lol. guess shoulda ran straight power and ground to it. like i'd mentioned. woulda determined the pump was good. my bad though. i did say pump was bad haha. oh well, at least you didn't have to drop the tank lol.

with the key in II position, dash lights illuminate?

 

Nope with Key in ON position the dash lights remain the same as it's been doing. Funny thing is with the yellow/green to yellow/white jumped the Walbro 255 pump didn't even prime. But with the OEM pump it primed until I tooked the jumper off.

 

so the dash lights don't illuminate with the key in the II position?

 

Nope

 

likely a problem with the ign. switch then

 

I'm not sure how that would affect it. Maybe my power wire is bad. Waiting for fcm to reply

 

well, you're basically bypassing the switch by jumping yel/wht and yel/grn. pump runs when you bypass the switch. dash lights don't illuminate in run.
sounds likely to me. it is kinda shotgun though.
fcm will run you through the appropriate pin point test i'm sure

 

and oh, if you think the power lead is bad, you could always test resistance. just sayin
but then, you read 11.8v at the pump power lead when jumped. that sounds about right, as i would think there would be a slight voltage drop across the lead by the time it reaches the pump. either that or battery voltage may have been a bit low when you tested

 

reading over again, your power lead isn't bad because when jumped, the pump runs. with the walbro it didn't. so pump must have actually been bad anyways. now i don't feel so bad for recommending to replace the pump without supplying a ground to it first to test. although that was a poor recommendation on my part. was only trying to help. must be 2 issues here. but too many heads can be a bad thing.
i'll stay out of this for the duration

 

It's fine, I appreciate all the help.

 

Update with stock pump back in

1)yellow/white 11.3v
2)yellow/black 11.2v
3)blue/white 7.4v
4)direct ground from black lead made no difference
5)yellow/green no power

 

Any more input?

 

Alright, so looked up testing procedures for main relay and ignition switch.
So far we know the pump is good, you have good ground, power lead has continuity.
So from what I suspect as the ignition switch, let's check ig1 blk/yel lead at the main relay connector.
With key in II position, measure voltage at pin 5 blk/yel lead of the relay connector. Should be battery voltage. If not, its open circuit. So either ignition switch or wiring between.

 

Since you have Neptune, you can check the "starter signal" by viewing the values in the data menu.
This can help diagnose at least that portion of the switch...
If you have a powerprobe or a multimeter, its pretty quick to check the wires for the ign switch.
Just backprobe the connector and check/record each wire in different key positions. Youll be able to figure out whats what...

 

Or we can just test the switch directly.
Remove the lower dash cover and knee bolster to gain access to the switches 7 and 5 pin connectors.
Disconnect them.
Take your multimeter and set it to read resistance (omega symbol). Range it to 200ohms setting. Be sure that the probes are connected in their appropriate sockets. Black in the comm and red in the ohms. Without touching the metal of the probes with your fingers, touch the probes together. You should get 0 ohms resistance. If you do, let's move along.
From the switch side of the harness, and key in I position, measure resistance between the wht/blk pin of the 5 pin connector and the wht pin of the 7 pin connector. Should be continuity (0 ohms).
With the key in the II position, measure resistance between wht/blk of 5 pin connector and wht of 7 pin. Should be continuity.
Measure between yel of 5 pin and blk/yel of 5 pin. Should be continuity.
Measure between all 4 of those pins. Should be continuity between all of them.
With key in start position, measure between wht of 7 pin and blk/yel of 5 pin. Should be continuity.
Measure between both of those two and blk/wht of 7 pin. Should be continuity between all of them.
If there is resistance between any of those pins listed, replace switch.

 

Thanks for help. I will do this when I don't work in a few days.

 

No worries. If these don't pinpoint the problem, I've got the procedure for testing wiring between the PCM and relay and PCM itself. But we'll deal with that if the time comes. We'll get it solved, don't worry

Oh and just in case you wanted to know exactly which wires you are testing for continuity here:
7 pin connector:
Blk/wht-starter solenoid
Wht-battery

5 pin connector:
Blk/yel-ign1
Yel-ign2
Wht/blk-accessory

 

I've had a solid CEL one time and it ended up being a dead ECU. GL!

 

He tried another ecu already

 

Yes I have tried another ECU already along with a different fuel pump and main relay. Now it's either the ignition switch or stupid wires.

And thanks El for all the helpful responses. Just sucks that I can't work on it til Monday when I don't have to work.

 

Hey no worries. I've got the procedures for testing pretty much the entire circuit all printed. We're gonna get this thing sorted out.
Keep us posted

 

Alright so I finally had an hour to spare today. Went out to run some test but ran into a problem. I couldn't figure out which plugs you were talking about.

Here are some pics of what I could only find that might of been what you were referring to but the wires did not match up at all.

 

If your looking for the ign switch connector, its the one pictured that runs below the steering column. In the pic, it has the brown harness clip on holder thingy and about 6" below the brown clip, it looks like it has a piece of blue tape going around the harness...

In the pic, its the harness that is "touching" your clutch pedal...Follow it up and it goes to the ignition switch. Follow it down, and it should connect into a "junction box" (IIRC)

In the background, is that an aftermarket alarm system you have installed???
If so, that may need to be looked at as well...
Good luck, your almost there!

 

I believe the ones you have there are correct. But Disconnect those 7 and 5 pin connectors from behind the lower dash cover instead. Itll be easier to probe from there

 

I followed the harness from the ignition switch that you pointed out in my picture and it did connect to a brown clip but it only had 4 wires or so. I was just thinking that when he stated 7 pin connector or 5 pin connector that it would also have 7 or 5 wires going to it as well.

And yes that is a Viper alarm that I had installed. It still works and everything but doesn't hurt to check as well.