions.

The yellow/black lead at the relay is the output, [#87] from the fuel pump relay it powers only the fuel pump.

If you have done a wire-tuck, I would start looking there, as mentioned anyplace a connection has been made, [wires lengthened or shortened] is a possible problem.

Electrical connections will oxidize even if just sitting, they may look good even test OK when not under load, that is why undoing cleaning and reconnecting is always the best thing to do. 94

 

I figured it out, it was one of my pins from my in dash harness that came loose. I must of pulled it when re routing my wideband wires. Thanks everyone for all the help and advices. I appreciate it very much.

 

What pin, for what and where?
Just in case someone else has the problem. 94

 

I'll go back and check to see if I remember which pin and where.

 

Did you ever figure out your issue cause I'm having the same problem right now in my k24 swapped 00 hatch... :/

 

It was loose wires. Check your ecu fuse and the ecu itself. What have you tested so far?

 

do you remember what wire was loose?

 

No I don't but I would just check all of them

 

I have a 92 GSR that had a bad engine , sat for 2 years before I rebuilt a B18 short block , Ls Vtec.
Got it all together , and initially it started and ran , and then progressively had problems getting it to run.
Same as the others have posted, check engine light on continuously, tho occasionally it would go out and the car would start.
idle for 30 minutes no problem, drive it down the road and after 10-12 miles shut off.
Sit 10-15 minutes and it would re-start.
Ran a diagnostics on the ignition and everything was good .
Ran diagnostics on the fuel system and I was not getting current to the fuel pump.
checked all wiring from the pump back to the ECU and the harness was good, and 12 volts to the pump activated the pump.
Now the pump harness at the pump has 3 wires , which I don't remember the colors of them , but I do believe one is black (ground), yellow (12), can't remember color but is was at times glowing very dim.
I believe this is the signal return lead.
My ECU is a P61 and it had been chipped in 1992 with a socket and chip by Dinan Performance.
Dinan no longer does Honda performance , they do BMW's now.
So I believe the ECU is not able to pull a ground signal to the pump .
I have plugged an ECU from an Accord just to test my theory , and the car starts every time , Check engine light goes out after 2 seconds every time .

Is this problem a known occurrence, and is there a chance that some one here has repaired one of these.
I have a friend that is into the Honda scene , builds performance swaps, turbo systems , Vtec swaps, and tunes with Neptune .
His recommendation is, short of buying another p61, is to use a p28 and using the socket and chip method to tune this ECU to work on my car.
As I understand it only 2 domestic models use the appropriate ECU , my 92-3 GSR and Delsol .
Is the circuitry map available for the p61 so that I could repair that circuit?
I am very good at electronics repair if I can find the schematics , I can get any of the parts from Digi if it is a bad cap, or transistor , diode etc.
Thank you for reading .
Ashley

 

First thing you should do is plug in your ecu into another car to determine if it's bad. Running any chipped obd1 ecu is the samething. Once they are chipped they do not run off the stock program anymore.

You can look for ecu components on PGMFI.org or check on www.Xenocron.com

They can test your ecu and determine if it's faulty or not.

 

Thank you mouab18c1